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Post by chewbaca on Jun 11, 2017 8:37:14 GMT -5
Yea sounds like a valve job to me
That and a lose fuel drain screw
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Post by chewbaca on May 22, 2017 21:43:18 GMT -5
Don't get a more powerful stator unless you need one
It takes more power from the motor and as a scooter is resistance regulated the extra power is burnt up in the heatsink
If you're going LED take advantage of the opportunity and get a smaller one.
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Post by chewbaca on May 19, 2017 18:53:20 GMT -5
So I guess the scroll is done. No more scoots ? Or is my scooter to ugly  |
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Post by chewbaca on May 18, 2017 10:48:10 GMT -5
A new valve probably cost the same as a tube of sealant
I just looked on Amazon $5.75 for a vacuum petcock
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Post by chewbaca on May 18, 2017 10:25:48 GMT -5
After setting the proper valve lash test to see if you have good compression
Remove the belt cover and turn the motor over by hand
You should have a springy resistance when it's compressing
If you don't have that then it's bad valves, rings or cylinder and you will need to order a new head gasket so you can remove the head and take a look.
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Post by chewbaca on May 16, 2017 11:12:14 GMT -5
The head can be removed from the scooter
It only four bolts more than a valve job
And no need to pull the motor
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Post by chewbaca on May 13, 2017 6:12:41 GMT -5
Well I guess we are all going to heck Endangering all the poor nuns and kittens and little children With reckless common sense like that.   |
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Post by chewbaca on May 11, 2017 16:13:34 GMT -5
The first time I got a scooter it was an online purchase And the MVD tried to look up my vin as a car. Apparently it comes up a jeep Cherokee or something like that!? It was a big hassle even after I got them to look in the correct category. As I only had only a certificate of origin and I needed a bill of sale. And then after I emailed the seller for the BOS I was sent a blank one in the mail  So I filled it out  |
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Post by chewbaca on May 11, 2017 15:39:05 GMT -5
Do you have one headlight or two
If two are they 55w or 35w
At what RPM do your lights stop getting brighter
And do you have led tail, turn, dash, and brake lights
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Post by chewbaca on May 6, 2017 23:19:59 GMT -5
I call forth the power of happenstance the reality bending
Will of the interweb. I skew the probability with the omnipotent World Wide Net
GET THEE BEHIND ME housing scarcity.
Ok you should find something by next Tuesday.
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Post by chewbaca on May 6, 2017 23:04:28 GMT -5
In lawshcool |
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Post by chewbaca on May 6, 2017 22:59:34 GMT -5
It's not to hard to refresh one of these starters.
Dumping out the oil is a good beginning.
The commutator can become pitted and ruff
Some 600 grit sandpaper will smooth it out
cleaning with electric parts cleaner.
New carbon brushes can also be soldered in if the old ones are bad (it's a real pain)
And then add some axle grease to the bushings before reassembly.
The O ring oil seals can found at the hardware store, neoprene is fine.
I do recommend a new starter but it nice to have a spare that will work
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overheat
by: chewbaca - May 6, 2017 22:22:51 GMT -5
Post by chewbaca on May 6, 2017 22:22:51 GMT -5
If you're still having starting problems with a new relay
Get your battery tested if the battery is good check your valves.
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Post by chewbaca on May 6, 2017 22:14:34 GMT -5
The small valve will have better low RPM efficiency and power.
But will not do as well up top. So get heavy variator weights if you stay small.
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Post by chewbaca on May 6, 2017 22:06:30 GMT -5
Idle screw ? or maybe the cable housing has a sharper radius than it should. Some times the little rubber boot can come off
And mess with the throttle pulley.
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