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Post by mrpalmetto on Sept 22, 2015 9:12:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply Joey
I initially had 14 sliders and that didn't work, I tried 12 rollers but still no good. I thought like you did, that the rollers might be the reason, so I put in 9.5 gram sliders. It ran the best so far.
Do you think I should go even lighter on the rollers, maybe to an 8 roller? Never have read about a 150 cc no less a 180 cc with variator weights that light. What do you think?
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Post by mrpalmetto on Sept 21, 2015 19:36:26 GMT -5
Ok that makes a lot of sense. But unfortunately repeating my information in a simpler manner doesn't get me any closer to my goal. Would you suggest a bigger jet or a smaller jet and does your answer take into consideration the optimum winning combination with the dual stage UNI installed as currently only the grey single stage is installed, and of course I would like to run optimally with the red UNI installed on top of the grey, thus a two stage filter.
Are you guessing or have you experienced this type of situation in your own interactions with your scooter? Anybody with practical information out there that can make some positive suggestions, maybe an administrator or an ol timer?
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Post by mrpalmetto on Sept 21, 2015 10:28:13 GMT -5
I put a 180cc big block engine in. I installed an OKO 30mm carb. The scoot starts on a spark, idles perfectly and pulls great until I hit 45 to 50 mph. Then the pull stops, the revs go down and any more throttle makes it bog. I changed the main jets several times and the only improvement I got was yesterday when I removed the UNI filter and in would run much better and not die off both in speed or revs.
Everything about this engine runs great until I reach the one half to full throttle position and then the symptoms listed above develop. I went from a 130 to a 125 to a 118 to a 112 to a 108 main jet and have been reading the plug along the way. The best I achieved is a 118 main jet with the best performance with the UNI filter off. I hit 58 mph which is real good for a reverse trike with a windshield, but I know there is more left in that engine.
Why would it drop in revs and quit pulling at the upper range of the throttle and why does removing the air filter, which improves performance, contribute to my problems. Any help with any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The valves were set by the builder, so I didn't mess with the adjustments. If it starts on a spark, and pulls great thru the needle stage of the carb operation, could it be the valves. I'm really wore out and puzzled on this one.
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FFWWAOOOMP!
by: mrpalmetto - Jun 13, 2015 16:34:04 GMT -5
Post by mrpalmetto on Jun 13, 2015 16:34:04 GMT -5
Could you comment on your temp gauge, where u got it and how easy is it to install?
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Post by mrpalmetto on Jun 13, 2015 16:26:34 GMT -5
I drive the Pirelli's SL 26 on the front of a reverse trike. It took all the shake and wobble out of the front end. When I took off the two stock front tires they looked like square donuts. I'm very satisfied with the pirelli's and they show no significant wear after 2500 miles. Would definitely buy them again.
Bought a Michealin for the rear, just installed it. Again the stock tire was another China square donut. The new Mich. Has a center line of solid tread which looked like a good wear factor. All good name tires will work and do the job. What I think is important is the wear factor, how long will they last. Read the reviews and base your decision with longevity in mind. The less I have to replace them the better I like it, especially in the rear.
I would recommend the Pirelli's. Great tire great wear.
I would tell all riders to scrap those stock China tires ASAP. They are GARBAGE and not worth the risk of failure, of you can afford it.
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Post by mrpalmetto on May 29, 2015 9:54:59 GMT -5
We should hook up some day. I've done substantial upgrades and would rather enjoy telling u then writing them all out. Email is ....mrpalmetto1@msn.com
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 25, 2015 8:44:45 GMT -5
I say the weight of that one roller, at full tilt, is heavy enough to push a 250lb man 50 mph with the help of 5 of his fellow friends. :-)
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 24, 2015 10:23:21 GMT -5
Hey Joey.
My first sentence of my post is that I had the same cheap scales that was brought up in the discussion. Maybe you should get a mit and get in the game. On this planet.
My post was just to add that MAYBE a 6$ scale that can weigh 100ths of a gram up to 7 ounces, which is what 200 grams approximates at, may have some variance in it.
The differences that Geh was astutely noticing MAY be because of the ABILITIES of a $6 scale AND some tips for others, that I have observed from using a like product, so it may help them.
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 23, 2015 17:41:16 GMT -5
Really thinking about it. That scale for $5.  ranges from .01 to 200 grams, or close to a little less than 1/2 a pound. Do you think there might be a .05 to .09 deviation in the accuracy? You can weigh a 5 gram roller, or a 27 gram bag, which is an ounce, OR nearly 2 full sized sticks of butter. I doubt we're are even going to get close to CONSISTANT accuracy. For $5. . |
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 23, 2015 17:29:08 GMT -5
I have the same cheap scales bought on line. You really have to be sure you don't change the weight too quickly from one to the next. These scales need a few moments between weighs and also you will notice the scale may not go to zero when the weight is removed and leave some 10ths showing as you quickly get ready to weigh the next weight. You will also do good to turn the scale  degrees and reweigh them all again, taking time to let the scale zero itself. Unless you have a relatively decent priced scale, you can't expect a great readout that you can bet the farm on, on a scale that costs $5. . Really, how do you expect the kind of accuracy that your looking for with the range that scale offers and the lightness of what you are trying to weigh. I hope you guys aren't buying your chemical entertainment weighed out on a set of 6 buck scales. :- ) |
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 17, 2015 11:21:44 GMT -5
Yes, pipe and Uni. I have a 118 and 120 comming from Jets R Us. The 122 I have is too much.
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 17, 2015 6:42:06 GMT -5
I changed my drive gears also. Do you have quick, decent or adequate acceleration.? From my experience the only thing that increases top end is the gears, because the engine is only going to go as fast as the gearing is going to allow. I may be wrong but, for example, belt size did nothing, and I guess there are a few mods that get you 1 or 2 mph, but with hills and wind and weather factors, it's really hard to tell?
Was it not the gearing that got you to that high a top speed?
Thanks for the good info on Rpms.
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 16, 2015 7:13:21 GMT -5
Very good. I appreciate you taking the time to post this info. It is very helpful to get good reliable info so quickly. Thanks.
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 15, 2015 14:44:32 GMT -5
Jerry.
I'm running a 115 in a 28 mm carb. Almost great idle. Does not sound perfect to me but its real darn close. Almost perfect. I had a 122 or a 125, can't see those numbers, in it before but I had to turn my air/fuel screw all the way home to get my best idle so that's where I changed to the 115 because that's all I had. Any suggestions to what size jet to try next? Thanks for your help.
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Post by mrpalmetto on Mar 15, 2015 13:48:47 GMT -5
If I'm running near full throttle and as I back off slowly near mid throttle, and as I continue to ease off, the RPM's raises and speed increases a little. What does that tell me about My main jet size?
When I am cruising at 55mph, and I'm revving at between 6800-7000 RPM range, is that a safe and reliable RPM?
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ranges from .01 to 200 grams, or close to a little less than 1/2 a pound. Do you think there might be a .05 to .09 deviation in the accuracy? You can weigh a 5 gram roller, or a 27 gram bag, which is an ounce, OR nearly 2 full sized sticks of butter. I doubt we're are even going to get close to CONSISTANT accuracy. For $5.
degrees and reweigh them all again, taking time to let the scale zero itself. Unless you have a relatively decent priced scale, you can't expect a great readout that you can bet the farm on, on a scale that costs $5.