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take off the carb and intake , crank it and dribble some gas down the hole .

Have you checked the valves ? what about the plug wet dry clean dirty ?

John

I've read through your stuff again mate, and I'm still leaning towards fuel supply/vacuum.

Fuel filter? Lines connected up the right way? (Won't say old lines-I know you replaced them) Petcock? Vacuum blockage from debris in the lock up?

I'm sorry I can't help further.

Ian

At a guess, I doubt it's the transmission that's locked. I'd suggest changing the engine and trans oil. Check both for debris (I doubt you'll be able check the engine oil for debris: if he's killed the engine in 77Km it'll probably be the original Chinese gunk in it). Get the valve cover off and check the valves and rocker gear for free movement, then get the belt and CVT covers off and see what you can move by hand. Hopefully you'll then be able to get it TDC and check the valve heights properly.

It could just be that repeated failed starts with no valve movement has air locked the cylinder. It could be a jammed ring or other mechanical failure if he's not run it in properly.

It does sound like thing has had zero TLC and may need some work.

Ian

The small scooters with 10 inch wheels can only go so fast before coming unstable . When I put on a 50mm BBK my TaoTao would zoom but it was like stunt riding as it was more skeery than when I went 160 MPH on a Honda Hurricane ( later renamed CBR ) 100 . The ones with 10s often have a hub for a 13 inch wheel and thus display a faster rate on the speedo . Even Honda motorcycles are not 100 % accurate as CycleGear sells kits to get them more better to being accurate .

Many performance variators have steeper ramps and a larger diameter which can yield 2 to 5 MPH gain in some cases . The clutch springs of 1k , 1.5k and 2k have the clutch engaging at their rated speed above the RPM of stock springs like a stall convertor in a car with an automatic tranny . The torque or contra spring can help with going uphill as lighter variator weights do as well . When you change the springs out you may also need heavier weights to use with stiffer springs . CVT tuning will require some trial and error of testing diff weights and springs until you get it as desired . The HP clutch springs can make the belt wear out a lil faster .

I was looking at a DR Pulley clutch as it comes with spring sets and weights so you can fine tune it more so than others . The cost is several times more , DR Pulley is a well known good name in variator weights so I figured their clutches would be better than OEM ones but I read where a few members had failure . Hoca and NCY are both considered decent brands that are better than stock parts and not as expensive as the Itailian goodies . I am looking at a Stage6 CVT kt as I plan on installing a Stage 6 BBK with matching crank this summer when my outside jobs pick up .

I have read several horro stories where the stock generic belt with some locking up the rear wheel causing a slide and in some cases a wreck . When a belt breaks it takes a while to clean out the dust and broken strands . Remove the CVT cover and see if you have a Gates Powerlink belt like some come with as many have a crapppy generic one that will not hold up or last as long as a Gates or Bando . I got 12,000 miles on my belt in my Echarm and could have went more but I changed it anyways to be safe as I like to do so rather than wait for a failure . I love to wrench like doing service work but it can suck at times when its repairs . Bando is made in Japan instead of China and that is what Hondas use and after doing some research and polling Bando seems to be the best brand . My 2T has a lil over 4,000 miles and still looks like new on the stock Gates belt but will be replaced with a Bando when its time .

You can tune the CVT to improve your speed without touching the engine . You can have lighter weights to help on takeoff and uphill bu ttoo light will loose top end and MPG not to mention over rev the engine . Heavier can have more top end providing the engine is strong enough but really hurt take off and uphill .

I used to think a CVT was wimpy compared to a manual wet clutch tranny until I rode a Polaris Ranger , a 500cc and a 600cc v twin all with a CVT instead of manual shift ( I love a manual clutch but hate a semi auto clutch ) and it really performed well and helped in desending down steep hills as I had over 30,000 acres to ride in a national park . Having a CVT is an advantage of a chain driven moped that has only one gear where the expansion of the belt acts like having gear ratios as it does not have a physical set of gears to shift like a manual tranny does .

Even tuned a 49cc can only do so much and if you put it under too much stress plan on having it wear out faster and damage parts . With a BBK its instantly more power so the engine can hit top speed and not work as hard after upjetting the carb . Installing a BBK may require retuning the CVT as when I had a 49cc engine 5 grams was ok but with a BBK it would redline on level road and I could not push it hard when going downhill as I tried to not let it redline . Stock engine would hit 8,000 and fizzle above that but with a BBK , pipe , upjet and racing CDI it can now hit 10,500 sometimes 11,000 according to the tach . Not my lil scoot is a 2T and it can rev much higher than a 4t but the CVT tuning is similar on both other than a 4T has tranny drag and a 2T coasts .

If you really want a 49cc or larger with a BBK then get a 2T as a tuned 70cc can smoke any small 4T and some 150s . I love to say " Its only a 50 but has an exhaust leak "as my pipe is very loud like a motorcross sound and decibel level and make 4T riders get 2T envy

The NYC kit well work for you
it has everything you need

it may not be necessary but couldn't hurt, if you can get one for a good price get it.