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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 17, 2015 2:32:48 GMT -5
Thanks, that chart is very helpful. What I see though from this is top speed and acceleration are a trade off. I don't want to give up either but wouldn't mind noticeable gains to either. Does that mean that I'm already at where I need to be with the stock rollers? every rider is different. yes i liked the super fast acceleration of very light weights, but i found that 120 grams (244cc) was better suited for the type of riding i did. i had better high end performance. like one of the posts above says, you can buy a performance variator, and sliders, to tweak your performance. keep in mind that this will be a trial and error process, you will no doubt have to remove the variator a few times to get exactly what you want. this of course means you will need a few sets of sliders (or rollers) of slightly different weights and most come in packs of 6. i'm not a 50cc guy so i have no idea what size weights you should get. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 16, 2015 3:42:16 GMT -5
this link: fc.greensboroday.org/~epaynter/brcvtit's for a 244cc but the general trend should be obvious. every one of the numbers will no doubt be different for a 50cc, but the idea is clear. increasing the roller weight will give a slower acceleration but a higher top end also, keep in mind that max torque happens at a certain RPM. lighter weights will allow you to hit this RPM sooner, hence faster acceleration. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 15, 2015 22:55:25 GMT -5
it's a little too late for this, but tire shops will change your tires for you, especially if you purchase the tires there.
speaking of chinese rims, get rid of those OEM stems right now.
mine got so bad that i was afraid of checking the tire pressure for fear they would pop out and splat me right in the eye.
my ride had the 13" rims and took the 5/8" stubby stem.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 15, 2015 11:56:17 GMT -5
I have ordered many parts from Scrappydogscooters, but I have always done my own research to make sure what I am ordering will fit my moped. Only issue I have ever had is slow shipping but that has only happened once so not a big issue to me. the thing about chinese scooter parts is that there are really no "standards". it's not like going to NAPA and getting a drop-in replacement. my airbox for example, it fit the bike, but my CVT case wasn't the "standard" case. my engine is a 244cc, but the numbers stamped on the CVT suggests it came from a 2 cylinder air cooled engine. that's why none of the bolt holes lined up. stuff like this isn't scrappys fault. anyway, the airbox fit, i just had to do a little head scratching. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 15, 2015 11:40:34 GMT -5
it sounds like you are grounding out somewhere.
my guess would be the ignition switch, but it could be almost anywhere in the harness.
you should also be experiencing other symptoms too, such as hard starting and rough idle.
you said you replaced the stator, are you sure you routed the wires correctly and didn't pinch them in the engine casing?
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 15, 2015 3:34:32 GMT -5
can't get the link to work. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 10, 2015 0:12:11 GMT -5
as i said, i'm no expert, so i can't really give advice on this topic.
i know quite a bit about the wiring on my bike, but that's about it.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 9, 2015 22:59:03 GMT -5
the only place an oil cooler can be installed on this engine is between the oil sump outlet and the external oil line.
this would almost have to be cutting the external line and inserting the cooler.
the oil sump outlet is located behind the starter at the bottom of the engine. (between the starter and engine).
removing the starter will no doubt reveal if the external line has been cut to install the cooler.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 9, 2015 22:48:50 GMT -5
my advice:
take the cap off the radiator, then remove the lower hose from the water pump.
let all the "water" drain out, this might take some time if you have a thermostat installed.
re attach the hose and refill the radiator with an aluminum safe premixed antifreeze.
run the engine for about 10 to 15 minutes, let cool, and recheck the radiator and add coolant if needed.
if, what you say is true about the coolant, then it is IMPERATIVE to change ALL of the fluids on this bike.
coolant, oil, and final drive.
i would even suspect the brake fluid.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 9, 2015 22:21:11 GMT -5
Right Right side? No stamp where I think you're talking about    this, my friend is the 244cc honda clone. yes, it's water cooled. the engine i have did not come with an OEM oil cooler. in the bottom picture, one of the radiator hoses can be seen extending to the right bottom of the engine from the water pump. the other radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing just to the left of the carb looking down from above. at the top of the water pump is another hose with a "spring" on it that connects the pump to the block. i highly doubt if this engine has an oil cooler, because it still has the OEM external oil line. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 9, 2015 21:49:33 GMT -5
some fuses cannot be checked visually, they must be checked with an ohmmeter.
i'm not a pro on passant wiring, but it sounds like there is no power from the battery to the horn, quit possibly one of the pins in one of the connectors is bad.
also, if the horn only has one wire running to it, then it must be properly grounded.
if the horn has 2 wires running to it then it doesn't matter if the horn is grounded.
on modern cars, a "proper ground" is one that goes directly to the battery or the engine block.
another thing, i'm not sure about horns, but starters use what is known as a fusible link.
this isn't a fuse, but the wire itself.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 9, 2015 7:45:27 GMT -5
not sure if it falls in your guidelines, but i purchased a program that runs on a desktop computer called "talking maps" from cosmi software.
this program will allow to to use the "determine my best route" or it will let you decide on which route to take.
i found it best to let the program determine the best route, usually state and federal roads, then erase the route and determine my own route.
the route can be printed.
be advised this program is way out of date, at least by 10 years, so beware of roads that no longer exist. it might not even be sold anymore.
the program is reasonably accurate in estimating length and trip times.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 8, 2015 1:26:13 GMT -5
swapping the batteries would be a good idea.
putting one of them on a trickle charge (less than 2 amps) would be okay too.
things to not do:
don't ever charge at more than 2 amps.
don't remove the battery before it is fully charged.
don't let a battery go completely dead.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 5, 2015 9:03:11 GMT -5
if you plan on taking a van, then problem solved.
the first thing you need to do is draw up some kind of "flight plan", the route you are taking, designated stopping points, etc.
make sure everyone is familiar with it, and that everyone carries a cell phone and the charger for it.
wearing backpacks and fanny packs can give you a lot of storage.
if the backpacks are too big, then the front rider of a 2 up situation might not be able to wear one.
the number one item (besides a cell phone) is a spare 1 or 2 gallon gas can.
i sat mine between my feet and bungied the handle loosely to the bikes frame.
number 2 on the list would be tools. my ride only required a small assortment of sockets to service the entire bike, and they could all fit in a fanny pack that weighed about 5 pounds.
the big item was the 13 inch breaker bar, which i bungied to one of the inside rails of my bike.
make absolutely certain this is bungied properly OR YOU WILL LOSE IT.
if your scoot is water cooled, then you will want to carry water too, 2 liters should be plenty.
other spare parts you might consider is a CDI and a drive belt.
put a paper clip on your keyring, and use it in case your sparkplug boot somehow malfunctions. this little piece of wire can get you home when nothing else will.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 2, 2015 17:54:18 GMT -5
I'm trying to find ways of making my gy6 engine run better and more reliably. check your oil before every ride, and refill if needed. keep your oil changed, it doesn't require much oil so changing it once a month is no big deal. check your air breather, keep it clean and change it when needed to improve gas mileage. change out the OEM spark plug with an iridium one. these buggers are expensive but worth it. replace the tire valve stems with quality ones. this will depend on what kind of chinese ride you have. if you get a good one, nothing. if you get a "bad" one, be prepared to pull your hair out screaming. i had 2 chinese rides, a good one and a bad one, both served me well except i had to do a lot of work on the bad one. what ever you want to make. my bad ride would only allow me to ride about 3 or 4 miles before it overheated. i slowly ironed out the problems with it to where i could ride the crap out of it all day long in  degree weather. no. i put 10,000 miles on my bike and replaced the belt once. if you are experiencing belt breakage, then you have some kind of problem in the CVT, or you are getting cheap belts. [/quote] |
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degree weather.