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Post by nofxortiz on Mar 4, 2013 8:53:36 GMT -5
My front brake has always been in a situation where it doesn't begin to stop the scooter until it is very close to the handle bar, so there is minimal resistance all the way from the top and then at the lowest point of depressing the handle it begins to catch and stop the scoot. I assume this is because of air in the line so I have tried bleeding the brake.
I'm just trying to see if i'm doing this correctly, ive read countless threads on how to do it and am very confused as to why it isn't working for me. So if i'm normally ride the scooter and I pumped the brake a couple times it finally builds up pressure and then acts normally, but when I take off again and the pressure of the pads is let of the disc it turns back into not working until I pump them again.
I've been using a plastic (1/4) in. hose and have done the normal process of squeezing, letting fluid out, closing valve, then releasing the lever. I'm having good flow coming out of the valve and have cycled through I would say 20+ master cylinders worth of brake fluid (i've never let it get too low as to let air in) in the process of bleeding this brake 5 times. I'm just lost as to what point of my bleeding technique I am letting air into the hose, my other scoot had an identical problem so i'm assuming it isnt a faulty line.
Any insight to this would be helpful i'm starting to give up on having the front brake entirely. Thanks guys
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Post by terrilee on Mar 4, 2013 9:09:58 GMT -5
now im NOT a mechbut your doing it the way i do.
are you sure there isnt a leak somewhere. a gap at the master cyl. thats letting air in , or the line itself.
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Wildfire WFH150-S 10,000+ Chinometer
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Post by ericrockstar on Mar 4, 2013 9:11:55 GMT -5
Sounds like you're doing it right. Maybe the sixth time will be the charm? I just did the master and slave cylinders on my Accord, well I used a vacuum bleeder pump. Could not get it to work with the bleeder screw (kept sucking air around the threads). So I took the bleeder screw all the way out and used the little cone tips where the bleeder goes. Finished bleeding it then put the screw back in. Worked perfect.
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Post by jwm1597 on Mar 4, 2013 9:22:18 GMT -5
You might try putting the hose into a bottle with brake fluid in it instead of turning the valve off while pumping the brake leaver. This will let you see if you are getting air out of the system and will also not let air into the system while you are bleeding it.
That is the way we did it years ago.
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Post by woowilly on Mar 5, 2013 0:07:08 GMT -5
If the first part of the master cylinder bore is badly pitted or scored it'll cause the problem you have.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Mar 16, 2013 12:21:29 GMT -5
If the first part of the master cylinder bore is badly pitted or scored it'll cause the problem you have. I'm having similar problems. My master cylinder (rear-disk) went bad and I replaced it. Then, couldn't get the bleeding right. Alleyoop posted a GREAT video on how to "back-fill" and flush the system in my thread "still NO rear brake" in this same section. I'm getting a large syringe as shown in the video and will do it that way. By filling the system "backwards" through the bleed-valve, you just can't miss... If you do that and it still isn't right, there must be a problem like the master cylinder being corroded as mentioned. That was my trouble. Please do check the video, it's a real eye-opener. Hope this helps, Leo in Texas
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 16, 2013 13:00:50 GMT -5
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