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Post by woowilly on Apr 6, 2013 11:25:10 GMT -5
I've resurected several old engines that have been sitting unused for years with gas left in 'em at work. Usually the carb jets are restricted or plugged by the old gas varnish/tar like gunk or dirt.
The routine is: Clean carb with carb cleaner, install a new fuel filter, get it started, readjust mixture screw 'till it starts and runs well. Then the next time I try to start it a few days or a week later, repeat the above due to the carb getting plugged up by the crud in the gas tank the new gas worked loose that made it's way to the carb...
eventually the injector/valve cleaners in mordern gas cleans it up to the point it stabilizes provided it's run some every week or so and fresh gas keeps being run through it.
You might get by with just adjusting the mixture screw, if it's set slighty lean it'll be hard to start, if slightly rich, it'll start easily but foul the sparkplug at idle over time and be sputtering rich at idle.
Usually the best mixture screw setting is a compromise for plug fouling, performance and ease of starting. there are several videos you can find on youtube with Google on how to set the mixture screw. I would just screw it in until it lightly bottoms out, make a note the number of turns it took, use that for a baseline setting, then open it back to that setting plus a 1/4 turn and try it, then repeat going a 1/4 turn more.each time. there's a possibility you may have to go leaner from the baseline setting by screwing in the mixture screw, but I think you'll find the baseline setting is too lean not rich.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 3, 2013 0:11:36 GMT -5
opening the mixture screw will cut down on the de-accel popping.
Just don't open it so far it causes plug fouling at idle or performance loss.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 3, 2013 0:00:23 GMT -5
You should be able to press the stem out after grinding through the weld on the bottom. ( Harleys have C-clips instead of a weld as a safety measure for the press fit.) You may need to apply heat to the outer piece. I used two pipe clamps and a steel block between them to press out the stem on my harley tree. The end of the tube is tyically machined for an interference fit the bearing race and to provide a stop to keep the race from sliding towards the center of the tube , leave those alone and just cut out a section from the middle of the tube and reweld to shorten it. ( bicycle type neck races and flanged races are designed for use with plain straight tubes.)
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Post by woowilly on Apr 2, 2013 23:24:58 GMT -5
I have the same scooter. ( different importer, different name... ) totally stock my top speed was 50 mph. With only moderate speed cruising around town I was getting 60-70 miles per gallon with my 170 pounds. For a near full throttle run to work 40 miles away going 45-50mph with the 1.1 gallon tank full starting off, I wasn't brave enough to try the final 8 miles after the last gas station with the gauge showing empty and less than an inch of gas left in the tank... It didn't last a week pushing it that hard before problems start showing up, during the 2nd week for the last mile I was on the side of the road with a non-running scooter. Now that I've broke and repaired to better than original what's gonna bad easily it might do better if I need to use it to get to work again. I don't baby my scooter when close to the house other than limiting going over 50 mph to under 1/2 mile at a time and limiting full throttle cruising to less than 5-10 seconds, nothing else has broke lately.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 1, 2013 20:49:07 GMT -5
there are businesses that will get you a title for a fee. heres one place: www.its-titles.com/there are others too. |
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Post by woowilly on Mar 31, 2013 21:36:01 GMT -5
a while back I bought a dead gy6 150cc scooter with 10 inch rims, It ran after I repaired the open ground problem.
the top end had a lean surge, going to a # 112.5 main jet fixed that. ( just a hair rich though.)
hard to start, backfired out carb when the throttle was opened when it didn't just die.
moving needle clip to raise needle and opening mixture screw to 3 turns out helped.
( No rpm drop off when the mixture screw was opened past the peak rpm indicated slow jet was too small.)
going to a # 38 slow jet gave a sweet spot at about 2-1/2 turns out.
I set it to 2-3/4 to be just slightly rich for easy starts and to make it easier to get off idle with no accelerator pump.
Then I gutted the muffler. ( all else is stock )
that made it hard to start when cold, and die if the throttle was snapped open, even when warmed up.
I went to readjust the mixture screw and found 2-3/4 turns was right at where it was too far closed,
and no rpm drop off once past the rpm peak like I need an even bigger slow jet.
I set it at 4 turns out for now. Starts easier, doesn't die getting off idle, less deaccel popping out the muffler.
Main jet size requirement seems pretty much unaffected.
I've read is that going to a # 38 slow jet when doing just filter & muffler performance upgrades isn't really needed.
Has anyone else had to go bigger than a # 38 slow jet for just a muffler mod?
( or for any other reason? )
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Post by woowilly on Mar 31, 2013 20:41:03 GMT -5
Ignore the posting about the voltage not being regulated if there's no battery, the 5-pin regulators' lead that senses battery voltage is perfectly capable of sensing the voltage output from the regulator if it is connected. Put an oscillascope on the battery lead and see for yourself if you want... For running without a battery, just place a Capacitor across the battery leads. What value? It's just basic electronic math... As a starting point I would go with: 8 pulses @ 1k rpm ( single phase stator & 8 pole flywheel ) gives a stator ulse every 7.5 milli Secs. then calculate RC time constant. one tenth of the time constant time will leave approx  % of the voltage on the cap. so...we want a single rc time constant to be 10 times stator pulse spacing time. R is load resistance. E=IR so I'll use 12 volts and assume a 2 amp load. 12/2 = 6 ohms 6 ohms x C = 75 millisecs 0.075 / 6 = C 0.0125 = C C = 12.5 micro Farads this calculation is done assuming a square wave charge pulse with a pulse time of 1/infinity. ( doing so makes the calculated capacitor value come out just slightly oversize..) I'll include the charge sine wave in the calculation when someone pays me enough to make me want to do the calculus and trig... I would put a capacitor of at least 10,000 microfarads across the battery terminals if you want to run without a battery. ( I calculated cap value for idle, at higher rpm less is required, more gives less voltage ripple at all rpm though. ) Adding a capacitor is closer to a steady DC voltage as the cap provides some voltage after the scr in the regulator shorts the stator windings once the threashold voltage is reached. ( the volltage starts dropping as the capacitor discharges while providing voltage to the loads, but that's way better than having zero voltage instantly after the SCR in the regulator shorts the stator until the zero crossing of the sinewave to limit voltage.) Running without a battery or capacitor across the battery terminals gives regulated pulsating DC for everything that was designed for steady DC. Bat-Pac is a nice marketing name. Way overpriced for what it actually is though... ( all the notes about it's use also apply to using a generic electrolytic capacitor instead of a battery. ) |
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Post by woowilly on Mar 31, 2013 16:07:48 GMT -5
when I bought my scooter, it turned out the seller wasn't the owner according to the title, and I couldn't locate the previous owner, which DPS showed to be the owner. I got it titled, but it cost about an additional $100 to go through getting a bonded title after several trips between the tax assessors' office and the DPS office to sort out what I needed then to get it all done in the order required.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 31, 2013 15:51:34 GMT -5
A 125cc or bigger engine that spends most of it's time lightly to moderately loaded will hold up far better than a 50cc that's run maxed out most of the time.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 28, 2013 10:39:23 GMT -5
Your valve pockets in the piston need to have a radius cut on the edges.
Sharp edges cause preignition problems then they start glowing.
A slight improvement would have been to cut the squish band area to an angle pointing towards the sparkplug. ( and cut a matching angle on the head if it's not already there. ) Nowhere near as much gain as simply having piston and head squish band angles match and having the proper clearance though.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 28, 2013 0:49:40 GMT -5
There's quite a bit of conversion going on in both types of CDI when they're use...
A DC CDI can operate without a battery connected, the 470 uF capacitor on the dc-dc converter input will get a pulse of 12 volts from the regulator as the stator magnets go 'round. ( gotta spin 'em 'round fairly fast though.) this will allow the DC-DC converter to run enough to charge the high voltage capacitor in the cdi and the 12v pulse will also put enough of a charge on the filter capacitor on the 5 volt supply line in the CDI for operating the low voltage CDI stuff. ( My harley runs with no battery or battery eliminator, it has a DC CDI. the spark is weak and under load causes one cylinder to misfire though. However it was good enough to limp home and the next day replace the battery that developed a totally open cell.)
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Post by woowilly on Mar 27, 2013 22:52:18 GMT -5
Truely unique. Preserve it!!!! I would weld up a bolt in adapter that bolts in and put in a modern engine & drivetrain & ride it. Then rebuild the old engine to stock to put back in when it comes time to sell it. Very few people have an interest in frankenstein bikes. Runinng and all stock bikes are easy to sell to collectors. (non-stock parts for engine internal parts that needed to be replaced help more than hurt selling price. )
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Post by woowilly on Mar 27, 2013 0:41:19 GMT -5
I like the ZNEN V9 ZN150T-F except for it's having front turn signals sticking out on stalks.
I'de replace the headlight/handlebar plastic housing with one from a Roketa Sicily which has integral turn signals. ( Mine's the Tank version of the Sicily)
I'm sure 12 inch wheels would be better for more top speed and better ride over rough areas than 10 inch'ers.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 25, 2013 23:34:15 GMT -5
Something else, I just remembered:
a light contra spring with light roller will be more affected by engine torque when in mid to upper ranges on the pulleys and you roll open the throttle, it'll effectively downshift and let the rpms come up a bit. ( better for underpowered small engines, and fun rolling wheelies on bigger engines .) This setup has light belt tension. watch for a belt slippage problems
A heavy contra spring with heavy rollers is less affected by engine torque and is more user friendly on bigger engines and gives more sluggish performance on underpowered engines. This setup has higher belt tension and belt wear from the tension.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 25, 2013 23:02:06 GMT -5
Looks like there's lots of misinformation. the clutch springs holding the shoes only control what rpm you start to move at.( and the rpm the clutch disengages when slowing down.) weak springs engage at low rpm and you take off slow at first from a stop when throttle slammed open. ( real user friendly, and can cruise at a real slow speed. )
Stiffer springs allow the engine to rev higher before engaging, with wheelies, tire spin, faster take off from a stop and other fun when the throttle is slammed open.
( they're not for people who want to go putting around slow...)
The contra spring ( or torque spring ) in conjuction with the variator weights determine pulley gear ratio at a given rpm. any contra spring can be made to act similar to any other with the appropriate variactor weights and vice versa.
( to do so however, the heavier rollers wouldn't fit physically, and the lightest would have durability problems from being so thin. )
There is only a limited selection of contra springs with drastically different spring rates because that's the coarse adjustment, and variactor weights are in fine steps in weight to fine tune it with. The extreems in variactor weight choices overlap the opposing extreems when you go up or down with the contra spring stiffness choice.
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% of the voltage on the cap.