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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 7, 2013 6:02:05 GMT -5
Transistor is shorted out in the regulator will cause a no volt reading when everything is pluged in.
If you unplug the regulator/spin the engine with starter, "don't start it up it will blow the bulbs" you should see the light glow.
Also you can check the terminal to ground (on the regulator) with a diode multimeter and see the short.
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 6, 2013 23:24:25 GMT -5
When the write up is complete i can transfer it's html/bb code over to tips.. Using WP is just way easy in the drafting stage. Also Search bot(s) will pick it up and It will show on Google and other search engines.
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 6, 2013 22:59:21 GMT -5
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 6, 2013 21:03:56 GMT -5
put a tube in it
end of story
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 6, 2013 12:52:02 GMT -5
I have a scrap engine i parted out (long case) and need a 139qmb short case (with rear end gears and a short shaft 10" wheels ) for a new build.
It's a spare build I will set in a used crank and a used 44mm cly/piston.
So I am looking for a complete core or a partial case. with cyl studs. cheap.
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 6, 2013 12:36:55 GMT -5
Take it all the way down and inspect clean reassemble with good parts.
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 6, 2013 12:35:48 GMT -5
I'm running with no screen, 12000 miles and no oil related issues. Although I make sure never to get dirt in there. Clean the dipstick before removing it. You can run without one but the risk goes up.
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 6, 2013 6:08:46 GMT -5
disconnect starter wire. Turn scooter on see if brake light is stuck on. Possible but not so likely: sounds like a backfeed of electrical power coming through the tail light. Disconnect the plug to the tail light assembly and see if the circumstance goes away. If so there is a short in either the lamp itself or the 2 contacts on the end of the bulb are touching. Thus feeding 12 volts back through the brake light circuit to the starter solenoid/ relay Yeah!!!   |
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 5, 2013 22:42:50 GMT -5
That's so me in another life  |
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 5, 2013 13:02:32 GMT -5
I sanded the surface well so the epoxy sticks and worked out the focal point and epoxyed the lamp mount on the scooter reflector with cotton weave cloth.   |
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 5, 2013 12:56:03 GMT -5
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 5, 2013 12:09:29 GMT -5
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 5, 2013 8:35:41 GMT -5
 This is Scrappy's 100cc 139qmb. it comes with the extra long shaft. Should work, maybe not, you may need to use your gear set on the new motor so keep it, don't throw it out. As far as changing out a crankshaft, after you drain the oil and pull the engine, get a flywheel puller and impact, removing and replacing the crankshaft is easy. My first crank loosened up at 9000 miles, I swapped in a used one. Ran it 6000 miles. It came loose. I swapped in a Scrappy's new crank and 47mm bore.  |
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 5, 2013 8:05:51 GMT -5
Don't listen to him, Paint it PINK with Glitter.   Hello Kitty works, You will be so into picking up chics you will need to get a Ninja to outrun them all. I know, cause I'm the Man. I can Prove it watch M13 he knows. |
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Post by chihuahuas on Apr 5, 2013 7:33:34 GMT -5
Changing tires is an art. It requires practice.
I use a clamp to break the bead.
I use inner tubes. Yes on tubeless.
I keep spare tubes on hand.
I keep spare tires on hand.
Tubeless scooter tires are all-ways leaking down, Tubes don't leak down. Until you get a hole in them then it's no fixing it on the fly.
Now days if I get a flat I call a tow truck and get it home and fix it there.
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