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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 11, 2013 20:56:58 GMT -5
HELLO out theeeeerrreeee!!!! Lol...
I'm this thinking what I may have is a spark issue! I have GOOD valve clearance, compression, fuel, PLENTY of air... only thing left is SPARK! And it would explain my symptoms ALONG w/ the weird sparking issue I had on the EGR valve to the frame!
So is there a way to TRULY test the spark other than visual and/or just replacing parts?!?
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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 11, 2013 17:11:22 GMT -5
ANYONE have any input?!
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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 11, 2013 7:33:41 GMT -5
Ok, so!.... .... I took off the EGR valve last night and plugged the hole on the head, using the stock "loop pipe's" connection and some high temp JB Weld (as well as a plug for nipples), as you will see in the picture. The other end of the line went to NO.WHERE! I thought that was kinda weird. Nonetheless, I checked valve clearance as well, all good at .003 on BOTH exhaust and intake... Went to start her up and STILL, no joy! Almost worse now!  I'm not sure where to.look next fellas, any help is appreciated, the timing is dead on too! Even swapped in the stock CDI instead of the "performance" CDI. I can barely get it to start with ether... I have no idea what's next. I've tried with the gas cap one/off.... It's getting plenty of fuel and spark, n last time I checked, it had good compression as well.... Anyways, here's some pics I took after the deeds were done! JUST so y'all can see what I'm working with... she's pretty "bare"! Lol... Valve cover  Back, left shot....  Back right shot...  "Homemade blockoff plate" for EGR  Other end of egr pipe that lead to NOWHERE!  Breather nipple for valve cover...  |
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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 10, 2013 20:15:27 GMT -5
So u think depleting the EGR would be my best option???
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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 10, 2013 12:02:09 GMT -5
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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 10, 2013 11:50:27 GMT -5
Plan to check timing while doing valves/EGR delete.... what "heat spacer" are u referring to? The spacer that sits between the intake boot and the head???
How or why would that be backwards. It ran fine before and that hasn't been TOUCHED!
Keep em coming! Need scooter in my life!!!! Lol
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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 10, 2013 7:16:54 GMT -5
What I'm referring.to is the EGR valve, on the valve cover. I think this may be SOME of my problem. I will delete it when I do the valves!
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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 10, 2013 6:29:31 GMT -5
I know how the enricher works, its plugged with JB Weld, it wasnt doing anything when I HAD joy anyways. Figured I'd get it out of there. And it didn't cause the bike any problems unhooked at the time either!
No. CVT binding.
I will get to the valves ASAP....
I DID notice that the emissions stuff (on the valve cover) was literally JUMPING A SPARK from the little metal "loop pipe" on the valve cover to the frame??? Could NOT figure that one out, it stopped after I coated it with some high temp paint. I plan to delete that stufff anyways...
Keep em coming fellas!
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Post by shotnva777 on Apr 9, 2013 21:16:58 GMT -5
Not sure of brand or make of scooter but I've done just about every test known to man! I'm usually good w/ getting a GY6 "clone" running.... even to the point where ppl bring them to ME for fixing. I'm stumped tho, here's the breakdown on the scoot! - ALL electronics have been stripped from this bike. She's a kickstart, no gauges, no lights, NOTHING! Again, nothing electrical is hooked up and its all stripped off, except what's SUPPOSED to be there for it to run! - Open air filter (homemade - homemade RIGHT I might add!) - #  main jet (drilled PERFECTLY by yours truly - I'm a machinist!) - Custom, high flow muffler with ported/polished header... - Lighter roller weights. - There's 1 vacuum line coming from the intake boot to the petcock (which has brand new fuel filter and a manual fuel cutoff) and 2 fuel lines, one from the petcock to carb and the drain line w/ plug That's IT! Problem is... she wont get up and GO! She'll idle ok, not great, but when u go to give it gas, it just doesn't wanna go. Almost like a miss. It used to run FINE! Fast and perfect... one day she just died. Its got GREAT spark, perfect compression, plenty of fuel. Im baffled. The only thing I haven't done is adjust the valves, easily done, I'm just lazy! Lol... could this be the COMPLETE underlying problem tho?! The choke/fuel enricher is GONE, obviously... no electronics! Carb was just THOROUGHLY cleaned to perfection! I have no joy and its getting warm out I have no idea where to look next or what could be causing the stalling and no acceleration.... I've freakin bypassed EVERYTHING! Might as well call this thing a street legal dirtbike! Haha... ANY help is appreciated... I have to hit it w/ ether to get her running (which I didn't have to do before it died that one rainy day) I plan to tap in a primer bulb eventually, to get er going. But I gotta get to the underlying problem(s) FIRST! Thanks everyone! - |
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 23, 2013 20:21:33 GMT -5
Oh yea.... I plan to add an angled piece of 1-1.5" pipe, angled downward to the rear of the pipe! So the grinder cuts don't bother me too much! Haha...
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 23, 2013 20:14:30 GMT -5
I used a flux core, crap, wire fed "on the gun" style, Northern Tools welder to do it today! Came out perfect believe it or not! I had it on the "high" amp setting at first and your right, burnt a hole STRAIGHT THROUGH the danger muffler. Had to tone er down to the "low" setting! Haha... worked fine THEN! I also pressure tested it, no leaks whatsoever.... I was impressed! I was going to wait till I got back to work and use the good mig, decided to go at it today just because I was bored! Hehe... here's how it turned out! BTW... still need to clean up the welds better with a smaller grinder, all I had was the big angle at the homefront! I also "dished in" the rear plate and used a crap dremel bit to get the hole a little bigger. Ill probably use a grinder wheel on the dremel to clean e everything up as well, followed by a sanding bit and wire wheel. I opened up the header portion as well, kinda just "port matched" it..... didn't wanna go TOO far, as I didn't wanna break the welds! Anyways, pics will do the talking! As far as sound, I'm HIGHLY impressed!! It sounds A LOT like my old Yamaha PW50 dirtbike... Haha! Its much deeper, but not overly loud and obnoxious. EXACTLY what I was looking for! ;D Can't wait to finish cleaning this up and then paint it  the HUGE angle grinder was nicking EVERYTHING and EVERYWHERE up...       As you can see, i also cut off the old bolts that used to hold that ugly chrome muffler cover on... those things were nothing but IN THE WAY! |
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 23, 2013 7:09:09 GMT -5
BTW...
Does she sound better after doing this? Or is it just highly obnoxious??? Lol
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 23, 2013 7:07:04 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips guys...
I'll be welding it at the shop with a mig as well.... I'll use the settings you explained woowilly!
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 22, 2013 21:39:14 GMT -5
I figured I'd share my lil "adventure" (or should I say project?) HOW TO GUT YOUR 50cc GY6 MUFFLER! ;D It's rather simple if you have access to a grinder/hacksaw/sawzaw/bandsaw, a wire wheel/wire brush/sandpaper, and a welder! Lol... I know that's "broad" but it will all work to do what needs to be done! I used a grinder for the cutting and a dremel w/ a wire wheel to clean off the paint n metal for the welding! Simple. Had no idea what was inside of one of these mufflers, but after looming around in it.... good God, it's restricted!!! I have an open air filter and I'm rejetted, needed to open up the back end too! Plus, I'm a machinist, ABSOLUTELY HATE how quite this scooter is and like to fiddle with things! Haha... Step 1: remove the entire muffler assembly (4 bolts on mine, INCLUDING head studs!) Step 2: Hack off the back portion (where the "tip" is welded on) then hack to where the "spot welds" are, holding all the noise reduction crap in. (About 1/3rd of the muffler) Step 3: cut the "header pipe" off of the muffler (the inlet side) All of that stuff in there was attached to that, so it was necessary in my case. I'm assuming in others it would be too! Step 4: get rid of everything inside that thing...  Step 5: THIS, is all you should be left with!!!  As you can see, in this next pic, the muffler is already baffled ... I have to break out the drill press tomorrow, so I can drill a bigger hole where that stock "tip/exit" is on the back plate. I'll probably just use about a 1" bit...  The exhaust will look much sportier like this as well... as it takes quite a bit of length away from it! AND I still can bolt it in the stock location!   The stock header can just be welded directly back in its same location... tho I took a small hammer and "mushroomed" the header pipe a Tad, to be able to get a GOOD bead around it!  It'll weld up, like so....  And again, after I drill out a slightly bigger hole in the rear plate, it will be welded back on (like "stock") as well!  Hopefully this can help some ppl out w/ freeing up their exhaust, for FREE! Lol.... lemme know if anyone wants any head work done! I plan to shave my head and port and Polish my intake/exhaust runners next!  |
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Post by shotnva777 on Mar 20, 2013 21:39:55 GMT -5
My apologies... figured the area code would give it away! ;D
Hampton Roads Area of VA! " 7 CITIES "
23662 zip
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main jet (drilled PERFECTLY by yours truly - I'm a machinist!)