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Post by woowilly on May 30, 2013 19:47:46 GMT -5
I just wipe the oil the parts and seal and re-use it if it's not damaged. ( It needs to be soft and flexible, and not be squashed flat...)
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Post by woowilly on May 30, 2013 19:40:05 GMT -5
Probably way too rich. Taking the air filter off still leaned it out slightly, but not enough to notice since it was still way too rich. You have  installed, which is reasonable if you have a bbk. is way too big for a stock 50cc. get main jets 75, 70, and 65. Then start going down in main jet size. When it dies or has surging due to being too lean when you open the throttle you went to lean on the jet size, put the one you last had in it and do a plug chop to determine if you need to go up or down 2.5 in jet size. when you're close, taking the air filter off will make a difference. if way to rich, no noticeable difference. If slightly rich, it'll run better at top end. if slightlt lean it'll run much worse. |
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Post by woowilly on May 5, 2013 10:55:31 GMT -5
> I don't see CVK..Keihin or Mikuni carbs on Harley Davidsons...but we have them on our rides. So does that mean ours don't work either.
Look again... My Harley came from the factory with a Keihin CVK 40mm carb.
The Mikuni HSR42, HSR45 carbs are installed by some Harley engine tuners.
Showa forks, and Brembo disc brakes are original equipment on my china scooter and Harley also.
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Post by woowilly on May 2, 2013 13:17:15 GMT -5
Having a title with the signature(s) on the wrong line(s) generally means you qualify for a bonded title in states that offer bonded titles if it can not be corrected by other legal means. (such as the seller obtaining a duplicate title and proceeding from there. Note :white-out is not legal on titles..) www.tn.gov/revenue/forms/titlereg.shtmlwww.tn.gov/sos/rules/1320/1320-08/1320-08-09.pdfI went the bonded title route in Tx. The bond added about $100 to the cost of getting a license plate, inspection sticker and proof of insurance as required in Texas on a scooter that falls under the DMV definition of a motorcycle. |
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Post by woowilly on Apr 30, 2013 19:44:46 GMT -5
The 18 and 19 are OEM for 50cc scooters.
The 24 is OEM for 125cc and 150cc scooters.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 30, 2013 19:32:08 GMT -5
CC listed could be right with a stroker crank.
It could just be unscrupulous marketing.
Also in some countries, advertised CC is piston swept area CC plus combustion chamber CC.
In the U.S. advertised CC normally is piston swept area CC only.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 26, 2013 21:59:19 GMT -5
I just unscrew the spout from my gear oil bottle and put it on the motor oil bottle.
That also makes it easier to control the rate of flow so it doesn't end up overfilled.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 26, 2013 21:31:28 GMT -5
Yep, that's the steps I went hrough.
In Texas any error in filling out the back of the title for a title transfer makes the title invalid.
Then you gotta jump through all the hoops in the right order to get a valid clear title...
In Texas, If the seller didn't get the title transfered to their name, even if he (or she) and the previous seller filled out the back perfect you can't transfer the title (unless you're a registered motor vehicle dealer, they don't even have to have a title apearently, one car I traded in they said it was already sold, licensed, and gone, and the new owner is driving it, and they were done with it when I found my title a few days after trading in a car.)
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Post by woowilly on Apr 26, 2013 0:06:43 GMT -5
Unplug your coil and check it's resistance.
The primary winding. ( across the spade terminals) should be 0.1 to 1.0 ohm.
The secondary winding ( green - spade terminal to sparkplug lead)
with cap should be 7K to 9K ohms.
without cap should be 3K to 4K ohms.
if the coil ohms out ok, I would try another CDI.
( then replace the coil also if that didn't fix it. )
If the Hi-voltage capacitor in the CDI is blown and shorted,
if would cause the voltage measurements you're getting.
The standard resistance of the stator winding for the CDI power (black/red to green lead)
is 500 to 600 ohms.
The standard resistance if the timing pickup coil ( blue/yellow to green lead)
is 80 to 160 ohms.
Your wire colors might be different.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 23, 2013 22:43:09 GMT -5
On an AC CDI, The stator output should be just over 240 volts peak to peak while cranking. It's output is a sinewave, then a pause, then another sinewave, then another pause... Most multimeters can not deal with the pause and will give a lower than expected value. ( it would be just over volts AC RMS if there were no pauses. ) One way to test if the coil or the ground for the coil is open is to touch the stator output wire for the CDI and ground and crank over the engine, If you don't ever want to do that again, it's not open and is probably putting out enough voltage... |
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Post by woowilly on Apr 23, 2013 21:59:24 GMT -5
Here's another possibility for what could cause a muffler to glow red hot:
Late model scooters have a catalytic converter element in the muffler and the carb is jetted as lean as possible for EPA requirements. If you rejet for best performance ( with or without filter & muffler mods. ) there will be more unburned hydrocarbons going through the catalyst which will make it get hotter.
Years ago I got a couple plug wire swapped during an engine rebuild on a car, it started and ran with a bad miss... I ran it for a minute or two to see if it was just the assembly oil that had fouled a plug or two and just needed a minute to clear up. ( wasn't the oil...) The unburned gas from the two mis-wired plugs caused the converter to start glowing red hot after a minute or so.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 21, 2013 13:43:40 GMT -5
If it's lean the exhaust valve and seat will run hot and burn and wear and reduce valve lash clearance quicker than if it's jetted a hair rich. Jetting a hair rich will drop combustion temperature with a minimum of power loss. When lean, there's a surplus of oxygen left over after the power stroke that gets blown out the exhaust. Essentually the same thing happens as a cutting torch, heat the steel real hot then blow oxygen on it to make the metal go away...
( for the exhaust valve and seat it's far better to have a lower temperature and blow CO, CO2 and a minimum of O2 over 'em than have a higher temp and a greater percentage of O2 blown over 'em..)
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Post by woowilly on Apr 17, 2013 0:46:48 GMT -5
If you have a seat latch that operates with a cable off the ignition switch, Another option is to pull the body plastics to get to the back of the ignition switch and unscrew the nut that holds the outer part of the seat release cable to the switch , ( it looks similar to the throttle cable attachment at the carb.) then pull it away from the switch, this will pull the center cable out which will open the seat latch.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 14, 2013 20:36:40 GMT -5
I had the same problem. On mine the ignition switch works a cable to open the latch and a pot metal piece broke inside the switch. I could open it by removing either the gas tank filler tube cover or the rear fender side cover and pulling the cable lever at the latch. On mine the piece the latch bolts to and/or the latch can be unbolted from the rest of the frame after removing enough of the plastic bodywork. That may be your only option if you have a keylock at the latch.
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Post by woowilly on Apr 14, 2013 20:07:35 GMT -5
That seems like a fairly reasonable price.
>I was riding it home one day and it just stopped.
Could be just a wire that came loose, could be a valve head that went through the piston...
Usually it's not major work to get low milage engines running again.
It just takes a bit of troubleshooting ability that many have never learned how to do.
I bought a smaller scooter with a little bit of road rash that was being sold for the same reason.
For a lot less $$$....
( The previous owner gave up trying to get it to run. It ran after I repaired the engine to frame ground wire that had broke and was causing a weak spark.)
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installed, which is reasonable if you have a bbk.