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Post by Noneshere on May 28, 2013 15:28:37 GMT -5
Try stepping up a main jet size .
The added fuel internally helps cool it naturally.
A $5 mod off ebay and only takes a screw driver to install.
Most of my overheating picnics arise from burnt exhaust valves .... running too lean in higher RPMs , popping through the exhaust on throttle let off is a sure sign of running too lean.
A tachometer is a super investment .
All too often folks are way over the engines rated power band rpm and complain about being lean.
They are really just over reving the engine and the factory jet is not enough fuel flow for those higher RPM's it will do but is not designed for.
Lean running engines have a tendency to run like a chainsaw from the excessive air. Often deceptively seen as a performance increase.
May feel good , but it wont last long because it's torching itself inside.
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Post by Noneshere on May 20, 2013 20:41:46 GMT -5
Maybe the choke is stuck , have you ohm metered it's resistance value across the leads?
Possibly the carb float is knocked out of alignment or hanging .
Trash in the main jet circuit, or a main jet needle needs it's height position readjusted .
If you kick start it, you still feel the compression bump ?
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Post by Noneshere on May 12, 2013 22:54:18 GMT -5
hummm,
Just an exhaust ?
Try a #112 Main ; stock pilot jet
Intake and Exhaust ?
start with a #115 : stock pilot jet
adjust your mid range needle before moving up or down a jet size....adjust jet sizes according to plug chops burn color in the power band section of engines rpm....chop the engine and pull over removing the plug to see whats happening at that power band load and rpm. Plug tip color tells you exactly whats happening at the drop zone.
Nice Carmel color what your jetting towards.
Run the open exhaust with no jet ...your firecracker hot (white tipped plug) and burning exhaust valves, shortly it turns in to over heating sessions , and low compression failure verified by the kick start , ....the super scoot will be short lived .
Re-jet the carb soon if either the intake or exhaust is de-restricted from factory in any way .
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Post by Noneshere on May 6, 2013 23:27:45 GMT -5
Well , I still have not found a center right side 157qmj case. So I started stacking stuff on the worn installed engine . I put the old gutted exhaust muffler back on it , the #112 jet in the carb , and the shorty air filter. The air filter needed 1.5" x 2" long pvc pipe insert and a 1.5" x 3" long rubber coupling to avoid hitting the frame work, both I picked up at home depot for another $8 It's wonderful pushing 60 mph+ easy here on the flats but it sounds like a dirt bike with that coffee can muffler . I also have a little higher rpm let off popping sound through the exhaust . Not much , but I'm going to drop the #115 jet in soon enough for a try. I've also built a 2K clutch with both red torque and clutch springs . 11 gram weights for the front but wont install them till I get this engine burning rite internally .  |
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 12, 2013 21:31:15 GMT -5
let us know when that day comes, oh wait you already have a 150 go for it.  Alleyoop Bah , I still haven't found a cheap crank case for my other devastated 150 yet .  Wait till you see my next titled $150 craigslist acquired project. ...It's in the 250cc section ;D |
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 12, 2013 21:13:24 GMT -5
We know it's a 2007 according to the title , my buddy just got it off craiglist for $150 , with all the parts . Think it's a cn250 or cfmoto250 engine ?  It looks water cooled with a vertical 2 fan radiator up front. And I think it needs is a complete new head with valves and all the panels put back on it.Every things there, seat and all I was kinda jealous till I saw that $100 head assembly listed on the cn250's   www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12402353/img/12402353.jpg |
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 12, 2013 19:06:00 GMT -5
None Oiled Cooler motors do not have the right setup just to add any of the oil coolers currently being sold. I would be leary to put one on due to possible dry starts. Alleyoop Lulz , the 150's are cheap enough for me to try one day . ;D Even keeping the diameter using say thin copper tubing, how badly would the added length (if any, hydraulically speaking ) cause starvation . If everything is sealed, high pressure low volume should be kept, rite? Harley simply runs their return oil down outside tubes from the heads back to the crank case keeping them plenty cooled. Seems a little dose alot for them |
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 12, 2013 17:41:07 GMT -5
humm, imo. make no doubt , synthetic is good stuff .
Way slicker then conventional (mineral) oil from the ground.
The reduced friction definitely helps keep the overall temps down.
You cannot break an engine in on synthetic , I've tried.
It just pumps oil out the valve cover back into the motor and smokes out the exhaust forever.
Once the engines in broke in , I been just (over) running wal-marts super tech synthetic 15/40 till I bust something again.
Keeps the engine real clean.
It's the best way I've found to naturally wash an old mineral oil run motor out without adding dangerous thinning agents like chemtrol b12 to get the sludge out.
Every oil change it pulls more and more sludge off the walls , makes it not so bad once you do got to split the engine imo.
Oil coolers concern me without having a higher volume oil pumps readily available to compensate the extra tunnel built.
I haven't seen any oil pumps readily available for purchase , most just seem to be with the kits.
a compact car transmission or power steering pump radiator/cooler off the sub-frame might work as well.
You'd need a deep threaded fitting through the oil outlet (presently plugged) on right front side of the gy6 oil case. It's got to be threaded deep enough to divert the direct oil pump outlet flow to the cooler first then back to the chamber next to the outlet where it normally flows feeding the rest of the engine . A check valve might be needed to keep the system filled preventing dry start ups.
I dunno , those kits are expensive imo.
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 10, 2013 0:24:52 GMT -5
Well as I understand ,
Exhaust gas is sent back into the intakes air flow to cycle through again.
It only happens in mid rpm (cruising rpms) , not at idle or full throttle.
Exhaust gas is mostly inert (non-flameable being already burned) , so your putting non-flameable gas back into the cylinder, taking up space normally consumed by air (oxygen=heat) .
Makes a chemical wedge, the less air in the same size cylinder now requires less fuel .
This volume swap runs much cooler because of the reduced oxygen igniting.
Nitrous oxide works the same, it is completely non-flameable.
It works like a freezing cold expanding gas brick being thrown in the flow , shrinking the cylinder chemically and instantly raising the compression at the same time when injected.
Blocking off the egr system gets it out of the way completely and prevents a possibility of high + low rpm/idle issues due to a stuck open egr at a later time.
Runs cooler and gets better mileage if you keep it , getting rid of it eliminates it as a possible problem later though.
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 9, 2013 17:46:43 GMT -5
Here is much eaiser way than the socket YOU DON'T NEED NO STINKING SOCKET. Alleyoop yes very smart alleyoop , keepers efficiently secured |
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 9, 2013 17:03:56 GMT -5
maybe the cdi is good , just not getting it's signal to fire the coil , from the pick up under the fan cover.
I got an extra cdi from this same symptom.
put a new cdi on it and it run temporarily, think I replace the stator and pick up wires under the fan cover.
Old cdi still on my bike , new ones still in the bubble wrap inside the tool box.
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 9, 2013 15:59:32 GMT -5
A flat all in $80 labor for the top end reassembly is plenty fair imo ...stupid panel workz and all. cheap mechanic_all Joe's shops here in southern usa are $60 an hour book time. I just disagree with you on the used parts ...being free. My first resolution ...after disassembly : They'll need to buy the new required parts ...you'll end up keeping the scraps if any once their off and scooting again.They usually don't care, gas mileage is great again  A new crank, rod, and bearings unit is only $60...with free shipping. ...course you might have a used one too for $20 :  many times they order the parts themselves and ship them rite to you If you have refurbished or otherwise reusable parts the storage or labor required to have that re-useable inventory was still not "free" zip ties,fiberglass, bondo,and drill bits get expensive brutha ;D  2 Walmart LED trailer lights $10  |
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 8, 2013 16:18:48 GMT -5
Valve lapping is how you get your sealing surfaces of the valve face and valve seat tight again.
Over time , or running lean, the cheap steel valve surfaces burn, the surfaces end up looking like concrete texture and compression greatly suffers.
The paste is like a liquid sand paper (fine metal grit in water) , just a little bit , dosen't take much , you rub the valve into the head so it seals perfectly again.
A $5 tube dose many engines worth.
I flip my heads upside down on a level table and fill the valve domes with gasoline....If gas leaks out the intake port or the exhaust port the valves are not completely sealing ,usually a little lapping compound smooths them right out.
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 8, 2013 12:07:51 GMT -5
Srry about the "free" hosting link, it's just that I delete so many of my youtube uploads I figured that link would work longer . The RPM's when it popped will forever be a mystery , it's the reason the guy sold it to me on craigslist for $150 with title ;D Neat idea on replacing the valves . Will I need a machine shop for those valve installs or can I just lap them in with some paste? .....I got pretty good at lapping valve seats to get a few more miles after chopping out the center of my old exhaust  |
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Post by Noneshere on Mar 8, 2013 1:00:45 GMT -5
...down to the oil screen. videobam.com/jBflk[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ8lhm_B0ac&feature=youtu.be [/youtube] Results from running way too fast for way too long. It's a stock 57.4mm 157qmj GY6-150cc long case rolling stock 130/60-13"rims So far the new build on this has got me for: new piston + wrist pin , new head , De restricted intake and exhaust , factory 24mm carb: re jetted to #115, 2K torque spring, 2K clutch springs , and 11 gram rollers.....and now I gotta find a crank case, or make it a kicker start only.  |
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