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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 28, 2013 17:50:06 GMT -5
I would say order a new carb with adjustability
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 28, 2013 17:41:10 GMT -5
Yeah, carb is the way to go. Aside from that, order up a new battery and oil that kickstarter good. Just be aware that the kickstarter is only intended for emergency use should the battery be dead or something.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 28, 2013 16:39:50 GMT -5
DX get the 200...you'll be happier
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 26, 2013 19:19:15 GMT -5
The one thing you have to be sure of is ordering a rim with the correct braking system. The ire size is the only other concern is the inner diameter for drum brakes, for a 50CC the shoes may be smaller.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 26, 2013 19:14:37 GMT -5
DX Go ahead and order your belt size and make sure you have a tool set with you to pull off the CVT housing and hopefully you're close enough to a garage that has an impact wrench for the variator nut.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 26, 2013 19:09:39 GMT -5
These new EPA carbs are garbage at best. I had one on my peacesports Dash 150 and after I took off the EGR crap, it ran like junk also After I bought a new standard CVK type carb with adjustments and was able to up-jet the main, my ride is a lot better. I still have some small work to do, like reduce the roller weights just a bit and maybe a new contra spring. As it sits right now I am seeing high 60's for speeds on flats, downhill I havent bothered to look but I would think around 70.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 25, 2013 19:17:22 GMT -5
The recommended Valve adjust is at PDI, 500, 1500, 3000, 4500, 6000, 8000, 11000. and so on. according to most GY6 manuals. That's the technical side of it, the reality is most people don't check until there's an issue, which is fine unless you've cracked a stem.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 25, 2013 19:09:01 GMT -5
usually, you want to keep the contra spring matched up with the clutch springs, so for instance Red with Red, Yellow with Yellow etc..... Meaning that there's a consistent match with the clutch engaging at the exact RPM you want it to. That said, you can mix and match but that requires playing around with the roller weights to get the exact result you're looking for. It can be confusing, you either can use the front end of the CVT (the variator and the roller weights) or the back end (the clutch, springs or transmission gears). It all depends on your desired result.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 25, 2013 19:00:15 GMT -5
With a free flow air filter I should lean it out? Well, ok not made as a free flow but getting that performance out of the modded stock air filter. I'm not sure what the stock pilot is but either way it's running ok now. just like i said, slight hesitation when accelerating then pickup like crazy and ZOOOOOM!!!
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 22, 2013 0:01:30 GMT -5
Here's a few things to remember before just telling someone to go buy a new scoot with larger displacement. It is NOT always true that moe displacement means a faster bike. My point: a 200cc scooter that weighs in at 350lbs vs. a 150cc that weighs in at 200lbs. assuming the ride is the same weight on both, they might only see a slight difference in top end on the 200. The real gain for them would be takeoff power though and no troubles with hilly terrain. So if you have for instance a 150, I'd BBK it out to 190 or 200cc (which I'm already considering with mine). That and some CVT tuning and yes, upjetting the carb to say a #135 main and a #38 pilot would be the best investment. Lighter bike, bigger displacement = Top end AND power
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 21, 2013 23:50:35 GMT -5
Well gang, leave to me. I went to tear down the top end of the carb to reset the needle bac to where I had it only to discover a vacuum line was off. Instantly the light bulb went off over my head. Hmmm, could THAT little oversight be my issue?..... YES!!! Simply put I got that back on where it was supposed to go and the scooter came to life! The only difference is now it sorta hesitates before picking up and taking off like crazy! Top end is only marginally better, maybe 1-3 MPH at best but still great anyway. On hills it really pulls and I don't feel any kind of worry when I approach even the steeper hills in town. It even can accelerate on an incline so no more issues there (not that were before but this was a noticeable improvement).
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 19, 2013 7:16:19 GMT -5
Damn, I woke up this morning to 6" of friggin snow!!! That said, scootering is out for a few days....
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 19, 2013 7:03:27 GMT -5
Using a triangle pattern on the rings, align the oil ring with back of the head align the 2 other rings 120* apart from that to avert blow-by.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 22:48:24 GMT -5
There's plenty to do BEFORE even attempting a start on a long sitting scooter, FIRST and foremost is the OIL, both gear and engine oil should be at minimum checked and recommended changed. Second, pull that carb off as mentioned and give it a good cleaning followed up by (again as mentioned) draining the fuel tank and replacing with new. Third is indeed the battery, a new one is way better than trying to live with something at best half dead. Do a standard PDI as well before riding it, rust, corrosion, and neglect can have a funny way of knocking things loose, as can rodents! So check those wires carefully. I hope that get's you fired up, Yes it's about 3 hours of work but better to put it in now rather than on the side of the road stranded.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 18:43:56 GMT -5
Colder air is more dense, thus it'll run a little leaner on cooler days, turn your A/F screw counter clockwise 1/4 +rotation on these days, warmer turn in clockwise 1/4 turn
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