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Post by bwader on Apr 27, 2013 17:05:57 GMT -5
Been thinking a lot about this. I heard a lot the "on a stock engine 2 teeth up and 2 teeth down" So I figure if its 14/40 tooth upgrade to 16/38
On scootertronics it costs 80 bucks but they offer to press the gears for you. I don't know if they mean send in your gears and they will take care of it and press on the taller gears.
I'd imagine they have sets made up for easy replace old and put in new.
Today I adjusted my valves and my performance is better I went from 52-54mph at around 7,000 rpms to 55-56mph at 7,000 WOT on flat ground. 14 gram sliders
I got 10 gram sliders to experiment with I'll try.
I'm experimenting to find what sliders I like the best. I do like heavier ones for lower rpms, but its feels nice to be in the power range
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Post by nate7504 on Apr 27, 2013 17:13:55 GMT -5
I have 14g as well gotta post what the 10s do for ya!!!
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Post by tvnacman on Apr 27, 2013 21:39:03 GMT -5
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Post by bwader on Apr 28, 2013 18:59:51 GMT -5
I couldn't fit a larger variator in there! 115mm it takes up all the space. The drive plate is the same size too. |
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Post by bwader on Apr 29, 2013 18:53:55 GMT -5
I put in the 10gram sliders. Haven't test rode yet. But started up and revved up a little and I can tell its going to be better takeoff.
I will find out in the morning if its not raining going to work and coming home. 50% or less chance of rain I ride.
Also I put my Slipstreamer windshield back on. It makes a better ride. Had to see what mileage I get without windshield and trunk.
It will be a month til I get taller gears. Got that mortgage and bills to pay.
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Post by bwader on Apr 30, 2013 16:08:49 GMT -5
Rode to and from work the long way home. 46miles total I filled up to see mileage. 54mpg I expected it to go down
Accelleration is improved, BUT I don't like it. My tach/hour meter has been stuck on cycling through the digits on its own so I don't know what exact rpms. But on the scooter tach it showed 7,000 at 40mph most the time 7,500rpms
The rpms are too high at lower speeds for me. I'll try 10's/14's next and if I don't like it I'm going back to the 14's.
Ok at 25mph rpms are about 5,500
Top speed was 54.9mph this morning 58F probably 7,500rpms or more
Up to 45mph acceleration is better but it takes a while to get to 50+
I don't like wasting gas revving so high and just to go 54.9mph tops.
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Post by bwader on May 5, 2013 0:56:42 GMT -5
I have on 10's/14's gram sliders in rode a couple days. Top rpms about 7,000-7,200 going about 50+. Top speed was 56.8mph gps 56 mpg though  I have been riding the same so I know its the increased rpms lowering the mileage. My truck driving co-workers think I'm crazy trying out different weights, for them 56mpg is great  Not for me though. I want the best I can reasonably and be able to maintain 55mph when I'm on the highway........so it leads me back to the 14 gram sliders that I can get 65mpg and maintain higher speeds. Also I like the "oomph" I get from heavier weights, I don't need much throttle to take off compared to the 10 gram sliders. Which required higher rpms. From all this experimenting and trial and error with roller/sliders weights I have made full circle to where I started. I like 14 gram sliders for the best top end performance while maintaining a decent gas mileage for my riding. For the very best mileage I'd go back to 16 gram rollers. And even better I would need to leave for work sooner and ride the speed limit and piss off people who can't stand NOT going 10mph over. 16's sliders were better without the annoying RATTLE, but the rollers I got upper 60's for gas mileage. My top rpms for 16's rollers was about 6,600 rpms any wind would reduce down to 6,400 or so but once down hill or a back draft then it gets interesting. |
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Post by bwader on May 5, 2013 19:47:41 GMT -5
Today I took the time to finally clean the inside out of my CVT. Its been black from belt dust accumulation and grease.
I also: Changed back to 15 gram sliders
Cleaned everything with brake cleaner and wiped off with rag
Roughed up glazed variatior and clutch bell
Tried to troubleshoot kick start, I ended up just taking it out completely.
Charged battery
Drained gear oil then took off gear housing to see what gears I have.
I have 13 tooth turning a 40 tooth final drive to the wheel.
This was a lot easier to do than I thought, it helped watching Utube videos changing out final drive gears.
My belt had a rib missing from it so I changed back to the original bando belt. Had on a gates powerlink. I have another powerlink coming in.
Felt good to take off the CVT and get some good maintenance done.
Last upgrades I'm doing is taller gears (when I get some money to buy them, new rear Avon tire on the way, and new belt when it comes in.
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Post by justputtnaround on May 8, 2013 17:33:09 GMT -5
How do u find out what your gears are initially before I start swapping them in and out
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Post by bwader on May 12, 2013 0:49:32 GMT -5
If you have an impact wrench its easy.
You will need to drain the gear oil and have pan ready to collect gear oil.
Take off your kickstart pedal.
Take off the 8mm bolts that hold your CVT cover on.
Jiggle it off taking care of the CVT gasket. ( I took my kickstart completely out including those gears, makes it easier and they don't work anyway. I'll fix when I feel like.
Now you will see your Variator on left and auto Clutch on the right.
On my 150 its a 17mm socket on both.
With impact wrench remove the variator nut. This is a good time to change out your rollers/sliders, check/replace your belt, check/upgrade your variator to a performance one.
Take off the clutch nut and slide off the auto clutch bell. Again this is a good time to have upgrade parts for your auto clutch, if you have a complete auto clutch assembly.
( don't take apart the clutch unless you are wanting to take it apart, you'll need a very large socket anyway and to stand on the auto clutch on one end to compress the spring. )
Now you can remove the 8mm bolts to the gear housing.
Drain the gear oil if you haven't already done so.
Now the gear housing is pretty straight forward loosen and remove the 6 or so bolts holding the gear case on.
With all those off I had to tap the sides of the cover to get to come out.
Carefully use a flathead screwdriver to pry the cover off all around.
if you are lucky and careful enough the gasket will be intact. Mine ripped on me in a spot. I re-used mine and no leaks
Now you can see the gears.
This video goes into more detail of extra stuff you can do. But all need to do is remove the variator and clutch assembly to get to the gear case.
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Post by bwader on May 15, 2013 18:37:06 GMT -5
Got my 15/37 gears today!
I am still working on it, just took a break out of the heat, been out there a while.
I rented a gear puller from Autozone for $30 just take it back for money back!
I used it and my corded impact wrench and a cresent wrench and a rag holding the other end. It slipped off a couple times but no damage.
I was able to press off the 13 and press on the 15 tooth. Though I had to use a red brick with holes in it and a hammer to get it started before using the gear puller and impact wrench again.
Now I got to putting it in and the new 15 tooth with shaft is not wanting to go into the bearing hole. I seems too big, I'm going to try sanding it down a little and cleaning it up good then trying again.
Kind of makes sense that the stock one had 3,300 miles on it so it was easy to pull out compared to the new one.
One other possibility is IF I pressed it on the wrong way (50% chance) it would make sense the gears aren't meshing right.
But it seems its just the one end wont fit the bearing hole easy.
Also found a 22mm socket is too small to take off tire. Looks like I'll need a 24mm. But anyway I'll pick that up on the way over there later to return the gear puller and get back my $30!
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Post by bwader on May 15, 2013 20:39:48 GMT -5
Well I didn't have to sand any thing like I thought. All I had to do was tap it in. I got to get a larger socket to take my rear wheel off and put on that Avon tire. I got tire irons and going to soap it up after letting all the air in the valve stem. After that fill it up with air and take it for a top speed run! I'm keeping the 15 gram sliders in, I'm sure I'll want to change but I want to see what happens with my taller gears as they are! After all its only 11 bolts and the cvt nut to change the variator weights. With an impact wrench that's a quick job.  |
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Post by h3nry on May 16, 2013 7:36:44 GMT -5
Oh, those kick starters are buttholes at times but, I have only had one issue and it was my own fault.
The gear that is attached to the kick lever had 3 feathers shear, well I guess it was cause I didn't put a bushing in. I just welded the tip of the teeth and ground em to a rough profile of the other teeth,but a little taller than before to avoid another issue
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Post by mrpalmetto on May 16, 2013 10:21:20 GMT -5
Gotta hear the gear change outcome. I'm contemplating changing mine. Is a gear change a potential engine life shortening endevour? Really don't want added performance that shortens engine life.
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Post by bwader on May 16, 2013 10:52:40 GMT -5
I think it would be worse for the engine to put in SHORTER gears because of higher rpms overall. But if someone wants better acceleration and doesn't care about losing some top end that would be a move to do. I think putting in Taller gears its a bigger load the engine has to move but its got to be better than having to go higher rpms for the same speed. After all we don't run our cars at the higher rpm we do on scooters. Of course most of our cars are built with bigger engines made for going faster carrying heavier loads. On this chart 13/40 gearing 13inch wheel and I inputted 1.6 for trans. because at 7,000 rpm my scooter goes 54-55mph. So With 13/37 I had just for giggles in the middle. Then on the far right is the 2.46 gear ratio with the 13/37 gears. 68mph at 7,000rpms! Ha! yeah right! www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php Engine Speed (RPM) MPH 3.077 Gear 13/40 13/37 15/37 3.07 Gear 2.  Gear 2.46 Gear 8000 RPM 62.  MPH 68.09 MPH 78.61 MPH 7500 RPM 58.92 MPH 63.83 MPH 73.69 MPH 7000 RPM 54.99 MPH 59.58 MPH 68.78 MPH 6500 RPM 51.06 MPH 55.32 MPH 63.87 MPH 6000 RPM 47.13 MPH 51.07 MPH 58.96 MPH 5500 RPM 43.21 MPH 46.81 MPH 54.04 MPH 5000 RPM 39.28 MPH 42.56 MPH 49.13 MPH 4500 RPM 35.35 MPH 38.30 MPH 44.22 MPH 4000 RPM 31.42 MPH 34.04 MPH 39.30 MPH 3500 RPM 27.49 MPH 29.79 MPH 34.39 MPH 3000 RPM 23.57 MPH 25.53 MPH 29.48 MPH 2500 RPM 19.64 MPH 21.28 MPH 24.56 MPH 2000 RPM 15.71 MPH 17.02 MPH 19.65 MPH 1500 RPM 11.78 MPH 12.77 MPH 14.74 MPH 1000 RPM 7.86 MPH 8.51 MPH 9.83 MPH I'm predicting I'll get 60-62mph as a new realistic top speed Well got to get off here and try it out! |
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Gear 2.46 Gear 
MPH 68.09 MPH 78.61 MPH