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Post by woowilly on Mar 19, 2013 23:19:12 GMT -5
There's a Diode in the stock regulator between the SCR and battery. A diode needs to be added only if you roll your own regulater to have one with higher a rated SCR and battery isolation diode. ( It doesn't hurt to add it anyway with stock regulator.)
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Post by woowilly on Mar 19, 2013 22:51:24 GMT -5
Oops.... There needs to be a diode added between the battery and the regulator output in my schematic above to keep the regulator from shorting the battery to grond and letting the smoke out of the SCR. The stock regulator SCRs are rated for 12 amps each, using only one shouldn't be a problem. The 0.1 ohm resistors need to be 5 watt or higher rated. ( 5 watts resistor will be 100% over rated at 5 amps per coil. )
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Post by woowilly on Mar 19, 2013 22:24:49 GMT -5
Here's one way to do it with parallel wired coils. Coil polarity in this case doesn't matter. The seperate bridge rectifiers keeps one coil from feeding power to the other due to coil mismatch. The 0.1 ohm resistors help to balance the load between the two coils if there's a slight mismatch in coil windings. The diode and capacitor for the headlight helps to reduce flickering at idle. ( they're optional. ) Stock regulator is used. My only concern is using only one of the two SCRs may be too much current for it. I still need to look up the p/n and ratings of the stock regulator SCRs to say for sure. If it's not rated high enough, it's easy to roll your own shunt regulator. just copy the sense circuit of the stock regulator and stick a higher rated SCR on it. ( short rectified stator output to ground through SCR. ) Attachments:
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Post by woowilly on Mar 16, 2013 2:18:49 GMT -5
In Texas you can get a bonded title for a vehicle without a title if you can show you aquired it legally. ( the bond covers you if someone has a valid prior claim on it's ownership.) after 3 years it converts to a regular title and bond coverage goes away. Im not sure if that's an option for vehicles that have never had the mso filed with DPS. there are businesses that will get you a title for a fee. heres one place: www.its-titles.com/theres more too. A lien sale is another option. The following is a posting I came across about someone that went the lien route. I had a similar problem with a car I bought that the title wasn't signed correctly. I went back to where I bought the car from but I could never get ahold of the previous owner. I eventually filed a lien against the car for storage fees, I could legally charge the guy $5 a day and after 4 months he had a $600 bill for storage. I finally recieved the title to the car; I know it sounds like a crappy thing to do but it worked for me.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 15, 2013 16:46:46 GMT -5
half wave rectification is one shortcomming of typical china scooter voltage regulators. Full wave rectification makes use of the negative voltages that are shorted to ground via a diode in unmodified setups. Not as bad as half wave rectification instead or full wave, but another shortcomming is once the threshhold voltage is reached on the positive sinewave, the scr shorts all generated power to ground until the next positive sinewave. Running a bipolar transistor or mosfet in it's linear region for a series pass or shunt regulator would provide output that's even closer to pure dc after filtering. There'de be more heat to deal with in the regulator, it can be done though with a bigger heatsink and a more expensive power semiconductor. converting to full wave will almost double available power, and it's fairly easy and cheap to do. the gain from redesigning the regulator to get away from a scr setup for a single phase stator probably isn't worth it. It's easier and cheaper to just switch to a three phase stator with scr regulator for far more gain.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 15, 2013 15:57:24 GMT -5
The smoke signals it's time to rebuild top end. Moving the clip towards the center of the needle will shift the needles transition zone(s) to a higher rpm. Easy way to remember is: Having more of the needle out of the jet will enrichen. Exactly where it gets richer depends on the needle length and profile.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 13, 2013 23:18:41 GMT -5
Upper sketch, not left sketch...
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Post by woowilly on Mar 13, 2013 23:12:14 GMT -5
left sketch is what I found in my muffler when I cut it apart to gut it. The right side is rotated degrees to better illustrate it without having one tube behind the other. The horizontal lines just inside the inlet reresents the catalytic converter honeycomb. Not shown is the reinforcing strips between the upper and lower tubes on both the left and right side. Also not shown is the thin layer of fiberglass and metal screen on the inside of the shell. ( it's not wire type screen, it's sheet metal with about the max number of 3/16 inch holes possible.) Attachments:
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Post by woowilly on Mar 8, 2013 21:38:40 GMT -5
A possible fix might be a slightly stiffer slide spring. That would cause airflow velicity through the venturi to be higher at part throttle. With the ideal spring, The slide would still fully open, just at a higher rpm when the intake vaccum came up high enough for a fully open big bore carb to be able to well atomize the fuel.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 8, 2013 20:49:50 GMT -5
Not on scooter head but, In the past Iv'e used a big C clamp and an inch or so long section of one inch square tubing with one side partially cut away to create a space to reach in to get to the keepers. On another head that the valves were too far away for my C clamp to reach, I welded together some scrap metal in a giant C and bolted the center section and screw from a gear puller to it. The gear puller screw end piece pressed against the valve head. ( I welded two parallel peices of flat stock on the opposing end of the giant welded up C to press it against the retainer and leave room to get to the retainers.. I managed to get the jobs done, probably wasn't the best way, I used a few adjectives while looking for the keepers after my make do compressors slipped...
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Post by woowilly on Mar 6, 2013 23:14:37 GMT -5
Some time back, I read on a harley board that wheel binding/drag when the axlenut is tightened would caused by excessive bearing preload due to the inner bearing spacer being too short. ( the one between the bearings ) Maybe it's supposed to be that way on Chinese scooters to have the quality be chinese scooter level... Not tightening the axle nut good and tight in order to allow the wheel to turn easily seems like dealing with an effect instead of fixing the cause. Personally, I prefer having the nuts that hold on wheels good and tight and finding excitement by means other than having wheels falling off.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 5, 2013 21:46:22 GMT -5
there are 2 crank revolutions per crankshaft revolution. if the 3 holes in the cam are out of position with the crankshaft on the T mark, you may just need to rotate the crankshaft 1 revolution. On scooters, the engine to frame ground wire is usually on one of the valve cover bolts. Leaving it off will cause no spark at the sparkplug
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Post by woowilly on Mar 5, 2013 0:07:08 GMT -5
If the first part of the master cylinder bore is badly pitted or scored it'll cause the problem you have.
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