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Post by superjew78 on Apr 9, 2013 10:55:49 GMT -5
From what i recall the proper way to tune the carb is to adjust the idle screw until the back wheel starts to turn, then turn back slightly till it stops. Then to adjust the idle a/f screw until it revs high. Am i wrong?
Scooter idles ok until i give it gas, once i let off the throttle the scooter idles down to the point where it is going to stall out. Sometimes it stalls and sometimes the idle will pick back up. The only way i can stop this is my turning the idle screw up to the point that the back wheel spins while idling. I am not sure what to do, any suggestions?
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Post by natetheokay on Apr 9, 2013 14:33:09 GMT -5
Does it idle down immediately after giving it gas or does it have to warm up for a minute or two before it starts to drop off? If it's the latter, it may need a valve adjustment.
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Post by superjew78 on Apr 9, 2013 14:50:05 GMT -5
[replyingto=natetheokay]natetheokay[/replyingto]I just got done doing a valve adjustment, they were way off. I set them both to .05mm according to the guide in the sticky at the top of the forum.
Seems to be ok now but the scooter is quite louder. I am gonna dial down the idle a bit and see if its ok
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Post by bigmac on Apr 9, 2013 15:12:59 GMT -5
On my scooter, I turn the idle adjustment screw just enough to get it to start up. After that, I go on a ride that's long enough to fully warm up the engine. Right after I get back and with the engine still running, I adjust the idle screw.
My scooter has an RPM gauge, so I can watch the needle until it's at about 1,500 RPM, which is the recommended idle speed according to my scooter's manual. I'm sure you can easily do it by ear if you don't have an RPM gauge. It'll sound right. It won't sound like it's going to stall, nor rev enough to spin the back wheel.
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Post by superjew78 on Apr 9, 2013 17:32:28 GMT -5
My engine was warmed up and i was trying to do that but i couldnt seem to get it right. I think its running much better now with the valve adjustment however it still sounds a bit loud. Maybe its just louder then i remember. I just started riding it again yesterday due to better weather.
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Post by superjew78 on Apr 9, 2013 18:56:16 GMT -5
[replyingto=superjew78]superjew78[/replyingto]scratch that, its still doing the same thing. Even after the valve adjustment. It seems to do it when you snap the throttle as the rpms drop it seems to drop really low like its going to stall out, then it starts to pick back up and idle fine.
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Post by superjew78 on Apr 9, 2013 21:49:48 GMT -5
any more suggestions?
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 9, 2013 22:08:47 GMT -5
1. Give the throttle a quick twist:
A. If the rpms drop below idle speed, then recovers (or stalls), it is RICH —Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw Clockwise ¼ turns at a time and go to #1.
B. If the rpms do not drop quickly to the idle speed but hang and drop slowly it is LEAN —Turn the Fuel Mixture Screw Counter Clockwise ¼ turns at a time and go to #1. Alleyoop
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Post by woowilly on Apr 9, 2013 22:37:06 GMT -5
the procedure I always us to set the idle mixture is: make a note of how many turns it takes to lightly seat the mixture screw closed. open it back to that setting. ( you can now set it back to where it was before if you end up with it running worse... ) set the idle speed to spec after warming up engine. then close the mixture screw until rpm drops. stop the engine. make a note of how many turns it takes to lightly seat the mixture screw closed. open it back to that setting. ( this is the lean rpm drop off point.) restart engine. open mixture screw. rpm will rise as you go from too lean to the best setting then drop as you go too rich. stop engine as soon as rpm drops. make a note of how many turns it takes to lightly seat the mixture screw closed. ( this is the rich rpm drop off point.) The ideal setting is right about half way between the lean point and the rich point. tweak it one way or the other according to personal reference.... ( a hair more open is where I prefer for easier starting, no dieing at idle when cold, no lean dead spot getting off idle when throttle is snapped open due to no accelerator pump.) ------------------------------------------ if the halfway point is less than 1 and 1/2 turns out you need a smaller low speed jet, if more than 3 and 1/2 turns out you need a bigger low speed jet. ( if you can open it more than 4 turns with no rpm drop off due too it being to rich, you have too small of a slow speed jet and the undersized jet is keeping it from ever going rich.) ------------------------------ choosing the diahram needle taper, Setting needle clip position, and setting main jet size also fall under how to tune it...
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2013 9:50:16 GMT -5
Not sure whats "loud" means.not the valves claping I hope! Adjusting valves should not make it any louder unless they are way off.
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Post by bigmac on Apr 10, 2013 16:01:19 GMT -5
Like Alleyoop said, it might be running rich or lean.
I had idling issues similar to what you're describing when the needle valve in my carburetor stopped making a proper seal, causing the engine to run too rich.
I had no idea what was wrong, until I checked my air filter and found it soaked in gas and black soot on my spark plug.
I'd check for signs of a flooding carburetor. Maybe you could see if there is a trace of gas in the unit that holds your air filter.
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Post by superjew78 on Apr 10, 2013 16:32:59 GMT -5
[replyingto=bigmac]bigmac[/replyingto]Thanks for the tips, i will try both suggestions tomorrow. its pouring out now
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Post by scooteron on Apr 11, 2013 13:54:19 GMT -5
See my post "Carb problem discovered: assembled wrong!"
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Post by superjew78 on Apr 11, 2013 18:10:30 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestion however I have owned this scooter for 5 years and it just started acting like this
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Post by tvnacman on Apr 11, 2013 18:24:43 GMT -5
I would recheck the vlaves , go for a ride . Then do what Alley said .
John
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