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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 23, 2013 11:04:17 GMT -5
I have updated the original post I have it working but not with the new hid yet, still waiting on it.
The way I understand it is the HID's will strike a spark 27000 volts to start the lamp then trim to 18000 volts to burn.
7 amps to strike and 3 amps to burn.
Also there is a DC and AC variants Ballast.
AC Ballast are DC powered but send out AC to the transformer then feed the lamp. They say the lamp will wear evenly on both electrodes this way and extend the lamp life to 3000+ hours.
DC ballast (cheap to manufacture) supply a dc pulse to the lamp and causes the electrodes to wear on one side. Bulb Life 2000 hours.
Average life span of a scooter is 300-400 hours so there you go!!!!
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 22, 2013 9:58:10 GMT -5
""FIRST DRAFT""" Replace 35 watt incandescent headlight with HID 35 watt. Tasks: Convert Headlight power to DC regulated 14.5 volts a. rewire stator (floating ground) b. add fullwave rectifier/regulator (125-150cc) c. feed power to Battery and old lighting circuit to power auto choke Notes: AC wires from stator (run new wires)need to be run new to feed power directly to R/R. DC from Regulator to battery need a wire size upgrade. Ignition switch needs to supply 12dc to R/R to turn it on before starting engine. Rewire stator: (add pics diagrams) Layout of Stock Stator  Make connection between magnet wire and yellow wire  R/R hookup: (add images diagrams)   Connecting to scooter electrical system: Adding HID to scooter. Completed Task-------------------------------------------------- 1 reconnect stator ----- DONE add Regulator/Rectifier---- DONE run engine with load Battery and led lights volts at Idle 14.44 Run engine with 50watt load 12.80 volts at Battery Idle. Note the wires on the scooter are small gauge and they have some voltage drop to lamp load. Lamp it rated at 65 watts but 10 volts is the reading at the lamp so there is a 2 volt drop from using the small wires on the harness. The HID lamp install will need a relay and the right size gauge wire pulling off the battery. I am waiting for the ebay HID to arrive so i'm in a hold right now. Cheers to the Amp Queen. |
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 22, 2013 9:17:50 GMT -5
Hook it up and it should run fine. There are 4 charge passes every one revolution per spark so the position /orientation of the charging coil relating to the firing point timimg has no effect. It simply charges a cap and the trigger point discharges the cap to collapse the field in the coil to create a spark.
CDI
Capacitor Discharge Ignition
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 21, 2013 11:03:16 GMT -5
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 21, 2013 10:50:22 GMT -5
Chihuahua
Chihuahua Carry Pouch
Chihuahua stress tablets
Chihuahua Treats
Chihuahua Female scent smelly stuff
Spare Belt
Cell
Ham Radio 2 meter
Weather Radio
Marine Radio
Police Scanner
Radar Jammer
Strobe light to green light signal priority
Cell Phone Jammer
Soda
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gasoline
by: chihuahuas - Mar 21, 2013 10:27:37 GMT -5
Post by chihuahuas on Mar 21, 2013 10:27:37 GMT -5
My Scooter gets premium from a 3 hose pump. It starts better hot and cold.
144qmb with stock air filter and cdi.
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 20, 2013 10:15:19 GMT -5
put a 44mm 63cc top end in there and she will scoot real good.
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 20, 2013 9:52:54 GMT -5
Could use a 3 phase regular "shunt SCR" to run a 2 phase configuration like this. Either Y or Delta. My money is on the Y for low rpm high voltage output.  Here is a hacked 3 phase delta configurered stator diagram  could use the off the shelf 3 phase reg Rec either way. |
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 19, 2013 11:13:03 GMT -5
I'm running a 65 watt halogen seal beam rat headlight and no battery on a 50cc 139(44)qmb and it has been flawless for 2 years. This raised the guestion, how is it possible to pull full power from the lighting coil and use nothing on the battery side. Well led taillight is the only load on the battery side. Next step is to go with an HID headlamp and to do so means a redo of the stock config to a fullwave floating systen like the 150s use. Problem there is the use a wierd stator config like the 50cc use except it is bigger. 100watts. I will have to understand what is going on clearly in these systems to change rewire mine to a full wave 1 coil or a dual coil strapped in phase config to see this to work.  |
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 19, 2013 10:47:41 GMT -5
Its a fractional fullwave system. First the lighting coil does all the work. The second coil (charging coil) is 180 degrees out of phase and works to delete current/voltage output from the lighting coil. As a by product DC is available to feed the battery at the second coil in the reverse phase.. ---------------------Disclamer--------------------- ""This is a totally Abstract way of looking at it. It is Not accurate at all"" -------------------------------------------------------- Got IT. 1st coil pumps out full power 80 watts 2nd coil pulls in full power 80 watts these cancel each other out. So add a load 35 watt lamp. lighting coil passes 35 watts to ground and the second coil drains off the other 45 watts co phase and cancels out the overload. Pretty Awesome. So in reality you can disconnect the second coil and invert it to in phase and double the output of the system and probably melt the windings. Jump in any thoughts ...  |
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 19, 2013 8:39:20 GMT -5
pump the throttle 3 times
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 18, 2013 11:28:46 GMT -5
When I run at 1/2 tooth advanced the power is way down and it coughs back through the carb. When it runs 1/2 tooth retarted is has great power and runs really well although the idle fissels out. Here is what it should look like.  Alleyoop Here is where TDC lines up on the flywheel  |
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Post by chihuahuas on Mar 17, 2013 10:06:02 GMT -5
at 9000 miles the crankshaft bearing came loose, (bearing was loose on variator side of crankshaft).
Replaced crankshaft with used one, alls fine ran to 14000 miles and it did the same thing.
On inspection the bearing comes loose at the press fit. This is just odd. Something wrong with the hardness of the steel. I don't know.
This time I noticed it early and ordered a new crankshaft. Split the case and replaced the crankshaft and it ran fine but wouldn't idle.
""there was an alignment issue with the cam timing, it looked to be 1/2 a tooth off retarted""
Next (Came in the mail late) the 44mm oversize BBk. I installed the 44mm cylinder and piston. Ran strong but would not idle.
Replace the cylinder head and this fixed the idle problem for 2 days and now it's back. Won't idle. Slows down cuts off.
It appears the cam sprocket is pressed on the crankshaft wrong. It's 1/2 a tooth off.
It appears this is the cause of the idle problem.
Has anyone seen this before?
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