More Light Project on a 50cc Sunny Style 2 scooter  By  chihuahuas (Read 3,258 times)

The 35w hid will consume less power than a 35w incandescent bulb, but they draw a lot of amps till the bulb is heated up. I had dual 55w halogens in the magnum with projector housings already installed. I converted them to 55w hid bulbs. They only consume 35w. Problem is they draw about 8 amps each to start. If I try to turn on both at the same time the system doesn't supply enough power. I installed a timing circuit, so that one bulb turns on then a little while later the other one turns on.

Roy

the remote sense 5 wire regulator setup in use has a design flaw.
when you turn the key off, the regulator switchs to max possible output to the battery and the lights while the engine is still spinning the stator still generates power which is no longer regulated in any way. There should be a 100 ohm resistor between the black sense wire and the red battery charge wire at the regulator.
(actually it should be inside the regulator, but....somewhere in china someone went: if silly end owner unplugs sense wire on a running scooter or starts scooter with it off playing scooter mechanic he deserves burned up parts, I can cut manufacturing costs by 3 cents per scooter by deleting this overvoltage safeguard resistor and get a nice bonus.......)
If the black wire goes open at the switch due to worn out contacts or corrosion,breaks or connectors pull apart while the engine is running, It''l blow out all the lights and boil the battery electrolite away and kill the battery.
the 4 pin regulator is the exact same except it has the sense lead tied to the battery lead inside the regulator. the 5 pin regulator uses remote voltage sense to eliminate the voltage drop on the undersized (another 3 cents per scooter saved...) charge wire to the battery on scooters with high electric loads which are tied to the battery . ( a 10 amp load from headlight on battery, electric fuel pump, dc-cdi, fuel injection electronics could result in 13 volts at regulator 2 volts dropped in charge wire, 11 volts remaining at battery which would run down the battery if remote battery voltage sense wasn't used)

The gap on spark plug has nothing to do with the rest of the power to the bike. The stator or battery(IF DC) fed the CDI which in turns builds up the voltage to release to the COIL when it gets the signal from the Pickup Coil which in turn coverts that into 20000-40000 volts and sends that down the coil wire to the spark plug.
Alleyoop

You have it wired correct.
It's probably best to solder it to the wires at the regulator plug then cover the connection with liquid tape or something similar.
There is no drain on battery to consider. it might be a few micro-Amps due to reverse bias leakage, which is nothing compared to the battery sefl discharge rate. D1 is reverse biased, Q1 base-collector junction is reverse biased. both D1 and Q1 will draw current only if battery voltage goes over the zener diode D1 reverse bias breakdown voltage. ( the regulation point of the chargeing system is higher than nominal battery voltage remember...)
With the 100 ohm resistor installed, you have may have a slight undervoltage
at the battery while charging due to sensing the voltage at the regulator, but that's only when it's protecting you from an overvoltage condition due to a non-connected remote voltage sense wire. ( it broke, came unplugged or whatever.)
Far better to maybe have to kick start it to get home than blow all the lights and ruin the battery if the remote sense wire lost connection.

Fortunately (?), mine has an AC headlight setup and AC CDI, with battery voltage sense for the regulator inside the regulator.


A larger wire from the stator coils to the regulator and from the regulator to the battery wouldn't hurt. Not needed unless you have a rather heavy load demand.
The increase in Amps really ups the wire losses if undersized wire is used.
power lost in the wire is Amps squared times the wires' resistance.
( I^2 * R )

This stator and Regulator works good but I have a ratical idea to double the lighting output from a stock stator.

To increase the output power I will increase the voltage by x2.

The 8 pole stator has 7 poles wound in magnet wire providing the Inductor to power the electrical system.
2 volts at each coil is the average output rating. I propost to double the voltage to 4 volts and leave the amprege the same increasing the power output to double.


To do this i need to rewire the stator once again.
2 seperate circuits.
4 coils x4volts=16 volts
3 coils x4volts = 12 volts

4 coil wrap will be isolated fulwave output to regulator for battery and HID lamp
3 coil wrap will be AC to separate regulator to 50 watt Headlamp.

Scooter at idle will not provide enough voltage. at cruise speed this all changes. It's a tradeoff. But for 6000 lumens of light it's wort it.

HID 4000 lumens
50watt halogen 1800 lumens

Here's a stator that has been reconnected 3x4



connectiond will be enclosed in epoxy




The Three coils wired to a 65 watt headlight work great, the engine speed at 2500 rpms brings the lamp to full brightness and the regulator is regulating at 15+volts. I need to run the power through a bridge rectifier to drop the voltage 1.2 volts so the lamp won't burn out to quick.
It's insane how bright that headlight gets

Lowering the spark plug gap, lowers the required voltage to have a spark; resulting in less energy wasted, more energy remaining for the bike.

I got it working
I am using the original scheme, In my reasearch the way you convert a stator to full wave DC is to isolate the ground. Connect the 2 output wires to a bridge rectifier. Connect each polarity of the ac to a SCR and zener diode array and this shunts excess voltage to regulate the output.
In other words slap a regulator on it.

Problem in this setup is lacking in power. 50 watts of power is what this produces. I need 65 watts. So where is the loss.

The loss come into the equation when wiring the stator to floating ground. You have to delete 1 coil to get 65 watts power. This is the oversight. I unwrapped the last coil and discarded it. On the stock 8 pole stator 2 poles are ignition and 6 poles are power. 1 pole deleted leaves 5 coils. The original lighting coil.