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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 21, 2017 19:27:22 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 21, 2017 19:27:22 GMT -5
Just to be on the safe side i wanted input from the pros here. I have a bike with a starting issue. According to the taotronics tach the plug is not firing. Also im not getting brake lights when i hit either brake. This would stop the spark if brake switch was bad, correct?
No sidestand switch, ignition switch checks good. Pulling the killswitch wire from cdi made no difference.
Motor cranks over fine, but no spark to plugwire.
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Post by cyborg55 on May 21, 2017 22:24:38 GMT -5
Check all the plug connectors to the cdi,, coil,, change the plug,,,
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 22, 2017 0:42:16 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 0:42:16 GMT -5
Check all the plug connectors to the cdi,, coil,, change the plug,,, Swapped two dif, and known good, CDIs in it, no spark. Bypassed the kill switch by removing black&white wire from cdi, no spark. That just leaves brake switches, coilpack, and trigger/pickup right? |
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Post by ricardoguitars on May 22, 2017 7:06:31 GMT -5
I'm having a similar issue with my scooter, in my case the suspect is a bad cable on the harness, cheaper and faster to replace the harness than troubleshooting it, also, check the stator cables to the CDI with a tester, in my case it shows 50+ volts AC.
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Post by cyborg55 on May 22, 2017 8:22:35 GMT -5
Check all the plug connectors to the cdi,, coil,, change the plug,,, Swapped two dif, and known good, CDIs in it, no spark. Bypassed the kill switch by removing black&white wire from cdi, no spark. That just leaves brake switches, coilpack, and trigger/pickup right? Change the plug first |
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 22, 2017 12:25:20 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 12:25:20 GMT -5
Swapped two dif, and known good, CDIs in it, no spark. Bypassed the kill switch by removing black&white wire from cdi, no spark. That just leaves brake switches, coilpack, and trigger/pickup right? Change the plug first Had a little time to work on it today... Coilpack ohms in at 0.3ohms Only getting about 6v ac into cdi, but trigger reads in at 0.1v ac Did discover my right brake switch was stuck on, so ordering a new one. Left is tied to starter circuit and ohms/works properly. Different, known good, plug and coilpack swapped in and no change. Then it started raining, so i covered it up and called it a day. Going to order a stator as the troubleshooting guides ive read says the stator should be putting out around 20v ac to the CDI. Anyone have contradicting info on any of this? www.buggydepot.com/tech-center/gy6-150cc-ignition-troubleshooting-guide-no-spark/Edit: added troubleshooting guide link. Its for buggys with gy6 engines, but the electrics are the same. |
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Post by crawford on May 22, 2017 12:55:49 GMT -5
If checking spark from wire no need to change plug.
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 22, 2017 13:52:31 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 13:52:31 GMT -5
If checking spark from wire no need to change plug. The taotronics tachometer uses induction to read the RPMs according to how fast the wire/plug pulses(sparks). So just to rule out a bad plug i checked with a known good one. |
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 22, 2017 14:44:35 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 14:44:35 GMT -5
I'm having a similar issue with my scooter, in my case the suspect is a bad cable on the harness, cheaper and faster to replace the harness than troubleshooting it, also, check the stator cables to the CDI with a tester, in my case it shows 50+ volts AC. Only getting 6vac to cdi from stator. Suspecting stuck on brake switch put a large load on electric system and smoked the stator... Replaced incandescent bulb with an LED. Have LED turn signals in front now, and have the ones for rear, just not installed yet. Darn rain. |
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Post by ricardoguitars on May 22, 2017 15:37:09 GMT -5
I'm having a similar issue with my scooter, in my case the suspect is a bad cable on the harness, cheaper and faster to replace the harness than troubleshooting it, also, check the stator cables to the CDI with a tester, in my case it shows 50+ volts AC. Only getting 6vac to cdi from stator. Suspecting stuck on brake switch put a large load on electric system and smoked the stator... Replaced incandescent bulb with an LED. Have LED turn signals in front now, and have the ones for rear, just not installed yet. Darn rain. It should be around 50VAC, I guess the stator is toast, it's a good opportunity to put on a higher capacity stator to plug extra lights. |
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Post by toddmaples on May 22, 2017 18:04:18 GMT -5
Only getting 6vac to cdi from stator. Suspecting stuck on brake switch put a large load on electric system and smoked the stator... Replaced incandescent bulb with an LED. Have LED turn signals in front now, and have the ones for rear, just not installed yet. Darn rain. It should be around 50VAC, I guess the stator is toast, it's a good opportunity to put on a higher capacity stator to plug extra lights. If i test stator output without cdi attached i get upwards of 20+ vac. Soon as i plug the cdi in voltage at same pin drops to around 6v. Trigger signals good at around .2v on my spare 8-pole stator and .15 on original. Ideas? This is without the black/white kill wire hooked up so i know its not that. |
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Post by ricardoguitars on May 22, 2017 18:58:31 GMT -5
It should be around 50VAC, I guess the stator is toast, it's a good opportunity to put on a higher capacity stator to plug extra lights. If i test stator output without cdi attached i get upwards of 20+ vac. Soon as i plug the cdi in voltage at same pin drops to around 6v. Trigger signals good at around .2v on my spare 8-pole stator and .15 on original. Ideas? This is without the black/white kill wire hooked up so i know its not that. This is how you test it: |
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Post by chewbaca on May 22, 2017 21:43:18 GMT -5
Don't get a more powerful stator unless you need one
It takes more power from the motor and as a scooter is resistance regulated the extra power is burnt up in the heatsink
If you're going LED take advantage of the opportunity and get a smaller one.
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Starting issue
by: toddmaples - May 23, 2017 3:47:30 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on May 23, 2017 3:47:30 GMT -5
Don't get a more powerful stator unless you need one It takes more power from the motor and as a scooter is resistance regulated the extra power is burnt up in the heatsink If you're going LED take advantage of the opportunity and get a smaller one. I have an underglow kit on mine, went led to have more power for it without draining battery. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 5, 2017 18:07:39 GMT -5
Got this issue solved today. Took the "shotgun" approach after getting odd readings on stator, coil, and cdi.
Replaced stator, cdi, coil, and plug. Total cost was under $50 with free 2-day amazon prime shipping. Already had flywheel tool (as any serious scooterist should) so that wasnt an excess expense.
Thanks for the help guys. I hate shotgunning problems, but electrical isnt my strong suit.
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