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A neighborhood mom and pop hardware shop has the blanks I get for my longbo adventurer 150cc style.
They still cut them by hand . They work perfect on all the locks.

The blank key says :

SILCA , Italy
#KW15BP

> I'm humble with the 60mph top speed and would like to
keep it ....if not increase it.

> I like the ease of acquiring stock 157QMJ parts and
would like to stay with the stock 57.4 piston.

> I like the factory quiet muffler....

> I would like to get better, solid, off / up the line though.
...A plain flat out zip scoot, the kind that makes a stock
camaro Not even wanna try again at the next light...(0.o)

> I would still like to keep it reliable enough for daily
commuting ...between common use/needed rebuilds.

>>> I think this is possible with some CVT / Gear Tuning /
Cam / and/or maybe a little re-jetting. I'm thinking I
need to focus on the variator upgrade , rear end
gears, and the clutch engagement / grip most.

Got any proven Recipes for a tweaked out stock
displacement 150cc scoot rolling on the 13" rims?

My present rig :
Long case , air cooled , gy6 150cc
13" Rims front + rear
57.4 stock jug
Factory Cam...
Stainless steel valves, ....same factory springs though.
Factory "round" exhaust and header
Shorty cone air filter
Stock Carb...up jetted to #118
Factory clutch and springs...
Factory rear end gear(s)...
11gram rollers
Valve cover / fuel filter / PCV / to open purge mod preformed.

Additives?
Bah, IMO,the only addition you get is a bogged up spark plug from that snake oil stuff.
Where do you think all that junk dose at the end of the line (...ground zero,drop zone)?
Petrifies in between the plug gap.
Soon as you run the next tank of fresh gas it will act up again usually.
Clean the plug and it's usually back to how it was running problematically again.

...On cars, getting to those plugs can be complicated ,
So, to an occupied mechanic ...treatment / additive recommendations often bring the vehicle back a little worse at a later time. Same with parts dealers pitching the "possible remedy" at the counter...they know your going to be back soon (somewhere) needing to still fix the problem. The snake oil pretty much makes sure of that on top of the existing cause.

They work somewhat, but only after the plugs get replaced or recleaned and gapped after doseage.
I myself don't use them verses going in and manually fixing the problem.

Yep , alley. I just rebuilt a stock 150 and on the test drive with the owner on it, the engine went floppy once good and hot. Embarrassing as it was , the next day I found the valves a little to tight. The owners been by a few times just to say hello and has put 300 miles on it in it first week already.

These engines seem to like a little (late) play in the valves, especially on the exhaust side imo.

Crank kits come with bearings and the rod already pressed on . It's basically drop in and no machine shop milling is needed.
Course you'd need a cheap magneto puller and free .pdf repair manuals are everywhere on the net.

Just remember to pay attention to your piston ring gaps and placement , even so just a hand file is needed.
You can take the Jug to any mechanic shop and get them to hone it for much cheaper then buying one.
Lapping the valve seats is another easy task and only common hand tools needed in addition to the $5 tube of valve grinding compound.

Imo a crank kit and a complete engine gasket set is way cheaper then a whole unit .

Humm, I think you need to up-size to a larger scoot . #300 is like 2 riders on a 150 size bike.
Not sure if any cvt modifications will last even if they did give results .

CN250's are built just like cvt gy6's , they just have water jackets around their cylinders being water cooled.
....and the seats are way more comfortable : ))

Nerp...
The fuel mixture screw only controls the pilot (idle) jet flow.
The diaphram needle and main jet control the mid and upper RPM's.

I live at sea level , 11 gram rollers , shorty K+N cone style filter , and a nice quiet factory exhaust .
The #115 main jet works nicely for me.
I"m floating 50-55 mph on the flats with ease .

Jet kits are cheap , have fun finding out the one you need.
It's trial and error
Stay in the power band when testing .
Learn to do plug chops , the plug color is what your jetting for ....a nice caramel color when "chopping off" in the powerband is what your wanting.

Mid range bogging is usually in the diaphragm needle height adjustment

An open exhaust is too much for the #115 , it runs firecracker lean and pops so bad the folks on the side walk duck for cover.
I hate the dirt bike sound anyways and I'm just not dumping more fuel in my scoot considering I also have a ninja 500 sitting in the garage along side it.

Ebay's got lots of jets :

www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=157qmj+%23115+jet&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=gy6+150++jet&_sacat=0