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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 2, 2015 8:04:49 GMT -5
Well this all started yesterday while i was at work. Its been raining and chilly here in nc and ill leave my scoot out in the rain til i get off work and it seems the weather is making my rear brake lever stick... To the point where im reving it and its stuck in one spot? It only started happening latly and it only does it at the first couple stop lights then shes good.. Shes running good minus squeaky brakes and pluged and slimed tire but darn im lost... Wd 40 maybe...? Recent oil change havnt checked gear oil at all. How would i check gear oil? No dipstick i kknow that.. Anybody got a used 12 inch tire they want to get rid of? Thank you all! the brake issue depends on if you have cable or hydraulic. the first thing i would check is the brake lever itself. make sure it moves freely in its mount. second would be the cable (if you have one). your best bet here is a replacement. if you have hydraulic brakes then the issue is most likely inside the drum, or in the case of disc brakes the caliper is sticking. whatever you do, DO NOT get grease or oil on the braking surfaces. if in doubt about this, then clean with 70% rubbing alcohol, not once, not twice, but 3 times. the symptoms say you might have cable brakes and water has gotten into the jacket. or that the cable itself is frayed. i recommend cable replacement, keeping the old cable and inspecting it. if the old cable is not worn, then keep it for a backup. gear boxes are filled with the scoot on the centerstand until the lube starts running out of the fill hole. fill until lube starts running out, then replace the fill screw. buy a new tire, do not inherit someone elses problems. tire sizes are usually designated as x/y-z, replacing the x, y, z, with what is on the old tire. keep an eye on tire pressure, under or over inflation will reduce the life of your tires. replace the OEM valve stems, these chinese stems are rotten from the factory.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 1, 2015 10:31:44 GMT -5
i ran regular unleaded, no ethanol, in my 244cc for 9,000 miles with no problems. also, there seems to be differences in the quality of gas at various stations. i always got my gas at 1 of 2 places, while in town. out of town i would try to find the same brand of gas if i could. on long runs, you might try some octane booster if you have questions about the quality of gas you are getting. my ride also overheated, and badly, when i first got it. i couldn't ride it for more than about 3 or 4 miles before the red light came on. and it wasn't due to a gas issue. the steps i took to eliminate this issue: 1. removed the thermo, but i kept it. 2. wired the fans to continually run. 3. drilled holes in my CVT cover. these weren't randomly placed. i drilled 12 (9/16)" holes directly over the variator. the idea here is to suck fresh air into the case by the holes and exhaust it from the back of the case. this alone probably accounted for half of my overheating problems. my case was all metal, and it would get so hot, i'm surprised the belt didn't melt. i couldn't keep my hand on it for more than a second. after drilling the holes, the cover felt slightly warm. after making the above mods, i could WOT all day long in degree heat. other things you might check, make sure none of your hoses are collapsed. there are no restrictions (smaller diameter hoses).
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 1, 2015 10:21:49 GMT -5
i hate electrical issues, because they are one of the hardest gremlins to eradicate. i got tired of screwing around with my issues to the point where i ripped all the wiring out and installed quality connectors and switches. my bike never failed to start after doing that. i had one issue after that, but it was my fault. i allowed a loop of wire to entangle the forks, and the fork stops crushed and frayed the wire. it took me a full day to locate this fault, and the symptoms were like those of "running out of gas". the scoot would start, but it would miss, and it wouldn't come up to speed. i will almost bet your problem is electrical. i will also say it's a connection or a faulty switch.
go over your ride with a fine toothed comb, clean the connections and give each one just a little bite with needle nose pliars. test your switches with an ohm meter.
another area is grounds. my ride had a ground wire, it did not use the frame for ground except the spark plug. all of the other grounds use this ground wire by soldered connections.
one of the best things about these chinese rides is that its YOURS, you can do things like rewiring it without voiding a warranty. you can make any adjustment needed to make it work.
like i said, i finally got tired of my scoot not cooperating, went out and bought quality switches (some of them wasn't even intended to be used like i was going to use them), bought quality crimp on connectors, and a crimping tool, and went to work. the very first thing i noticed was i didn't have a schematic, so i had to make my own. long story short, it never failed to start after that.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Nov 26, 2015 18:33:13 GMT -5
well, maybe this will give PFS the chance to put a double warning on this particular part. *CAUTION* *WARNING* make certain of your measurements BEFORE ordering this part ! !
also, add something that will show where to take the measurement.
this sort of feedback is VITAL to dealers, in that it gives them a chance to better serve the public.
sorry OP, due to your "in the ballpark" measurement, you ordered the wrong part.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Nov 21, 2015 6:59:04 GMT -5
meh, you know the drill. crappy chinese standards spawns another dissatisfied customer. the sad part is, it's the dealer that gets blamed for it. the local dealer here (which is 30 miles from here) wouldn't have exchanged the part. he has repeatedly told me "if you leave here with it, don't bring it back". the good thing about that is, i can usually bring the old part for comparison. even that isn't always a gaurentee it will work. the autochoke on my bike is a typical example of this. apparently there are 2 types, AC and DC. one runs off the stator, the other runs off 12 volts DC. they are identical but they cannot be interchanged. leave it to the chinese to come up with something like that. i finally got tired of replacing mine, so i tore apart an old one to figure out how i could get my ride to run without it. i finally got the job done but had to hand choke the engine in cold weather to start it, otherwise the bike ran fine.
honestly, PFS is not a shady dealer
we all have to face it, you MUST be a reasonably competent mechanic to own a chinese ride.
i had to replace the radiator on my ride, and i sure wasn't going to spend a 100 bucks for this little thing. so i got the bright idea of using an old car heater core. i cussed and swore and chopped and sawed, but i got it to work. it even worked better than the original. yeah, i tend to ramble . . .
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Nov 19, 2015 16:06:22 GMT -5
i don't recommend a nylon type of lock nut on exhaust studs. double nutting with maybe a lock washer inbetween them would probably be better. if ran too long without a nut will most likely cause gasket failure.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Nov 19, 2015 1:01:22 GMT -5
i gotta get in here too.
ordering parts for chinese rides IS NOT like going to NAPA and getting a drop in part. granted, most parts, like CDIs, solenoids, and light bulbs are pretty well across the board interchangable. a few more, although not drop in parts, can be made to fit.
it's always wise to include measurements with your order.
i too have ordered parts from PFS, and have no real complaints.
matt has a point about customers putting a spin on things. he is also correct when he says he is fair IF you are fair.
remember, if the part you are ordering cannot be modified to fit, then take your measurements and send them with your order. this is a fault of the chinese for failing to have standards and making them known to the dealers.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Oct 25, 2015 2:15:09 GMT -5
i can give some general pointers. use nylon zip ties to secure your wires, do not use bread ties or other forms of wire. sections of garden hose can be used where scuffing might be a problem. sections of inner bicycle innertube can be used to waterproof your switches. do not twist and tape, used quality crimp on connectors beware of fork movement and other pivoting locations. use rubber stand offs between fans and radiators.
my scoot did not have a blocking diode and i have no idea why it would be needed.
i've found that almost 80% of the problems with my scoot was electrical in nature. after rewiring, it never failed to start.
do you have the 244 or the 257? i believe the MC-54b is the 244, correct?
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Oct 13, 2015 10:44:48 GMT -5
another thing you might try to get the gas smell out. put your clothes in a trash bag along with some crumpled up newspaper. you might need to change the paper a couple of times. this newspaper trick works for a lot of stubborn odors. i don't know if it will work on "open air" things, but for sealed items it works great. apparently the carbon used in the ink is what adsorbs the odor.
thanks for the heads up to always check the nozzle handle. you got really lucky on this one.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Oct 8, 2015 9:05:15 GMT -5
my opinion is that the downhill ride provided the "extra horsepower" that was needed to fully open up the rear pulley.
i wonder if a slightly narrower belt would have the same effect, maybe 1/16 of an inch less.
it's too bad we don't have "adjustable" belts.
BTW, does anyone know if they still sell the 244cc scooter? is the roketa mc54b a 244cc? if anyone knows a wholesaler, i have a dealer that will order it for me.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 28, 2015 3:57:06 GMT -5
It has been sitting a while. I got it without a key so I took the ignition apart and am turning the rear part plastic ignition, but all the lights work and motor turns over good with the starter. Both coils I've tried have same resistance reading, all well as anther one I tested. I've tried three different plug wires, 3 spark plugs. Cleaned the ground s on the frame and valve cover. I don't understand what could be causing the issue. the problem could be the ignition switch itself. part of the job of the ingition switch is to act as a kill switch for the pulse pickup in the off position. since color codes aren't standardized on chinese scoots i can only offer a suggestion. there should be a stripped wire running to the switch. cut this wire in such a way that you can re attach it if needed. the wire on my bike was red/yellow stripped. the ignition switch grounds this wire to kill the motor. if you go this route, remember that you must ground this wire manually to kill the engine. if the above works, then the problem is definitely the switch. let us know.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 23, 2015 23:00:10 GMT -5
Laugh at me if you want, scooter, but according to Ford it isn't really a CVT tranny. Although that seems to be what most folks call them. The Ford mech said it's some sort of double-clutch system that makes a manual automatic. Which is even more "whatever" from me. The actual jargonese is in my sig-line. If it means anything more to you. >'Kat the twist an go type of motorcycle/scooter uses the CVT type of transmission. the transmission that you speak of is a DCT, a dual clutch transmission. read more here: www.digitaltrends.com/cars/road-rave-the-wide-world-of-modern-transmissions/
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 23, 2015 5:26:51 GMT -5
The problem is she just went through this and would have had to replace literally every single thing besides the crank and topend. Luckily she found someone who wanted to buy it off her for parts for the same amount she bought it for so I told her to just get a new one to avoid that again and have been helping her to find one since. the new ones can be just as bad. my 250 only had 80 miles on it, so it came that way. the major problem, well 2 problems, was the electrical system was a pile of junk and the cooling system was also a pile of junk. also, this bike had numerous small bugs in the design. the CVT wasn't vented properly, which aided the over heating problem. i couldn't ride this thing more than a few miles before it over heated. the radiators were the next step up from cardboard. the electrical system caused me more anguish than i want to remember. but, like i said, after ironing out these problems, this bike was a winner. the engine was all but bullet proof. the mechanical parts of this bike was quality stuff, it was the rest of the bike that was crap. the only thing i did to the engine was set the valves and install an iridium plug. i did the regular oil change of course, one of the best things you can do for your ride is to change the oil regularly and often. these are high RPM engines and they need that protection. i point this stuff out because you have a chance of getting a bad bike when it really isn't the dealers fault. a high volume dealer just can't ride every bike they get, which must be done if you want a chinese scooter that is 100%. my experience tells me to stick with CFMOTO, even though my bike gave me headaches. why? because the mechanical parts was quality material. i put almost 10,000 miles on my 250 and the clutch shoes were barely worn, they could have easily lasted 100,000 miles, no joke. the bearings in the final drive were japanese bearings, grade A material. if i had the chance to buy another bike just like mine at the same price i paid, i would jump all over it, then leave in a hurry before the seller changed his mind. meh, i ramble too much
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 22, 2015 23:22:39 GMT -5
i found my 50cc locally for 300 bucks. (used) it was a really decent chinese scooter and probably still out there running. i found my 250cc semi locally for 1000 bucks with 80 miles on it. this scooter was a total pain in the butt until i ironed out all the problems with it. after i ironed out the problems, she was a real screamin' queen.
so beware, there are good ones and bad ones.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Sept 21, 2015 1:39:21 GMT -5
Hmmm...
A pound of C-4 in the scooter storage area attached to a motion-sensor and the miscreant wouldn't be stealing anything more, the only problem with this scenario is forgetting to disable it. my ride is too heavy to be picked up and put in a truck, and too big to put in a van by one person. so i usually just run the chain through the frame and rear wheel. yep, you guessed it, i jumped on it one day and tried to go somewhere only to be stopped because . . . i forgot to remove the chain. i can only imagine what would have happened if i had it rigged to explode. you really can't do too much to completely stop theft, but you can make it difficult. i used the biggest link chain i could find, these links were at least the thickness of my thumb. a bolt cutter would have a hard job of cutting those links. chain your bike to an immovable object, parking lot lamp post for example. keep your ride covered at home.
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