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Post by wilds on Sept 27, 2015 0:35:16 GMT -5
Could be a broken side stand switch...
Try by-passing it.
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Post by wilds on Aug 6, 2015 1:16:16 GMT -5
Sounds great! But was that really with the db killer mounted?
I want to hear the difference with the db killer... could you do a vid with the db killer?
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Post by wilds on Aug 1, 2015 0:18:45 GMT -5
Also, this wire is coming off the "round piece" that is located next to the cdi on the right side of frame. Round piece has two "plugs" coming from it. What and where does it connect to?  The "round piece" is called a starter relay. It has two thicker wires. One coming from the battery (+12V) and one that leads to the starter motor. It should also have a smaller wire which should come from the start button. |
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Post by wilds on Jul 26, 2015 23:02:31 GMT -5
what about from the engine to the frame , then back to the battery? I changed both positive and ground wires from the battery. |
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Post by wilds on Jul 26, 2015 1:17:46 GMT -5
if you have the original battery cables still on they are crap.
Make new ones with a pair of jumper cables.
I did that on mine and never had any problems cranking it with the starter motor.
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Post by wilds on Jul 24, 2015 12:51:05 GMT -5
joeybee, Have you got the exhaust on and the vid for us?  |
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Post by wilds on Jul 22, 2015 23:23:10 GMT -5
You will need a gasket to the crankcase cover also.  |
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Post by wilds on Jul 22, 2015 23:13:59 GMT -5
Before you buy a new starter motor. Test the starter using jumper cables.
I suspect that your battery cables are too weak...
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Post by wilds on Jul 22, 2015 23:06:16 GMT -5
If you lower the side stand with engine running it kills the spark.
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Post by wilds on Jul 22, 2015 23:01:59 GMT -5
Is the spark plug dry or wet after all cranking?
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Post by wilds on Jul 21, 2015 23:32:01 GMT -5
The cylinder should be soaked after all starting attempts, is the spark plug "wet"?
If not, it's not getting fuel, check intake valve!
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Post by wilds on Jul 19, 2015 8:13:26 GMT -5
If the valves doesn't open the fuel doesn't get into the cylinder and it want start.
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Post by wilds on Jul 18, 2015 0:41:21 GMT -5
I put in a new variator in, however I was wondering what else could be causing the belt to slip? I did put a 1500RPM clutch\torque spring last year which is much tighter than the stock one. For example I cannot press the clutch down by hand, so it is really grabbing onto the belt very very tight. In my head that make sense that it could cause slippage. Should I try a 1k RPM spring? what is your view on this? thank you - Luigi I suspect that the 1500RPM tourque spring you have on is causing the slippage. I would try a nother torque spring, perhaps you still have the stock spring and can try it... |
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Post by wilds on Jul 18, 2015 0:27:15 GMT -5
Looks really nice! I might buy one...
Looking forward to images and videos when it's mounted so we can see how it fits and sounds.
If you could make a vid with both the db-killer on and off it would be great!
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Post by wilds on Jul 13, 2015 6:56:16 GMT -5
I believe the link Wilds refers to (GEH - George) is someone who ended up just using H4 halogens, which plug right into the standatd ChinaBulb socket and give about a million times more light. CREE LEDs - if they are reasonably high powered - have to have a radiator fin structure at the base because they generate a good deal of heat. Some have trouble with the size of the fin; others with the heat melting the ChinaPlastic bowl inside the headlight structure... I never had any problems at with heat with my CREE lights. I don't think my 12W lights can get that warm... |
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