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scooter keys
by: dollartwentyfive - May 12, 2023 18:56:02 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on May 12, 2023 18:56:02 GMT -5
Hello scoot friends-- I've not been able to find an answer from a google search and so I thought I'd bring my question here-- I've got a Lance Cali Classic 150cc and have lost the only(!) keys I had for the ignition. I'm pretty desperate to find replacements, as it's my only major form of transportation, but I don't know that this is even possible? Does anyone have any experience/wisdom when it comes to Lance Cali keys and how I'd problem-solve my situation? Thanks so much-- any advice appreciated! the only solution is to remove the old lockset and replace it, especially if it locked the front wheel.
"hot wiring" the scoot will not work because the ignition switch grounds the pulse pick-up in the "off" position. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Mar 29, 2023 19:47:25 GMT -5
Hi All Hank here Any of my old friends still around? It's been a while and would love to catch up with you all Take care and ride safely Yours Hank i'm from the old site and i can't remember my old screen name.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Nov 7, 2021 0:14:59 GMT -5
there are a number of things that destroys oil.
1. condensation. this is the number one reason why short trips (to the store and back) are so hard on your oil.
2. combustion by-products. not a real problem unless you have other problems with it (bad rings, etc).
3. metal particles. these are mostly filtered but the tiniest particles get through and these are the problem.
seeing as these scoots use so little oil for an oil change you can easily change it once a month and practically eliminate all of the above problems. any good name brand oil will work as long as it's rated "SE" (severe environment). IOW "oil for motorcycles".
there used to be a poster on the old scootdawg forum by the name of terra nova that came up with a recipe for "boronated oil". a lot of the posters agreed with his claims that it improved engine performance and reduced noise.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Nov 10, 2020 20:38:24 GMT -5
WHY?
why sell out a popular forum that had a large number of daily posts, only to become a ghost of what it was?
i have thought often of you my friend.
Haven't been this sad over the end of a dawg since I watched "Old Yeller" as a kid. (Goodbye old friend, I'll miss you more than words can say.) - spandi
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Aug 26, 2020 18:52:50 GMT -5
i would also consider doing a valve adjustment on both of them.
also, getting as much gas as you can into a gas tank is never a good idea because it WILL expand.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jul 30, 2020 11:23:41 GMT -5
no, your old when you can remember going to your friends house because they had a color TV.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 24, 2020 8:00:06 GMT -5
i'm kind of leery about chinese rides, mainly because i used to own one and i know what a headache they can be. now that scrappy is gone and i'm not sure about PFS (what happened to them) parts can be a problem. the local parts dealer (which was 50 miles from here) is no longer in business.
that's a nice looking ride though, but here again i'm aware that all isn't what it seems in regards to chinese rides.
i've run across some decent priced burgman 400s for 3 grand but all of them are hundreds of miles from here.
thanks for the link, i bookmarked it and i'll keep my ears to the ground.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 23, 2020 16:57:53 GMT -5
the first thing you need to do is determine where the failure is.
there are 3 basic parts to the odo.
the pickup on the front wheel, the cable that goes to the cluster, and the odometer itself.
the first thing to do is determine if the front wheel rotation is being transmitted to the cluster.
remove the cable from the cluster and rotate the front wheel, if you can see the cable turning then the problem is in the cluster.
if the cluster is at fault then you have 2 options depending on whether the cluster is all electronic or mechanical.
if its mechanical then disassemble the cluster and spray the mechanical parts with WD-40.
if all electronic then it needs replaced, and it must be replaced with one for your specific wheel size.
if your ride has a 13" wheel then the odo must be for 13" wheels.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 22, 2020 9:29:25 GMT -5
for 3k you can get a new 300 China scooter no problem or a 400 used Bergman almost all 300china bikes are actually a 257, plus, if i go chinese it would have to be the 244 and they aren't made anymore AFAIK.
i'm leaning towards a good used helix but i don't like the small tires or the rear drum brake, although i guess i could swap out the old engine in my old chinese bike, but that would mean replacing A LOT of parts.
a 350 or 400 bergman sounds really good to me, the problem with that is lack of local dealers, there are 2 within 100 miles of where i live and neither of them have any used bergmans in my price range.
i'm sure i'll find something
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 21, 2020 16:06:11 GMT -5
i tried adjusting my slide needle, but even 1 notch up or down resulted in a worse situation.
i've have very few carburetor problems, sticky float, incorrect choke. cracked intake. my carb was OEM though.
the issue with the needle is probably wear. the sides should come uniformly to a point, the sides shouldn't be concave.
also, when reassembling the slide, make sure the slide is pushed all the way up before tightening the cover screws.
i've been thinking about getting a used helix because i really do miss riding.
does anyone know what i can get for about 3 grand?
a helix goes for about 2 grand (roughly), but what about a bergman? or a yamaha?
it has to be a twist and go though.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 21, 2020 5:34:24 GMT -5
i've noticed the links for the service manual in my last post doesn't work here is an alternate source. this link includes manuals for a variety of bikes and you want the honda helix or honda elite 250. both of these for years 1985-1988 www.motorscooterguide.net/Downloads/Downloads.html |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 20, 2020 10:19:34 GMT -5
Thanks! I checked it out and the rubber o-ring had come apart. It was half out of the hole. I replaced the choke w/a new one and took it for a ride, same problem. Nature of the issue was exactly the same. Back to the drawing board😥 the problem will not be solved by replacing the choke with a 12v model unless the OEM choke is a 12v model.
apparently you do not understand the issue with the honda 244cc. the issue is the 244cc has a choke that runs directly off the alternator. the alternator produces an AC voltage well in excess of 12DC, somewhere in the neighborhood of 70v. replacing this choke with a 12v model will result in an IMMEDIATE burnout.
i replaced my choke 3 times before i realized this.
i finally came up with a workable solution. i had to tear apart one of the old chokes to see how it worked, then i used a second one to fashion the replacement. i didn't have starting problems until the temp fell into the low 50s, but a simple hand over the intake for a moment while starting worked. my intake was an airbox that rested on top of the CVT. i didn't have to dismount to choke it.
anyway, good luck.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 19, 2020 22:15:09 GMT -5
another name for the valve is the air cutoff valve. (check number 6 below) here's a good resource for you, some good stuff at this site:
engine service manuals: |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 19, 2020 15:20:29 GMT -5
the only way i know of to check for correct cam timing is through the plug hole on the right side of the engine.
this is VERY HARD to do with one person because you need to verify if there actually is a mark.
i can't imagine a cam manufacturer not marking their cams.
i never had to deal with this on my engine so i'm not too sure of the procedures.
i highly suspect that choke though.
replacing it will do no good unless you get it from a honda dealer, and honda dealers don't want to sell parts for non honda products.
almost all of the problems i had with my ride was electrical.
the choke was one of them.
an intermittent short was another, it wasn't enough to blow fuses but was enough to prevent WOT.
it took me 6 months to whip that beast into shape, but once there she stayed there until she died.
and i rode it HARD.
about 4 years ago i had it cranked out on a country road and the engine let go with what reminded me of the starter clutch engaging.
it ground to a stop within 2 seconds and hasn't started since.
RIP buddy, yeah she was my friend.
okay, enough of that.
you can find some excellent service manuals online for this engine.
look for a cn250 honda helix service manual.
it's too bad i can't upload them to you.
good luck
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 19, 2020 9:32:59 GMT -5
Yes, I feel I am throwing a lot of repairs at this issue too! But thankfully its not my main bike so I can take some time w/it. Does the air bypass valve have another name? I googled it for my cvk carb but couldn’t find anything in the diagrams, and everything is connected properly. The choke seems to be working perfectly. Its a genuine Honda unit & the system is 12volt. It pulls off after about 3-5 min. Getting back to the timing, its an after-market cam (endigo rock crawler) & I’ve read that these could be off by a couple teeth & the motor will start and run fine, except for higher rpms. I have a timing light gun, can this be checked? Thanks for any insights. i'm not sure if the valve has another name. i also believe the OEM carb is 172mm.
the timing issue can be addressed by removing the plug, use a coat hanger to determine TDC, then notching the crank. you can then use a strobe. plus, there is a plug on the right side of the engine that can be removed and you can view a mark to determine if the cam has been timed properly. this process is very difficult to do visually without a strobe.
be aware that the 244 uses what it called a "wasted spark" ignition timing, the plug fires both at the end of the exhaust stroke and again at the end of compression.
also, DO NOT use the running method to set the valve gap. honda specs calls for this gap to be set with the valves cold and the engine not running.
replace the plug with an iridium plug, pricey but well worth it. this alone solved a number of my idling problems.
once you get all the bugs out of this 244 you'll find it to be a fantastic ride. mine could easily do 70mph and got between 52-55mpg. i used 20gram rollers.
also, do not use "thread lockers" or "gasket sealers" on your 244. remember, these engines are ALUMINUM and are easily damaged by the use of such compounds. use only fluids safe for aluminum engines.
questions: did you buy the bike new or used? does your bike have 1 or 2 radiators? are you SURE the choke is 12 volt? the bike might be 12v but the choke doesn't run off the 12v system, it runs off the alternator.
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