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Post by bwader on Apr 27, 2013 17:05:57 GMT -5
Been thinking a lot about this. I heard a lot the "on a stock engine 2 teeth up and 2 teeth down" So I figure if its 14/40 tooth upgrade to 16/38
On scootertronics it costs 80 bucks but they offer to press the gears for you. I don't know if they mean send in your gears and they will take care of it and press on the taller gears.
I'd imagine they have sets made up for easy replace old and put in new.
Today I adjusted my valves and my performance is better I went from 52-54mph at around 7,000 rpms to 55-56mph at 7,000 WOT on flat ground. 14 gram sliders
I got 10 gram sliders to experiment with I'll try.
I'm experimenting to find what sliders I like the best. I do like heavier ones for lower rpms, but its feels nice to be in the power range
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Post by bwader on Apr 27, 2013 16:53:18 GMT -5
I just did my first valve adjustment today at 3,000 miles!
Last year at 6900-7200 rpms 14 gram sliders 55-57mph.
This season I have had lower performance lately I had 50-53mph and then today I adjusted to .004 intake .005 exhaust 55-56mph
Adjusted carb. fuel air mixture too
It really made a difference!
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Post by bwader on Apr 25, 2013 21:07:16 GMT -5
Im eager to hear your results!  At least if its 180cc its still worth it for someone who d rather skip the big bore kit install work. Then again for someone to do it themselves its cheaper than buying the "200cc" kit |
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Post by bwader on Apr 25, 2013 16:04:14 GMT -5
I carry too much stuff.
Extra carb. Came in handy when installed one failed flooding
2 feet of fuel hose
zip ties
extra spark plug
stock coil and cdi I have in the frame as back ups
stock fuel "pump" in frame
2 valve stems and 6" C clamp
MM sockets/wrench
Fuses
Philips and flathead screw drivers and attachments
Wires
Next I'm getting an extra battery so I don't have to fix my kick start.
I Help! sign would be good to have too.
People on the road keep jumper cables with them so it just takes nice trustworthy people who aren't there to rob you
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Post by bwader on Apr 25, 2013 14:42:46 GMT -5
62-67mpg tires 36psi 130-60-13inch tires Roundtrip to and from work 44 miles. Gas tank holds about 1.6 gal maybe more,is the most I've chanced it to empty. 14 gram sliders got better mileage with 16 gram sliders and better mileage with 16gram rollers but slower acceleration I use GPS miles and gallons it says on the gas pump when I fill-up  octane I go about 8 miles at WOT at 50-55mph on my commute. Mainly flat ground with some slopes |
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Post by bwader on Apr 25, 2013 11:48:02 GMT -5
I was thinking if a stock 150cc top end is about 50-55mph and a stock 250cc top speed is around 65-70+mph then a 200cc I think would run a solid 60-65mph stock. I just wonder what performance it actually gets if you just took a stock 150cc and put in the 200cc. Then with upgrades. I'm sure we all think and wonder these things.  plain smiley face |
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Post by bwader on Apr 24, 2013 2:04:08 GMT -5
I'm just curious what kind of performance would come out of it. Good point, that would be some major rounding up to get "200cc". But if its a real 200cc that is a pretty good deal with an oil cooler. www.scrappydogscooters.com/125_150cc_Performance.htmlThere's another one below it that is 50 bucks more with Forward,Neutral, and reverse shifter |
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Post by bwader on Apr 24, 2013 0:14:01 GMT -5
Just wanting to hear people who tried this. I wouldn't I'd just get a 250cc scooter, or as a replacement engine
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Post by bwader on Apr 24, 2013 0:09:00 GMT -5
If you go online and get it insured first then go to the DMV to get your title. Mine was about 100 bucks a year with progressive but shop around like with anything for the best price
My scooter title cost $45 mostly taxes because Virginias not a state its a Commonwealth
You can get your registration the same day. Have $30 for it
Get your M/C permit or license if you don't have one yet
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Post by bwader on Apr 23, 2013 23:14:29 GMT -5
yeah, the weights are way to heavy. I'm running a HOCA 115mm variator with 11 gram weights and I get 57(gps confirmed) out of my 10" wheeled vintage (verano 150) and I weigh 310. Just curious, do you have an EGR head on yours? I had an emissions canister off the fuel tank I took off but still have. Off the pipe going to the muffler I cut the line and plugged it. It went to part of the snorkel. I plugged that end of the snorkel that used come from the exhaust. I did that mainly that the snorkel part broke and it was the easiest thing to do. Plus I didn't know before its designed to save gas. But oh well one less thing to worry about |
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Post by bwader on Apr 23, 2013 23:03:26 GMT -5
On my 2T I tried going from 6 grams to 4 grams and all it did was rev higher with a slower speed with top end loss . Pushing it to its max RPM can wear it out faster , have increased risk of damage and less MPG . Wow with that many diff weights I would think you could spend all day testing a restesting and hopefully get it to how you like it . Stock clutch and torque springs ? Instead of redlining it you might want to look into getting taller final drive gears instead Yes stock clutch and torque springs I got 10 gram sliders coming in the mail I ordered I figured the sliders 200-300 rpm change every gram change up or down. I consistently get 6,900 rpm WOT at around 50-54mph with 14 gram sliders so 13's 7,100-7200 12's 7,300-7,400 11's 7,500-7600 10's 7,700-7,800 rpms I chose 10's so I can have leeway when it comes to the wind on the highway. Plus if it is too much I can combo it 10's/14's and try that out. |
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Post by bwader on Apr 23, 2013 13:01:53 GMT -5
I'm glad I posted this question. Thanks all
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Post by bwader on Apr 22, 2013 11:58:20 GMT -5
I'm going to try this out at 3,000 miles. Wanted to hear what your experiences were.
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Post by bwader on Apr 22, 2013 11:52:23 GMT -5
On the 55mph highway wot my rpms range from 6,900 to 7,100 and my top speed was 54mph gps on that run.
16 gram sliders I drilled out the centers to make 14 gram sliders. Seems like I'm too heavy for the scooter to go past 7,200 rpms unless I'm behind a semi which rpms will go up to 7,300-7,500 and I finally feel that power range I keep reading about.
I got a new blue performance cdi and orange coil coming in to try out. I know people say it doesn't really do anything but I'm trying it.
I have stock black cdi and coil
I've tried a lot of different roller combinations all 9's, 10's, 12's, 13's , and 16's I liked the 16's the best for the lower rpm range but I still have trouble getting close to 7,500 rpms.
I've even tried 9's/16's 12's/16's 10's/13's.
I have been trying this goal but I just had it on the back burner I'm too heavy at 245 pounds for my scooter.
The 14gram sliders better than rollers I agree.
I would just like to run at the power range when I'm on the highway. I only have 3 miles but it would be nice to be able to overcome the wind and maintain 7,500 rpms. I have a windshield too.
So if I could get 8,000 rpms I could let off the throttle to get 7,500.
I don't think the cdi is rpm limited 150's aren't supposed to be.
My scooter should be able to hit 7,000-8,000 rpms even with me on it.
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Post by bwader on Apr 22, 2013 11:30:34 GMT -5
Update Replace hazard switch works great now! Replaced horn, works! So I've riden a few days to/from work 44 miles roundtrip. 3 days I rode it. Headlights though I don't know........... First day I started up good got about 5 miles into the ride and a nice guy at the stop light told me "Headlight!" then I looked and they were out.  I just put 40/45 watt headlights in the day before and finally got the little second little pair to light up too. So I knew it had to be the gang connector that connects the headlights. I pulled it out and reconnected many times, NO lUCK. So I had my co workers help. They work on cars and trucks but no scooter fixing. Its AC powered lights, come on when engine is running and get brighter with more throttle. So I barely got it to start upon finally going home. I should have charged it for a few minutes with the work 2amp/6 amp charger. Headlights not lit up, My RPM's are CRAZY going up and down. I'm seeing 7,500 8000 8500 6700 7200 Rpms on BOTH the stock tach gage and Tach/hour meter. At first I think FINALLY I got this scooter to get above 7,200 RPMS! ;D Then it hit me that my headlight problem is probably causing this. I stopped to get something out under the seat, stopping the engine (key pull out unlock seat). Then the battery was so drained it couldn't start. I waited 10 min pushing it down the road with key off to keep the battery rested before starting again. I tried again the starter was soooo weak and dying, no start. So lucky for me there was a fire station nearby up the road. Jumpstarted, put my tools in my pockets ( I'm not turning my engine off till I go home ) My Headlights were on then! So I charged my battery. Tried starting. Started easy literally a push and start with some throttle. Headlights burn but no secondary pair My questions are: Did I hook up the wrong connector (accessory instead?) Obviously a loose connection? I need better connectors? 4 wires White/Blue Headlights and brown/green pair are the secondary. So is it too much wattage being drawn? Stock headlights are 25 watt pair and new ones I put in are 40/45 watt pair. Is going from 50 watts to 80-  watts too much and draining the battery from not getting enough from running? Or is it I hooked up the accessory before. But I swear my headlights only come on when running all these changes. Is there another connection I don't know about? Right now my headlights come on like normal but go off after a bump. So it would have to be a loose connection. Or does the headlights only put out 50 watts combined to the 80- combined new headlight bulbs? Also my rpms aren t fluctuating anymore. |
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octane
watts too much and draining the battery from not getting enough from running?