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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 18:39:11 GMT -5
Sorry alleyoop for the confusion it's my thread with the needle raising. As for the electric starter I'd check continuity of the switch and see to it the starter motor is catching the starter gear, If not you'll need to replace it.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 18:32:36 GMT -5
wutzthedeal, yes I have tried adjusting and no results worth mentioning, It just sounds like I went the wrong way on the needle and will correct it after yet another friggin winter storm hits us tonight!!!
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 18:01:52 GMT -5
What I did was put the clip lower 1 slot (raising the needle)to enrich, could it be I was already rich and went too far?
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 17:59:20 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply, I have tried that, I'm usually the one posting a lot of the info but this one has me miffed
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 17:53:45 GMT -5
First off, let's get that electric start working. The kick-starter is mainly there for a dead battery start once in a great while, not to be a daily user thing. They're like everything else on these chinese scoots and that's usually flimsy at best. OK, maybe that's being a bit harsh but hey, it is frustrating. As for the carb issue, well... what I would do is be sure the new carb is clean and clear of any dirt. You did mention you're using the jets out of your old 1...why? IMHO Unless they're an upjet and the carb is identical I would go with the ones that came with the new carb.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 17:42:25 GMT -5
I took my scooter out today after finally fixing the exhaust issue I had (see thread "Exhaust stud broke...") and it performed great, seeing as I read often that raising the needle can help at top end. Needless to say I got to thinking and took the top end of the carb down, reset the needle pin just 1 step raising it. I was hoping for better top end performance but that didn't happen, in fact it slowed me down! It isn't really bogging but it's slow to takeoff and doesn't get to top end at all, should I drop the needle 2 notches to see whether that will bring it to life?
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 15:37:58 GMT -5
It also wouldn't hurt before you go changing the jet to bring the needle up 1 notch give that a shot as well as re adjusting the A/F screw
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 18, 2013 15:33:20 GMT -5
DX either 2T or 4T that's what they look like but the carb itself might look different
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 17, 2013 21:25:48 GMT -5
Also check your brake light switches and whether or not you have a sidestand kill safety. If you can't get the brake light to trigger it won't respond at all. When you turn the key does the fuel gauge go up? Do you get any dashboard display? Here's another thing if it is turning over, check the CDI where you plug it in. That socket tends to retain moisture and it blew out 2 high performance CDIs I had installed.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 17, 2013 21:15:05 GMT -5
Maybe I can offer some scientific as well as personal input which may guide you better. First and foremost that was left unmentioned is that a free flow or open exhaust DOES tend to run hotter simply because of the amount of extra flow from the valve and not much to disperse the heat like a muffler would. You also cut it down some so you removed material which would help it stay cooler. IMHO you might want to look into adding a burn guard. As for the spring.....you should match it up with yellow clutch springs as well that might help as it'll engage the clutch faster and stronger giving you more grunt. If you are worried about too high of RPMs go with 14g rollers instead of 13 OR you can do a 13 14 combo being sure to use 1 13 and 1 14 in each trimester of the variator. What that does (aside from buying yet another set of 13.5s) is split the difference or you may decide to go with all 14s. That depends on how much takeoff power you want to sacrifice or not but being as we're talking about a total of 6g that can make a huge difference so think about it. I hope that helps you somewhat.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 15, 2013 18:02:29 GMT -5
I'll follow up with asking whether or not you're getting any fuel with the new petcock AND what the condition of your vacuum lines are in? Having no spark is only half of it, no fuel and no fire.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 15, 2013 17:56:11 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm with gatekeeper here. the battery most likely is either weak or shot. Aside from that I'd look at your vacuum lines to your petcock and carb. Make sure you have no leaks and if all of that is ok and you can get it started, let it warm up and do an A/F adjustment.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 15, 2013 17:48:09 GMT -5
I wouldn't ride without some kind of noise reduction. The main thing is to have something to add back pressure to keep the valves from burning out. free flow exhausts are great for racers but not for daily driving. The reason is simple, racers want the top end and that stresses the entire engine thus having an open exhaust wouldn't do anything but help in tbis case but otherwise not so good for your commute to work.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 15, 2013 17:40:21 GMT -5
In my case there's enough of the stud sticking out that I can use vice grips and turn it out. In some cases though you might need a grab-it tool and a drill. In other cases you may end up replacing the head.
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Post by scootercapecod on Mar 15, 2013 17:36:20 GMT -5
Terrilee has it right on the money. As air temperature changes, so does the fuel/air ratio. Just remember to take your scoot out first for a warm up ride and then do your adjustment as needed.
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