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Gas lines
by: woowilly - Mar 25, 2013 21:57:33 GMT -5
Post by woowilly on Mar 25, 2013 21:57:33 GMT -5
Sounds like you have a leak between the float needle and seat.
My experience has always been it's either a speck of dirt or something between 'em or one or both worn out.
You're correct on the lines, one is the vaccum line to open the petcock ( it's on the bottom of the petcock centered over the diaphram), the other one is the gas line. ( it's on the side of the petcock by the side of the diaphram.)
I always do the following before putting a carb back on after having it apart:
With it upright blow though the fuel line air should go in, this verifies the float needle is open with float down, then turn the carb upside down and blow through the fuel line again, the float needle should block the air this time, this verifies the float needle will block flow when it's up.
the hose on the bottom of the float bowl is either the float bowl overflow line, or the float bowl drain line.
While sorting out what to do for my carb, I found there are Keihin, OKO, counterfeit Keihin, counterfeit OKO, and Unmarked Chinese carbs. ( all CVK type carbs )
some have float bowl overflow tubes ( gas runs out it if the float needle leaks with the float up ),
some have float bowl drain tubes with the drainplug screw in the end of the hose, some have no drain tube, only a float bowl drainscrew in the float bowl.
some have no overflow tube and no float bowl drain screw.
I haven't seen one yet with with a overflow tube and a float bown drain screw in the body that drains the float bowl out the overflow tube when it's unscrewed part way, but that's a possibility.
EPA carbs generally don't have a always an overflow/vent tube that's always open to the atmosphere, they typically vent the float bowl into the carb before the venturi to reduce raw gas vapor getting dumped into the atmosphere.
( venting the carb float bowl to a charcol canister was sometimes done on cars before fuel injection got rid of that nightmare of vaccum hoses it took to get carbed car engines to meet EPA requirements.)
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Post by woowilly on Mar 24, 2013 21:26:13 GMT -5
to keep from rounding off the corners on extreemly tight nuts with an impact wrench always use a 6 point socket not a 12 point socket. Also don't be afraid to tap a slightly tight fitting SAE socket down on a metric nut or bolt. Just wiggle the socket off once it breaks free then switch to a looser fitting metric one.
Switching from 12g to 10g rollers should have helped acceleration by keeping engine rpm a little higher as the variator transitions from low to high gearing. If it hurt top end, you need more engine power at higher rpm to spin the engine faster which'll force the variator all the way out to the highest gear ratio. You're proably running about the same engine rpm at top speed as before but geared lower now.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 24, 2013 12:45:20 GMT -5
I left out part of what I was thinking....
The increase in Amps really ups the wire losses if undersized wire is used
in the battery charge wire when switching to having the headlight wired to the battery. Another Amp or so more if going to a higher wattage headlight.
The headlight load may cause battery voltage to drop at low rpm due to a now undersized battery charge wire, Going to a larger battery charge wire will help. Hopefully you'll have enough stator output at low rpm after switching to a fullwave rectifier to have a constant brightness headlight reguardless of rpm.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 24, 2013 12:05:11 GMT -5
You have it wired correct.
It's probably best to solder it to the wires at the regulator plug then cover the connection with liquid tape or something similar.
There is no drain on battery to consider. it might be a few micro-Amps due to reverse bias leakage, which is nothing compared to the battery sefl discharge rate. D1 is reverse biased, Q1 base-collector junction is reverse biased. both D1 and Q1 will draw current only if battery voltage goes over the zener diode D1 reverse bias breakdown voltage. ( the regulation point of the chargeing system is higher than nominal battery voltage remember...)
With the 100 ohm resistor installed, you have may have a slight undervoltage
at the battery while charging due to sensing the voltage at the regulator, but that's only when it's protecting you from an overvoltage condition due to a non-connected remote voltage sense wire. ( it broke, came unplugged or whatever.)
Far better to maybe have to kick start it to get home than blow all the lights and ruin the battery if the remote sense wire lost connection.
Fortunately (?), mine has an AC headlight setup and AC CDI, with battery voltage sense for the regulator inside the regulator.
A larger wire from the stator coils to the regulator and from the regulator to the battery wouldn't hurt. Not needed unless you have a rather heavy load demand.
The increase in Amps really ups the wire losses if undersized wire is used.
power lost in the wire is Amps squared times the wires' resistance.
( I^2 * R )
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 16:56:17 GMT -5
the remote sense 5 wire regulator setup in use has a design flaw.
when you turn the key off, the regulator switchs to max possible output to the battery and the lights while the engine is still spinning the stator still generates power which is no longer regulated in any way. There should be a 100 ohm resistor between the black sense wire and the red battery charge wire at the regulator.
(actually it should be inside the regulator, but....somewhere in china someone went: if silly end owner unplugs sense wire on a running scooter or starts scooter with it off playing scooter mechanic he deserves burned up parts, I can cut manufacturing costs by 3 cents per scooter by deleting this overvoltage safeguard resistor and get a nice bonus.......)
If the black wire goes open at the switch due to worn out contacts or corrosion,breaks or connectors pull apart while the engine is running, It''l blow out all the lights and boil the battery electrolite away and kill the battery.
the 4 pin regulator is the exact same except it has the sense lead tied to the battery lead inside the regulator. the 5 pin regulator uses remote voltage sense to eliminate the voltage drop on the undersized (another 3 cents per scooter saved...) charge wire to the battery on scooters with high electric loads which are tied to the battery . ( a 10 amp load from headlight on battery, electric fuel pump, dc-cdi, fuel injection electronics could result in 13 volts at regulator 2 volts dropped in charge wire, 11 volts remaining at battery which would run down the battery if remote battery voltage sense wasn't used)
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 15:37:31 GMT -5
multi grade oil was created to make it easier to spin the engine fast enough to start it with the starter when real cold. for cold climates run 5-XX or 10-XX multigrade oil and get the biggest battery you can fit in. richening up the idle for winter helps it start easier in really cold weather too. Just gotta remember not to let it sit idling too long or it'll foul out the plug. ( and remember to readjust carb idle mixture back once the cold season is over. )
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 15:20:17 GMT -5
I've read stock is typically 105 or 108. my original main jet was unmarked.
and caused it to die when the throttle was even slowly opened when cold, when warm it backfired through carb and/or occasionally died getting off idle and rpm went up and down due to the lean surgeing at part throttle with the rear wheel off the ground as it struggled to rev up. ( I didn't even try riding it since it ran so bad and I know from experience the effects of lean mixtures are even worse under load. )
I went to 112.5 with all else stock. 110 was a hair lean, 112.5 was a hair rich, 115 was sloppy rich. After gutting my muffler to remove the restriction it acts a hair lean getting off idle 'till it warms up. ( I haven't had time to play with the carb since de-restricting my muffler. sparklug readings looks right after a high speed run and after letting it idle 15 minutes, no idle fouling that'll make it hard to restart after extended idling before shutdown, so I'm pretty close )
My suggestion would be to get a 112.5, 115, and 117.5 and try the 115 first. then the others. if the 112.5 or 117.5 is better , go buy the next size in the direction you went and try that. once you figure out where too rich and too lean is, install the one in the middle. If two in the middle, go with the richer one.
I also went to a 38 idle jet which made the mixture screw work like it should.
2 turns out is was best, 1/2 turn less caused rpm drop due to too lean, 1/2 turn more caused rpm drop due to too rich.
( before changing it, I could open the idle mixture screw 'till it fell out without ever getting too rich at idle which made it impossible to find the best spot to set it. )
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 12:21:10 GMT -5
while welding it back together, I wouldn't reccomend flux core wire on a mig, it's much more aggressive & deeper penetrating than plain wire with co2/argon sheilding. and will cause more melt though problems. It'll work, It'll just take more time to get it welded up to where it's good.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 11:38:33 GMT -5
I got a nice deeper sounding rumble at idle, reasonable sounding at part throttle,
( it doen't sound like a sewing machine anymore..), slightly loud at full throttle high rpm without the way to loud high pitch obnoxious sounds of a straight pipe. It's just loud enough for those cars next to me to hear me and know I'm there now while cruising along at 40-50..
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 1:18:48 GMT -5
I did the same except I left mine long. ( for a deeper tone )
Have fun welding the chinese crappy steel shell.
It's almost like trying to weld thin aluminum sheet.
Bolt the header pipe to the head, the shell to it's mounts, and tack 'em together in 3 or 4 spots to ensure the mount points will align after weldibg.
Probably best to use Tig or oxy/actalene with a small welding tip.
I used mig with 0.023 solid wire and CO2/argon sheilding and the lowest setting possible which resulted in most of my time being spent rewelding after grinding down leaking areas and filling in melt throughs.
( lightly pressurize it with a shop vac air outlet or compressor and apply soapy water to find the leaks in the welds. )
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Post by woowilly on Mar 22, 2013 0:21:23 GMT -5
dark ages of dos on internet?
That shows how young someone is....
Early dos didn't have the capability due to hardware limitations.
Had to use one of the Unix flavors to get on the net since linux didn't exist.
( unless you count bits and pieces of GNU being used with the unix kernel as early Linux. )
A few other rather expensive O/S's had limited net capability, but those were very hardware specific and soon ceased to be produced once less expensive hardware and OS's appeared .
( 68000 & 80386.)
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Texas
by: woowilly - Mar 21, 2013 22:54:57 GMT -5
Post by woowilly on Mar 21, 2013 22:54:57 GMT -5
I-35 area of Northern part of Austin
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Post by woowilly on Mar 21, 2013 22:33:05 GMT -5
If running a DC CDI, No orientation is required other than to physically attach it.
If running an AC CDI you have to have the CDI charge coil(s) line up with any of the magnets timed so it's the same as the original position.
8 pole flywheel = 8 positions.
( actual number of magnets present on flywheel. not number of stator poles. some setups use a non-matching counts.)
A few degrees advanced from any of the 8 possible ideal positions won't matter much.
( The leakage current(s) will only have time to discharge the CDI capacitor slightly after it's fully charged and before the trigger signal hits.)
If the leakage currents are low enough, you could go as much as 180 degrees advanced
with no problem.
Not a good idea to go any more than that due to getting too close to the point where the CDI is not yet done firing off the sparkplug of the previous firing,
( It's a wasted spark setup, So it also fires between the exhaust and intake strokes. )
Stator is advanced by having the stator positioned more in the direction opposite the crankshaft rotation.
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Need a lift
by: woowilly - Mar 21, 2013 21:54:11 GMT -5
Post by woowilly on Mar 21, 2013 21:54:11 GMT -5
I'm not sure of the grade of the stock sidestand steel.
Common water pipe is low carbon stuff and bends fairly easily.
4130 steel would be far better. Welding together a kickstand seems to practically screams time to get creative and design and fab up a custom work of art...
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Post by woowilly on Mar 21, 2013 21:20:06 GMT -5
you can also use the 4-pin regulator ( non-3 phase one ) with a 3 phase stator.
Just use the same same setup as as the 2 coil stator comfigured as quasi 3-phase above.
I left out the carb cold start enrichener wireing in my double bridge rectifier schematic above, It can be connected to either side of the headlight diode. I Prefer headlight on only when engine is running. ( if wired to key switched +12, it's not much fun after forgetting to turn key off after kill switch is used to stop engine and kick starter doesn't work due to trying to start spinning the engine on the compression stroke. (my kick starter works only if there a little crank & flywheel inertia before hitting the compression stroke on my engine. due to fairly high compression.)
It's nice seeing several different options on how to wire up a better charge circuit than the standard crappy non-3phase setup. One can mix & match the differing possibilities to personal preference.
I'm gonna go with a real three phase Y wired stator with a 6 diode rectifier fed into a 4 pin regulator. ( this setup requires a fuse in the battery charge wire in case the battery is near dead. a three phase stator can exceed the regulators' SCR current rating under that condition. a resistor wired in series could be used as a way to prevent that, I'll have to sort that out as to which works best later after I upgrade the stator. My priorities dictate MPH increasing mods gotta get done first...)
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