New Rider
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All throttle, no bottle.....
Posts: 46
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Joined: Mar 7, 2013 21:51:57 GMT -5
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 8, 2013 1:00:45 GMT -5
...down to the oil screen. videobam.com/jBflk[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ8lhm_B0ac&feature=youtu.be [/youtube] Results from running way too fast for way too long. It's a stock 57.4mm 157qmj GY6-150cc long case rolling stock 130/60-13"rims So far the new build on this has got me for: new piston + wrist pin , new head , De restricted intake and exhaust , factory 24mm carb: re jetted to #115, 2K torque spring, 2K clutch springs , and 11 gram rollers.....and now I gotta find a crank case, or make it a kicker start only.
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 8, 2013 1:41:32 GMT -5
That link brings up nothing but advertisment?? put the video up on the forum.
What rpms were you cranking at? Alleyoop
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Post by urbanmadness on Mar 8, 2013 1:50:31 GMT -5
I've got one in the shop that did the same thing.... altho the hole in it's piston was a little smaller... LOL
Only problem I'm having is tracking down a head stud that I snapped. Seems they are a smaller diameter then the regular ones.
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Post by scooterelements on Mar 8, 2013 10:04:54 GMT -5
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New Rider
Currently Offline
All throttle, no bottle.....
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Joined: Mar 7, 2013 21:51:57 GMT -5
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 8, 2013 12:07:51 GMT -5
Srry about the "free" hosting link, it's just that I delete so many of my youtube uploads I figured that link would work longer . The RPM's when it popped will forever be a mystery , it's the reason the guy sold it to me on craigslist for $150 with title ;D Neat idea on replacing the valves . Will I need a machine shop for those valve installs or can I just lap them in with some paste? .....I got pretty good at lapping valve seats to get a few more miles after chopping out the center of my old exhaust
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Post by scooterelements on Mar 8, 2013 13:02:03 GMT -5
Srry about the "free" hosting link, it's just that I delete so many of my youtube uploads I figured that link would work longer . The RPM's when it popped will forever be a mystery , it's the reason the guy sold it to me on craigslist for $150 with title ;D Neat idea on replacing the valves . Will I need a machine shop for those valve installs or can I just lap them in with some paste? .....I got pretty good at lapping valve seats to get a few more miles after chopping out the center of my old exhaust You dont need any machine shop for any of that. Just remove the old valves and springs and replace with the new ones. Thats it. What do you mean by lap them? Paste?? never heard of that before.
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New Rider
Currently Offline
All throttle, no bottle.....
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Joined: Mar 7, 2013 21:51:57 GMT -5
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 8, 2013 16:18:48 GMT -5
Valve lapping is how you get your sealing surfaces of the valve face and valve seat tight again.
Over time , or running lean, the cheap steel valve surfaces burn, the surfaces end up looking like concrete texture and compression greatly suffers.
The paste is like a liquid sand paper (fine metal grit in water) , just a little bit , dosen't take much , you rub the valve into the head so it seals perfectly again. A $5 tube dose many engines worth.
I flip my heads upside down on a level table and fill the valve domes with gasoline....If gas leaks out the intake port or the exhaust port the valves are not completely sealing ,usually a little lapping compound smooths them right out.
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Post by urbanmadness on Mar 8, 2013 19:49:08 GMT -5
what do you guys use for a valve compressor? I'm thinking about rebuilding a head or three.....
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Freshman Rider
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Post by woowilly on Mar 8, 2013 20:49:50 GMT -5
Not on scooter head but, In the past Iv'e used a big C clamp and an inch or so long section of one inch square tubing with one side partially cut away to create a space to reach in to get to the keepers. On another head that the valves were too far away for my C clamp to reach, I welded together some scrap metal in a giant C and bolted the center section and screw from a gear puller to it. The gear puller screw end piece pressed against the valve head. ( I welded two parallel peices of flat stock on the opposing end of the giant welded up C to press it against the retainer and leave room to get to the retainers.. I managed to get the jobs done, probably wasn't the best way, I used a few adjectives while looking for the keepers after my make do compressors slipped...
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 8, 2013 20:54:56 GMT -5
You can just use a socket to compress the springs the keepers will just fall right out. Alleyoop
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Post by urbanmadness on Mar 8, 2013 21:13:44 GMT -5
I have a couple of heads I can practice on... LOL
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 8, 2013 21:34:30 GMT -5
Here is much eaiser way than the socket YOU DON'T NEED NO STINKING SOCKET. Alleyoop
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New Rider
Currently Offline
All throttle, no bottle.....
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Joined: Mar 7, 2013 21:51:57 GMT -5
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 9, 2013 17:46:43 GMT -5
Here is much eaiser way than the socket YOU DON'T NEED NO STINKING SOCKET. Alleyoop yes very smart alleyoop , keepers efficiently secured
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Post by JR on Mar 9, 2013 22:06:34 GMT -5
I would lap the new valves if it were me, if just enough to be sure it was seating well.
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Post by wilds on Mar 10, 2013 4:49:11 GMT -5
If you buy Titanium valve springs, check that they are made of Titanium and they should also weigh less than the original valve springs. I ordered NYC Titanium valve springs and when I got I took a magnet to check if they were magnetic and how much they weigh. The valve springs I got were both magnetic and they weigh more than the original valve springs. Which means they are not proper titanium valve springs. Titanium is not magnetic and should weigh less than steel!
I dont think that there exist any anodized springs made of proper titanium. Titanium is a very active metal which cannot be electroplated!
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