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unplug stator plug and see if coils are good with ohm meter.

yellow to engine ground .7 ohms
white to engine ground .8 ohms

if the yellow is open that is the problem.

you have the wrong regulator

you have a full wave R/R (needs a floating ground Stator)

You need a half wave R/R

this is what they look like



this is the inside


yellow connects to reg is used for ligjhts
white connects to regulator is used to feed regulator "must be used"

red out to batt,, not used

Black ground as is the metel case is ground also.


If you use one of these it will work No Problem.

Too use your reg/ref you need to rewire your stator for floating ground.

read this mastercircuits.blogspot.com/2012/07/half-wave-to-full-wave-conversion.html

The LED's work but you have to connect them backwards. They only work one way they are diodes,,


you have the wrong stator for that regulator. you can rewire the stator and make it work, or get the regulator that goes with the stator you have.

this is what you got

this is your stator


this is the connections



Update------------------------------------------------
It is possible to use the 5 wire reg if you isolate the ground in the electrical system. Since you have a Rat setup and you will be wiring each circuit manually here is what you do.

Stator wire green and white go th AC input on reg.
Black wire and red wire from reg bond together.
Green from reg floating ground. This cannot be connected to the frame in anyway. It must stay isolated from the chassie.


The AC from the stator will now enter the regulator and be regulated at about 14 volts AC. To connect the lights connect to the AC lines from the stator. This will be full wave AC regulated at 14 volts.
Connect your CAP and other DC loads to the Red/Green out of the reg. Never connect the green to the Chassis ground because that is being used by the stator and you can share both.

update----------------------------
here is a diagram showing the connections


I hooked mine up this way and had a beautifully bright halogen headlight with leds tail and brake.

Headlight runs on AC fullwave AC. For max power to lamp.
the regulator shunts /regulates the AC side. The rectifier changes AC to DC for the DC output.
This works with no load at the DC side.

You can't measure the output with a meter so hook a lamp to the AC or DC side to test. A 10 watt will do. If you try to measure this with a digital meter it wont display the correct voltage because it is so ragged. You can look at it on an oscilloscope but who's got one of those laying around.

I use a C-clamp to break the bead.
I use flat head screwdrivers to walk the tires on and off.
I decided to use innertubes with these tires.


First time is a real pain, but if you do it a few times it gets easy.

I keep extra tires on hand and new inner tubes.

Lubricate the kick start with oil or mix a little oil with grease to make a thin sticky oily goo. Pull the side cover and lube the kick start and remove the Starter drive and and lube it also.

Buy a new Carburetor. Keep the old one for spare parts. Everyone should have an extra carburetor, make life easier.

The Best product to lube the kick start is Fluid Film. This stuff is amazing.
www.ebay.com/itm/Fluid-Film-Rust-And-Corrosion-Protection-11-3-4-Oz-Aerosol-752-500-/330862399500?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D300768183446%26ps%3D54

I added a 6' length of wire to the Headlamp ground side to act as a resistor to limit the voltage to the headlight, That fixed the headlight overvoltage issue.

I hooked the 4 coils to the rectifier/regulator and it is working as well.
The SCR/Zener cutout voltage is 14.56. too high as 14.1 will will start the battery to boil. I plan on adding a 10 amp diode at the feed point to adjust the charge voltage to 13.9. next i need to add larger wire from stator and use fuses as a fire safety.

Then add the HID lamp.

This stator and Regulator works good but I have a ratical idea to double the lighting output from a stock stator.

To increase the output power I will increase the voltage by x2.

The 8 pole stator has 7 poles wound in magnet wire providing the Inductor to power the electrical system.
2 volts at each coil is the average output rating. I propost to double the voltage to 4 volts and leave the amprege the same increasing the power output to double.


To do this i need to rewire the stator once again.
2 seperate circuits.
4 coils x4volts=16 volts
3 coils x4volts = 12 volts

4 coil wrap will be isolated fulwave output to regulator for battery and HID lamp
3 coil wrap will be AC to separate regulator to 50 watt Headlamp.

Scooter at idle will not provide enough voltage. at cruise speed this all changes. It's a tradeoff. But for 6000 lumens of light it's wort it.

HID 4000 lumens
50watt halogen 1800 lumens

Here's a stator that has been reconnected 3x4



connectiond will be enclosed in epoxy




The Three coils wired to a 65 watt headlight work great, the engine speed at 2500 rpms brings the lamp to full brightness and the regulator is regulating at 15+volts. I need to run the power through a bridge rectifier to drop the voltage 1.2 volts so the lamp won't burn out to quick.
It's insane how bright that headlight gets