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Post by toddmaples on Sept 24, 2018 18:57:35 GMT -5
Looks like yet another pointless exercise in futility . . OP appears to lack basic troubleshooting aptitude, and replies with "what else"! These slackers seem to find it much easier to exploit others, than making a worthwhile research effort. Still, imma throw him a bone. If the carb bowl is tight most likely your float/needle valve inside the carb is sticking open or not closing fully, allowing fuel to fill up to the drain port and pour out... If a petcock is installed, and it "pisses" fuel like this when not running, its bad too. If it only does it while running, petcock is probably good still. Clean carb thoroughly, adjust float level and needle valve, and you should be good to go. |
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Post by toddmaples on Sept 24, 2018 17:56:22 GMT -5
Ok guys, I've ran into something new and can't seem to remedy this problem... The setup: -1P39QMB engine (pair system removed). -Gravity-fed tunable carb, no petcock/shutoff -  main jet (went up to  and  during testing) 35 idle. -50mm bbk -Uni filter w/ about a 3" 40 degree elbow between filter and carb -Stock exhaust header w/ straight-through muffler -A9 cam (swapped to stock during testing, no change at higher rpms) -Orange coil and cdi Transmission setup is irrelevant because the motors not right yet. I can take off around 2500 rpm, and it pulls strong, up to about 4400 rpm, then it starts popping, sounds almost like a backfire or combustion process pushing thru intake. Also the power band seems to "level off" here where as usually it leveled off somewhere around 6K for this setup. Jetting didn't help, up or down, cam swap between a9 and stock didn't help. Timing and valve lash have been checked, re-checked, and checked again, looks fine. I'm beginning to think the valve springs are weak and I'm getting float. Ideas/suggestions? |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 23, 2018 12:40:00 GMT -5
FAIL. It started leaking oil a few days ago. The rear body panels needs to come off to excess the cylinder head cover and I want to wash it before taking it apart as it's as dirty as a well used dirt bike at this time. It's going to take me about a week to do something about it. Frustrates me so much how they basically throw some random thing in a package and send it to you as your replacement part. those seals are meant to "squish" into the groove. It want to big, you just didn't squish it in enough, you probably stretched it out instead of pressing it straight in and working it straight in the entire time.... Option number two is using silicone all the way around. Do not tighten all the way up with the silicone wet as it won't work that way, wait the required time for the permatex to set, then torque to spec. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 20, 2018 5:03:26 GMT -5
I did mean the seal. Sorry adding that picture may have been misleading. Thanks Junior Rider I got it back on pretty well, just a small gap at the bottom near where airflow exits anyways. Thanks guys! No problem, we all started out not knowing anything about these engines, and now most of us still around answering questions are dealers, mechanics, and avid enthusiast. We all gotta start somewhere. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 19, 2018 17:37:25 GMT -5
If you need the entire shroud, don't run the engine without it. I thought you mean the rubber seal that goes arounbd the valve cover and head seam. This is a univeral part for all 50cc motors. The shrouds themselves are different for emissions vs non, but the rubber seal near the top that wraps around the motor itself, universal. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 19, 2018 15:25:38 GMT -5
If you reside somewhere that it regularly gets hot, like triple digits hot, then I would replace it asap, if you reside somewhere cooler, then it would not be a major concern to run it without it.
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 10, 2018 16:05:01 GMT -5
Thanks for the input I'll be working on the scoot tomorrow, my Jets should be here. I will double check the valves. I did the Valve adjustment the other day .004 for both intake and exhaust. It's tapping a bit so I'm going to go down to .003 to hopefully quiet that a bit. I have not had to use a feeler gauge for a while either so I might be off even though I measured after tightening, it's running so much better than when I got it. Because it wasn't. I forgot to say the starter seems to spin a slow compared to my Kymco cobra the battery reads 12.3V ish but if I jump it, it does spin a bit faster but still doesn't want to start. So once I get the hard starting fixed should I start with installing lighter rollers next? Do the contra and clutch springs first, otherwise you'll end up re-doing the roller weights again afterwards... |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 10, 2018 11:06:53 GMT -5
Ok when was the time or have you ever Addicted the Valve Lash? Your description sounds like a classic case of the Exh Valve Lash closing up once hot, then when cool she's fine. If she won't fire or very hard starting once hot you got got other problems than the jetting being off. This... Check your valve lash. I keep forgetting not everyone does that every other oil change like I do. Lol. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 10, 2018 11:01:24 GMT -5
Thanks pistonguy, yeah right now I have a full pitsburgh professional mechanics set from HarborFreight that has served me well over the past five years. Not a single broken tool or busted knuckle yet. Got a lot of electrical stuff from there too such as heat shrink, splices/connectors. I wouldn't put much stock in their power tools, but any hand tools from their professional lineup I'd put up against kobalt and other store brands any day. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 10, 2018 5:12:47 GMT -5
Change out weights and springs in the CVT, I'd suggest a tuning kit then order appropriate sized weights/sliders. And for springs I always use the orange/yellow 1500s, but there are no steep/large hills in my area.
Don't forget with a BBK the jets need changing and the intake/exhaust too, otherwise you're starving the engine of vital air. Like everything else, they gotta BREATH!
The more air in&out each cycle, the more power its capable of producing.
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 9, 2018 15:47:01 GMT -5
I'm thinking of opening a scooter repair business out of my shop. I have most of the tools needed to work on scooters, about the only thing I havn't done on mine is any bearing replacements or final drive gears. How neccesary is a press for the gears/bearing replacement?
Would a simple bottle-jack style press do it, or is serious tonnage (10+) required?
Also, any suggestions on inventory to keep on hand? I was thinking belts, cables, lights, and carb rebuild kits/jets, and ordering any major parts like heads, cams, jugs, etc.
Any advice you guys can give would be great.
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Oil change
by: toddmaples - Jun 8, 2018 5:50:31 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on Jun 8, 2018 5:50:31 GMT -5
Just a tip, but if you check your oil when its on the kick stand by screwing it down it will read the same as dipping it on the center stand with no screwing. This is not true for all models. The taotao racer 50 sits at a slightly higher angle than most bikes, and checking on kickstand and with bike totally upright(no main stand) via your method produces a difference of over 1/2" on the dipstick, which is greater than the threads. |
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Oil change
by: toddmaples - Jun 7, 2018 8:36:38 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on Jun 7, 2018 8:36:38 GMT -5
I changed the oil on my scooter today, the owners manual calls for 750 ml but the dipstick is reading full at 550 ml. I made sure all the oil was drained properly. A 200 ml difference is kinda a big mistake if the owners manual is wrong. Anyone else have this happen? Are you checking the oil with the bike on the main stand, on a level grade? If not then you are probably just getting a false reading. This is a common rookie issue, along with not reading the dipstick right. Read it by "dipping" it in, not by screwing down, and it should read around 3/4 of the way up the hash marks. |
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Oil change
by: toddmaples - Jun 7, 2018 7:54:25 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on Jun 7, 2018 7:54:25 GMT -5
I changed the oil on my scooter today, the owners manual calls for 750 ml but the dipstick is reading full at 550 ml. I made sure all the oil was drained properly. A 200 ml difference is kinda a big mistake if the owners manual is wrong. Anyone else have this happen? Are you checking the oil with the bike on the main stand, on a level grade? If not then you are probably just getting a false reading. This is a common rookie issue, along with not reading the dipstick right. Read it by "dipping" it in, not by screwing down, and it should read around 3/4 of the way up the hash marks. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 7, 2018 7:49:20 GMT -5
I just adjusted the carb according to the guide in the resources section and it made a good, noticeable difference! The scooter did bog down once when I was going about 50 mph, but I believe that was from losing constant gas pressure from the tank as I was just about empty. I filled up and cruised just fine at that speed. I'm happy that it's running well! Happy you're enjoyinh your bike again. If you need anymore advice or help, we're always here. |
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main jet (went up to 
and 
during testing) 35 idle.
