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Post by bwader on May 15, 2013 18:37:06 GMT -5
Got my 15/37 gears today!
I am still working on it, just took a break out of the heat, been out there a while.
I rented a gear puller from Autozone for $30 just take it back for money back!
I used it and my corded impact wrench and a cresent wrench and a rag holding the other end. It slipped off a couple times but no damage.
I was able to press off the 13 and press on the 15 tooth. Though I had to use a red brick with holes in it and a hammer to get it started before using the gear puller and impact wrench again.
Now I got to putting it in and the new 15 tooth with shaft is not wanting to go into the bearing hole. I seems too big, I'm going to try sanding it down a little and cleaning it up good then trying again.
Kind of makes sense that the stock one had 3,300 miles on it so it was easy to pull out compared to the new one.
One other possibility is IF I pressed it on the wrong way (50% chance) it would make sense the gears aren't meshing right.
But it seems its just the one end wont fit the bearing hole easy.
Also found a 22mm socket is too small to take off tire. Looks like I'll need a 24mm. But anyway I'll pick that up on the way over there later to return the gear puller and get back my $30!
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Post by bwader on May 15, 2013 14:36:51 GMT -5
Mine started doing doing the clanking.
I thought it was the transmission or something was loose in there. After I isolated it taking off the belt and variator and ran the engine I found it came from the engine.
I got it TDC and adjusted to .004 on both. It still makes the noise at idle.
Before I never heard clanking till I adjusted the valves.
So I wreckin' the .003 people are talking about will be better.
Also tightened up the 4 12mm bolts in, one was a little loose. But it didn't take it away.
Its 80'sF today so take longer to cool again.
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Post by bwader on May 12, 2013 0:49:32 GMT -5
If you have an impact wrench its easy.
You will need to drain the gear oil and have pan ready to collect gear oil.
Take off your kickstart pedal.
Take off the 8mm bolts that hold your CVT cover on.
Jiggle it off taking care of the CVT gasket. ( I took my kickstart completely out including those gears, makes it easier and they don't work anyway. I'll fix when I feel like.
Now you will see your Variator on left and auto Clutch on the right.
On my 150 its a 17mm socket on both.
With impact wrench remove the variator nut. This is a good time to change out your rollers/sliders, check/replace your belt, check/upgrade your variator to a performance one.
Take off the clutch nut and slide off the auto clutch bell. Again this is a good time to have upgrade parts for your auto clutch, if you have a complete auto clutch assembly.
( don't take apart the clutch unless you are wanting to take it apart, you'll need a very large socket anyway and to stand on the auto clutch on one end to compress the spring. )
Now you can remove the 8mm bolts to the gear housing. Drain the gear oil if you haven't already done so.
Now the gear housing is pretty straight forward loosen and remove the 6 or so bolts holding the gear case on.
With all those off I had to tap the sides of the cover to get to come out.
Carefully use a flathead screwdriver to pry the cover off all around.
if you are lucky and careful enough the gasket will be intact. Mine ripped on me in a spot. I re-used mine and no leaks
Now you can see the gears.
This video goes into more detail of extra stuff you can do. But all need to do is remove the variator and clutch assembly to get to the gear case.
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Post by bwader on May 10, 2013 23:50:29 GMT -5
Make sure the VALVE CORE is in the valve stem snug.
If you have good tread and just want to fix the air leak you can use a C-Clamp and clamp the tire together on the valve stem end.
You can replace the whole valve stem this way, just be careful not to loose the bulb part of the valve stem inside the tire.
When you replace the valve stem you can push the rubber bulb part inward and pull the other side with pliers.
I did this when my P.O.S. stock tire stem cracked and leaked air to the point it broke off when I wiggled it.
There are lots of videos of people replacing tires on utube where they remove the muffler, swing arm and then the wheel nut to get the rear wheel off.
The tire plug repair kit is a life saver and money saver. I had a screw in my tire on my car and just roughed it and plugged it and my tires haven't lost any air. Saved money on having to get a new tire. I haven't had to do it on my scooter though
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Post by bwader on May 10, 2013 23:24:17 GMT -5
thanks all. but while you were all giving great advice i was cracking the gear box. as carasdad said i have to know or i might of been doing myself a disservice. i didn't know about the tire. it turned out to be a straight 4:1 13/52 so since im puting in a bbk im going with a 14/32 which will be about the right upgear. thanks. Ok lets put this into perspective, my 150cc stock has 13/40 final gears. And you are going to 14/32! I'm going to 15/37 Rule I've heard is go about 2 teeth up and 2 teeth down when up gearing. Unless you have more cc's to pull the gears without having too sluggish of acceleration. I don't know about 14/32 that sounds a bit too steep even if you had 150cc's I hope that works out for ya.
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Post by bwader on May 10, 2013 10:34:27 GMT -5
I thought Virginia was bad. $10 title fee costs $50 with taxes. $30 a year for my 150cc same as my car on registration Taxes are $4 per 100 per year. So my scooter they value at $900 and they charged me $8 for this year. It would have been $36.72 for taxes but that got a 100% car tax credit. So all I had to pay was $8 city license fee. My car they valued at 4000 and I paid $ but they decreased the original tax amount it was $165. Insurance I pay $75 a year on scooter and $600 a year no accidents or tickets. If I lived in Florida I'd consider moving if taxes are that costly. But then again its nicer weather and hurricanes during season.
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Post by bwader on May 9, 2013 11:07:47 GMT -5
With that kit, selling 10's and 11's its not really a big difference. Maybe with 10's and 13's are heavy. 11's aren't really "heavy"
Comes down to opinion. Its great if you are trying for a 11.5 gram weight or the best of having 10's and 11's.
I've had in lots of roller combos 9's/16/s 10's/12's 13's/16's
In slider combos I have only had 10's/15's. I got the best of both.
With all 10's my rpms were higher just to takeoff but I had the best acceleration.....up to about 45mph or so then it took longer to get to 55-56mph rpms were 7500+ I didn't like those. From 45-55mph I have to be at 6,500-7600rpms I had that sweet spot for the power range but it killed my gas mileage.
Went from 15's with 65mpg and 10's 54mpg. No.
With 10's/15's I got 56mpg but I had the best of both weights I had better acceleration without having to be at too high of rpms and I had better top end acceleration at higher rpms.
For me I like riding 3/4 to full throttle and highest it goes is 6,900-7000rpms and I get the same top end just a little slower and better mileage.
I haven't tried the "high and low" ramp variators. That price is a bit steep for me for a variator . I'm going to put in taller gears 15/37 and see how good or bad the 15 gram sliders do. I'll probably will need to do 10's/15's with higher gears maybe even all 10's.
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Post by bwader on May 7, 2013 19:23:29 GMT -5
I have the same cdi and coil. Same performance just starts up easier. Top end still 55-57mph
I had a better improvement adjusting the engine valves!
But I got the stock in the frame just in case.
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Post by bwader on May 7, 2013 19:15:29 GMT -5
Mine does at around 3,500. stock clutch and springs
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Tires?
by: bwader - May 7, 2013 19:09:00 GMT -5
Post by bwader on May 7, 2013 19:09:00 GMT -5
Like with anything find what you like and want and search for it elsewhere for better prices with shipping. I found an Avon tire I liked for 70 bucks with shipping and searched around and found it on ebay for 48 bucks free shipping. same exact tire
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Post by bwader on May 7, 2013 19:04:07 GMT -5
I took my motorcycle license on my 150cc. They tell you they deduct points or fail you if your bike STALLS! Which is funny for a scooter rider to hear! I just practiced the course after hours at the DMV, nobody there. Watched this utube video and its still the same 4 exercises in a parking lot. There are 3 others just watch them and practice and its easy. I went there by myself practicing and taking the "road test" which is just a parking lot. Virginia get your permit, wait 30 days and practice. Then take the parking lot test. Also be prepared to pay for 8 years of license. I think it was 30 bucks.
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Post by bwader on May 7, 2013 18:23:26 GMT -5
I have 4k km's on my scoot, and the front tire still has the rubber tips on them; could be sold as new. +1 on the front tire having less wear. Another good reason to apply front braking as much as possible; if not, the front tire will outlive the scooter. I never had the tire pop off. I guess it's possible when the pressure is low. I tried tightening the valve stems, but with no success. I take it you mean you tried tightening the VALVE CORE on the valve stems. It a quick way to deflate the tires too.
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Post by bwader on May 7, 2013 14:09:41 GMT -5
You do whatever you want with your scooter.
I was just saying I had curiosity and wanted to know what the top speed my was after changing the oil a couple times.
People say the old tried and true "easy break in"
Hard break-in I've heard racers do before a race with their brand new parts.
What I get out of all of it is vary your rpms and don't cruise at a single speed for break-in.
I'd really like to see a Mythbusters episode on "Easy VS Hard Break-in" they could use two of the same model engine and keep everything identical except for Jamie could be riding "hard break in" and Adam riding "easy break in" .
I'm searching for episodes now that I've thought of this.
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Post by bwader on May 7, 2013 11:46:21 GMT -5
13 inch wheel __1.6__vehicle transmission gear _3.077_Rear gear ratio _______rear gear ratio #2 _______ration #3 When I put in 1.6 for trans. gear I get about 55mph for 7,000 rpms I just want to understand. I know at the clutch there is a small gear inside the gear housing it turns a 42 tooth with the 13 tooth on it. Then the 13 turns the 40 tooth to the wheel. I'm just going off memory. Read more: itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?action=display&board=50ac&thread=1746#ixzz2ScrWcC53
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Post by bwader on May 7, 2013 11:36:22 GMT -5
Help me input the right numbers. www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php13 inch wheel _______vehicle transmission gear _3.077_Rear gear ratio _______rear gear ratio #2 _______ration #3 Okay I know my final gear ratio is 13/40. At 7,000 rpms I know I am going around 55mph+ 3.077 is the 13/40 gear ratio so does that go in REAR gear ratio? Then another gear set ratio could go in slot 2 and 3?
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