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Post by carpespasm on May 28, 2013 9:31:43 GMT -5
Hi all, just getting around to remaking my account since the old forum is kaputsky but I just picked up a 50cc GY6 for a song yesterday in overall good shape, but with a no-start condition. The last owner ran it from new to 11k miles, good maintenance, never dropped it, and was selling it because he got a new one when it was out of warranty and stopped having what sounded like a simple valve adjustment issue he wasn't inclined to know how to do. he'd already bolted on a new carb and starter hoping to fix the problem but I guess valves scared him. Anyway, I got it home, took the head cover off (inside the valve cover everything's immaculate, good sign right?), and adjusted the valve gaps, put it together and still no start. Hmm.... Tried starting fluid with the carb off and I get a fairly heavy and continuous puff of what looks like partially burned air/fuel coming from the air filter box and when I kink off the crankcase vent it seems to build up a fair bit of pressure. So anyone know if I'm in for a tear-down, or is there something else I've missed that might be easier? Is 11,000 miles getting close to dead on these motors even when it's been changed with AmSol and it looks like new inside? PS: I won't be able to get a compression test done on it for a few days to be certain what the compression measures but it does draw what feels like fairly normal suction on my hand when I cover the intake hole and crank it. THANKS!
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New Rider
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Post by carpespasm on May 28, 2013 11:50:04 GMT -5
Been tinkering with it some more. If I hold it WOT with the air cleaner box on it and hold the starter for about 10sec the engine will fire up and run fairly normal, but seems to idle out easily and warming the engine up doesn't seem to help it start any more quickly. Still thinking it's something in the top end or rings losing compression, but would welcome any advice.
Anyone? Bueller?
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Post by bwader on May 28, 2013 15:23:40 GMT -5
I think it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and replace the piston/cylinder and head gasket.
But first before doing that I think it would be a good idea, to continue trying to get it running as it is.
11,000 miles I think a new top end replacement would be a good idea as preventative maintenance. What's in there has got to be worn out.
You could measure the clearance using the pdfs on the forum to know for sure. Might as well nip it in the bud with new.
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All throttle, no bottle.....
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Post by Noneshere on May 28, 2013 15:59:08 GMT -5
Just kick start it , a fresh motor has a good TDC "bump" to it. low compression motors revolve real easy with little "bump" to them.
Plan on lapping the valves while your in there. Flip the head upside down level on a table and fill up the dome with gas. If the valves are leaking the gas will go into the respective exhaust/intake port.
Or weld a male air fitting to broken dug out spark plug .
Set the engine at TDC , and shoot @ 80#'s of continuous air into the cylinder.
You will hear the internal weak points hissing air .
bad rings / head gasket - through the oil fill cap bad intake valve - carb throat bad exhaust valve - muffler.
....Don't forget to remove the wrench you set the engine at TDC with before turning on the air pressure .
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Post by jerseyboy on May 28, 2013 16:11:12 GMT -5
I would do a compression test,, If all is well there then look at stator,cdi,and coil,,i have seen the coil cause symptoms like urs.
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Post by carpespasm on May 28, 2013 16:26:09 GMT -5
Thanks guys, never heard of the hollowed spark plug pressure thing before. I'll give that a go. I did get it up and running now with jumpers to a car battery to start it. Takes about 5-15 seconds to start with the throttle about 1/2 way held. Still won't start on it's own battery or kick, but once running it'll do the usual 30-37mph on a flat road. Of course then I had someone try to run into me when they ran a stopsign, I e-stopped, and the thing chugged out, making me have to roll the thing back the mile or so to the house. Guess that'll learn me not to ride too far from the house on scooters that can't be started without jumper cables.... Any suggestions on where to get a new cylinder and piston kit from? Found this kit from via craigslist looking for a potential parts scoot www.valleyscooterparts.com/cypirigawrpi.html and then called a local shop that wants 130 just for the parts kit. Pretty wide spread there!
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Post by scootnwinn on May 28, 2013 16:28:41 GMT -5
Is this "Fix My Scooter" Game Show Edition.
You need to do some basic looking into it first compression check for sure. Check the valves. Is the carb clean? Fuel source clean? Did you check sparkplug? Is the auto-choke functioning?
Fixing a scooter by poll is a bad idea. Try checking the basics then ask good questions and post lots of picks. "My scooter won't start what do you think" is not a good way to go about it.
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New Rider
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Post by carpespasm on May 28, 2013 18:23:19 GMT -5
Sorry if the poll bugged you, I meant it half in jest. Also, I didn't make a "My scooter won't start what do you think" thread. I had a strong suspicion of the problem and am just looking for anything I might have overlooked and/or comfirmation of my suspicions. I also did say in my first post that the valves were good, the carb is brand new, and though I didn't post it, I drained my fuel, carb bowl, and lines before refilling the scooter with fresh gas and there's a brand new and properly gapped NGK plug in the thing and I checked spark before posting. Sorry for not having mentioned it.
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