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My factory headlights were 18volt 18watts + run off direct magneto AC current.
I totally switched to a 12volt 18watt DC led 7" light bar off ebay.
Got 2 for @ $11
I also put an inline relayed handle bar switch so it only draws power at night when being used.
I've not had a problem at all.
With the light not running in the day time the system has plenty of time to recharge the battery tip top everyday.

Brake switch is notorious for staying on those roketas especially when wet outside.
Your stator should outputting up @ 30-40 AC volts before the rectifier.
After the rectifier It should be at least 12.5 DC volts @3000rpm +.
Ohm your harness + connectors > AC voltage out of Magneto > DC voltage out of rectifier .
Often your rectifier will run thru your ignition switch before making its current to the battery.

Thank You,
Yes I like pipe bikes. Easy to work, easy on the eye.
I park next to Ruckus bikes and return out to them actually waiting on me for a chat.
@ 2/3 of an Aluminium full size pick-up tool box.
Just laid the old plastic panels on top and spray painted a base out line.
4" grinder , gloves , + swimming goggles
Finish the edges with a palm sized chunk of concrete.
Its really easy to hook up 2 loop ended old seat belt straps and lifts nicely on a simple engine crane.

I am thinking of contour stitching some EFIS/Stucco lathe around the rear under seat section of the frame.
Give it some form, metal. and it's perforated keeping good thermal exchange.
Simple small Led red + green navigational vessel blinkers are another accent I'm going for eventually.
I'll try to update this post on it.

I really rode the plastic off this frame. (stern to bow)
And fibre glassed them back all pretty only to see them snap even easier on a common speed bump.
Drilled holes and zip tie zombie stitched it together for a long time.
Eventually the other side snaps...leaving 2 halves.
The plastic just dries out evenly brittle over the years....snug a stitch and break a section.

I do travel my town many more places then most scooters.
Along the rail roadsides, down power line trails, hop a curb quick too.
Barney's not lined me up yet with the camera but I been chewed out more then once.
It's been a real tank. Even drug logs and ventured with it after a couple hurricanes.

I'd like to see more peoples nifty home built hack versions like this.
I really enjoy the steam-punk common like detail

Well, it was a nice 13" rim, Red, Black, & Silver 2005 Longbo Adventurer 150.
@2007 I give $150 off craigslist for it, non-running.
2300 Miles, no holes in the case, clean title, ignition key ........an unnoticed broken valve face laying in the oil gallery.
Bet I spent $300 in gasket kits, pistons. & heads figuring out stainless steel valves & bigger jets were really the need.
Lasted a good brutal 10 years before both the plastic and electrical systems just failed all over.
Flash light in the mouth get me homes....yup,been there.

This winter of 2016 I had a little extra time and cut up an old Aluminium gull-wing toolbox into some bolt on panels .
Everything’s tight , not 1 rattle....and the nice quiet factory muffler style stays.

Nothing fancy (...always Black) , keep 2 identical engines to quick swap :
STD 57.4mm tops, 10 gram rollers,Power Link Belt, #125 Main Jet, Stainless Steel Valves, Diverted PCV, No Choke, No filter.


IDK how much it weighs any more , definitely lighter , been meaning to fill up and swing by the scrap yard scales.


 The original battery box bottom is in there (t-rimmed down) . Small rubber mat cloaks battery terminals .


Yup, EMT Conduit for Stranded wiring runs....twist connectors : much better then factory connectors.


Aluminium switch plates with radiator clamp fasteners......250cc brake master ( mirror holder's built in on those)


I only ride in the day , head light's not so important (maybe a junk car fog light IDK) , horns going under deck.


Seat's covered with some durable table cloth material from the thrift store......Pro Tip :  the short staples


Walmart Low voltage 12volt LED trailer lights . Old chain-link fence rail : rear frame tugger point / wheelie pegs.


Dunlop or Pirelli's soon enough,


It's been awhile

Well UPDATE :

The Black Max 117mm Variator was WELL worth the money on the top end.
The engine was stock except for installing stainless steel valves.
We did add a new Belt as well.
It would float at 60mph like a magic carpet....a little too fast actually.
Like comming back in to the atmosphear from space...that maybe the wheel bearings + tires needing a little attention.
The take off was a little slower but over all an excellent upgrade.
You must consider though the vey small clearance between the edge of the variator and CVT housing.
Any crank bearing play will result in the disk colliding with the case....It's tight

I saw that black 117mm disk but saw no reviews on it yet.
Didn't know gy6racingteam was slinging it themselves.
Think I may just try it on this build, I've had no problems dealing with them on other engine stacks. The P.R. packing newspaper is cool to look through too.
Thanks for the links peeps.

Im looking to upgrade the variator on a 157QMJ.
I hear of a larger diameter disk being 117mm, that's quite a jump from the factory 108mm size.
There's so many versions on the market.
What's really worth the money?