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Post by woowilly on Apr 10, 2013 20:31:37 GMT -5
There's less radio frequency interference with resistor plugs.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 9, 2013 23:06:46 GMT -5
>What would make it still die every time I try to give it a little gas?
being almost too lean to run at idle will do that.
cracking open the throttle lets in more air. which then puts it too lean to run.
Normally, you're a hair rich at idle, cracking open the throttle will cause a slight leaning,
then rpm picks up which in turn sucks in more fuel and brings the mixture back in line.
Open the mixture screw 1/4 turn and try again. ( it might have to be opened a turn or so, try a 1/4 turn at a time to keep from going too far all at once. )
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Post by woowilly on Apr 9, 2013 22:37:06 GMT -5
the procedure I always us to set the idle mixture is:
make a note of how many turns it takes to lightly seat the mixture screw closed.
open it back to that setting.
( you can now set it back to where it was before if you end up with it running worse... )
set the idle speed to spec after warming up engine.
then close the mixture screw until rpm drops.
stop the engine.
make a note of how many turns it takes to lightly seat the mixture screw closed.
open it back to that setting. ( this is the lean rpm drop off point.)
restart engine.
open mixture screw.
rpm will rise as you go from too lean to the best setting then drop as you go too rich.
stop engine as soon as rpm drops.
make a note of how many turns it takes to lightly seat the mixture screw closed.
( this is the rich rpm drop off point.)
The ideal setting is right about half way between the lean point and the rich point.
tweak it one way or the other according to personal reference....
( a hair more open is where I prefer for easier starting, no dieing at idle when cold, no lean dead spot getting off idle when throttle is snapped open due to no accelerator pump.)
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if the halfway point is less than 1 and 1/2 turns out you need a smaller low speed jet,
if more than 3 and 1/2 turns out you need a bigger low speed jet.
( if you can open it more than 4 turns with no rpm drop off due too it being to rich,
you have too small of a slow speed jet and the undersized jet is keeping it from ever going rich.)
------------------------------
choosing the diahram needle taper, Setting needle clip position, and setting main jet size also fall under how to tune it...
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Post by woowilly on Apr 9, 2013 20:49:34 GMT -5
oops.... forgot again, I gotta use my external keyboard for the "p" key.
that should be Water-Proof not Water-roof.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 9, 2013 20:43:09 GMT -5
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Post by woowilly on Apr 8, 2013 22:50:35 GMT -5
If the brakelight comes on, you should have +12 on the input wire of the start button when the brakelight is on. ( it might go through a kickstand switch before going to the start button). Once you have that follow the output wire from the start button to the start relay. ( it may go though a kickstand switch on the way as an alternative place for the switch. ) On most chinese scooters the engine kill switch has nothing to do with the starter circuit. ( other than the brain short circuit as to why won't it start now?  it cranks over, it aught to start...) |
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Post by woowilly on Apr 7, 2013 23:25:35 GMT -5
I installed one of these on my 150 and my top speed went from just over 50 to just over 55.
I had 13 gram rollers ( 4 with flat spots.), I installed 3 10 gram and 3 12 gram rollers.
No noticable change in acceleration.
Rpm at top speed dropped slightly, which worked out nice. Before I was over the torque peak rpm and any headwind or slight incline made the mph drop almost 10 mph, now it drops less than 5 mph when cruising at 50mph and now there's bit of reserve instead of being maxed out on the throttle.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 7, 2013 22:48:38 GMT -5
Check for rust in the gas tanks. That seems to be a problem on engines I've resurrected that have sat for years. Rusted gas tanks are nothing but trouble down the road.
Mice like to make nests in anything that has a hiding place and doesn't move.
( wires nearby are chew toys for rodents...)
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weak spark
by: woowilly - Apr 7, 2013 22:30:23 GMT -5
Post by woowilly on Apr 7, 2013 22:30:23 GMT -5
Make sure your engine to frame ground wire is connected. Mine's broke twice, which results in a weak spark. ( This should be a PDI item: replace that wire with one designed for high flexing usage. Wire with just a few large strands is used because it's cheaper...)
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Post by woowilly on Apr 7, 2013 22:13:48 GMT -5
Improper break in procedure if the piston to cylinder clearance was on the tight side maybe.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 7, 2013 22:07:48 GMT -5
Were the gaps in the clips installed towards the top (or bottom, either ok. ) of the piston. That thing about "An object in motion will remain in motion..." applies to the ends of wrist pin clips...
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Post by woowilly on Apr 7, 2013 21:48:04 GMT -5
Try a harder compound tire. ( I'm not sure if there is much of a selection for scooter tires.) For motorcycles there are comparison charts online that show you where different tires are for the traction and wear rates. Harder rubber compound tires wear slower but have less traction than softer compound tires. If your riding stye pushes it to the limits go with a soft compound tire, if slow and easy is your thing you can get by on a hard compound tire and have long tire life.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 6, 2013 16:09:40 GMT -5
I'll think I'll just say there were a few gals with beads at the ROT rally when I showed up... Attachments:
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Post by woowilly on Apr 6, 2013 15:41:58 GMT -5
chains set too loose will snap from the shock load forces.
too tight increases wear rate. and can cause breaking the guides (and tensionizer)
which then makes the chain too loose and then the chain snaps...
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Post by woowilly on Apr 6, 2013 15:13:50 GMT -5
> That would be a nice Harley if he cleaned it up and fixed it up....looks to be a really old Pan Head....
If cleaned up, it wouldn't be a cool rat rod...
It's not a panhead, it's an EVO twin cam which is a fairly modern harley engine design. ( EVO=evolution series. )
Look at the valve cover arrangement, it's the newer 3 piece design ( with a rectangular hole in the top center ), not a pan.
the panhead engine also has an external magneto with distributer & cap,a fairly flat cover over the cams that extends up to the generator at the front of the engine. ( the EVO engine has a cone cover protrusion over the crank end to house the points or CDI pickup, and a permanent magnet alternator setup on the primary side of the engine. same setup as a 3 phase scooter charge system...)
If properly setup, a panhead would be about the same off the line as an EVO...
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