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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 22, 2013 21:39:14 GMT -5
I figured I'd share my lil "adventure" (or should I say project?) HOW TO GUT YOUR 50cc GY6 MUFFLER! ;D It's rather simple if you have access to a grinder/hacksaw/sawzaw/bandsaw, a wire wheel/wire brush/sandpaper, and a welder! Lol... I know that's "broad" but it will all work to do what needs to be done! I used a grinder for the cutting and a dremel w/ a wire wheel to clean off the paint n metal for the welding! Simple. Had no idea what was inside of one of these mufflers, but after looming around in it.... good God, it's restricted!!! I have an open air filter and I'm rejetted, needed to open up the back end too! Plus, I'm a machinist, ABSOLUTELY HATE how quite this scooter is and like to fiddle with things! Haha... Step 1: remove the entire muffler assembly (4 bolts on mine, INCLUDING head studs!) Step 2: Hack off the back portion (where the "tip" is welded on) then hack to where the "spot welds" are, holding all the noise reduction crap in. (About 1/3rd of the muffler) Step 3: cut the "header pipe" off of the muffler (the inlet side) All of that stuff in there was attached to that, so it was necessary in my case. I'm assuming in others it would be too! Step 4: get rid of everything inside that thing... Step 5: THIS, is all you should be left with!!! As you can see, in this next pic, the muffler is already baffled ... I have to break out the drill press tomorrow, so I can drill a bigger hole where that stock "tip/exit" is on the back plate. I'll probably just use about a 1" bit... The exhaust will look much sportier like this as well... as it takes quite a bit of length away from it! AND I still can bolt it in the stock location! The stock header can just be welded directly back in its same location... tho I took a small hammer and "mushroomed" the header pipe a Tad, to be able to get a GOOD bead around it! It'll weld up, like so.... And again, after I drill out a slightly bigger hole in the rear plate, it will be welded back on (like "stock") as well! Hopefully this can help some ppl out w/ freeing up their exhaust, for FREE! Lol.... lemme know if anyone wants any head work done! I plan to shave my head and port and Polish my intake/exhaust runners next!
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 1:18:48 GMT -5
I did the same except I left mine long. ( for a deeper tone ) Have fun welding the chinese crappy steel shell. It's almost like trying to weld thin aluminum sheet. Bolt the header pipe to the head, the shell to it's mounts, and tack 'em together in 3 or 4 spots to ensure the mount points will align after weldibg. Probably best to use Tig or oxy/actalene with a small welding tip. I used mig with 0.023 solid wire and CO2/argon sheilding and the lowest setting possible which resulted in most of my time being spent rewelding after grinding down leaking areas and filling in melt throughs. ( lightly pressurize it with a shop vac air outlet or compressor and apply soapy water to find the leaks in the welds. )
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Post by prodigit on Mar 23, 2013 1:39:37 GMT -5
Make sure you point the tip in a slightly downward angle. That way no rain water enters in, and you get an additional sound muffling (because the sound will not go straight backwards, but is projected downwards, and has to reflect off the asphalt).
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 23, 2013 7:07:04 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips guys...
I'll be welding it at the shop with a mig as well.... I'll use the settings you explained woowilly!
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 23, 2013 7:09:09 GMT -5
BTW...
Does she sound better after doing this? Or is it just highly obnoxious??? Lol
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 11:38:33 GMT -5
I got a nice deeper sounding rumble at idle, reasonable sounding at part throttle, ( it doen't sound like a sewing machine anymore..), slightly loud at full throttle high rpm without the way to loud high pitch obnoxious sounds of a straight pipe. It's just loud enough for those cars next to me to hear me and know I'm there now while cruising along at 40-50..
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Post by woowilly on Mar 23, 2013 12:21:10 GMT -5
while welding it back together, I wouldn't reccomend flux core wire on a mig, it's much more aggressive & deeper penetrating than plain wire with co2/argon sheilding. and will cause more melt though problems. It'll work, It'll just take more time to get it welded up to where it's good.
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 23, 2013 20:14:30 GMT -5
I used a flux core, crap, wire fed "on the gun" style, Northern Tools welder to do it today! Came out perfect believe it or not! I had it on the "high" amp setting at first and your right, burnt a hole STRAIGHT THROUGH the danger muffler. Had to tone er down to the "low" setting! Haha... worked fine THEN! I also pressure tested it, no leaks whatsoever.... I was impressed! I was going to wait till I got back to work and use the good mig, decided to go at it today just because I was bored! Hehe... here's how it turned out! BTW... still need to clean up the welds better with a smaller grinder, all I had was the big angle at the homefront! I also "dished in" the rear plate and used a crap dremel bit to get the hole a little bigger. Ill probably use a grinder wheel on the dremel to clean e everything up as well, followed by a sanding bit and wire wheel. I opened up the header portion as well, kinda just "port matched" it..... didn't wanna go TOO far, as I didn't wanna break the welds! Anyways, pics will do the talking! As far as sound, I'm HIGHLY impressed!! It sounds A LOT like my old Yamaha PW50 dirtbike... Haha! Its much deeper, but not overly loud and obnoxious. EXACTLY what I was looking for! ;D Can't wait to finish cleaning this up and then paint it the HUGE angle grinder was nicking EVERYTHING and EVERYWHERE up... As you can see, i also cut off the old bolts that used to hold that ugly chrome muffler cover on... those things were nothing but IN THE WAY!
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 23, 2013 20:21:33 GMT -5
Oh yea.... I plan to add an angled piece of 1-1.5" pipe, angled downward to the rear of the pipe! So the grinder cuts don't bother me too much! Haha...
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