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Post by toddmaples on Oct 9, 2017 7:20:51 GMT -5
Belt broke and trashed the plastic fan, I have no idea how it was attached. Also there is a Spring and broken piece that looks like the spring attached to it? Its a 2015 Tao Tao 50cc. Will I need another Casing? The kick-start spring also looks like its not right either. Thanks for any help. There is a splined inner and tri-pin outter "washer" that pins the fan to the drive face. If you bent or lost the gear retainer clip your kickstart will not work properly and possibly sit at a funny angle. Pictures would allow aid greatly if you can post/link them. Edit: Do not run the engine with a new belt installed and no fan, you'll likely shred the new belt due to heat.
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 8, 2017 14:37:24 GMT -5
I have a 2007 GY6 ZNEN 150T. I am trying to figure out the correct size belt for the scooter. The one on there just shredded to pieces so small, that there are no identifiable markings to read. I believe the CVT cover size is comparable to a "GY6 longcase". I'm guessing it is either the 835-20-30 or the 842-20-30? I am also concerned that because the belt was obliterated, could there be some other issue that caused it to fail that I should inspect? I appreciate any info. Thanks Inspect variator, rolllers, clutch, and torque sheave. Basically entire tranny. Pull it all apart, inspect, clean, replace worn parts, lube everything proerly, and get another few thousand km/mi outta it...
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 8, 2017 4:54:19 GMT -5
Hey guys. Forgive me if I'm in the wrong place, but this seemed most appropriate. I just purchased a Powermax 150 and assembled it from the factory crate, I followed all of the instructions they offered. I can kick-start the motor fine, but the electric ignition switch doesn't make a sound whatsoever, even with the kill-switch disengaged and the left brake depressed, I can't get anything. The other thing is, while running, the lights dim significantly when braking. Other than that, everything seems fine. I'm going to pick up a multi-meter to troubleshoot the problem, but it seems the starter isn't receiving electricity. I also had a auto parts store check the battery, and they said it's fully charged. Any input or advise is greatly appreciated. Right sub-forum, but don't hijack someone elses thread as its bad juju. Now that being said, you most definatly want to check the grounds,the starter solenoid signal wire, and handlebar/kickstand kill switch if it has one.
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Wheel balance
by: toddmaples - Sept 26, 2017 16:04:37 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on Sept 26, 2017 16:04:37 GMT -5
Just purchased a new total Lancet 150, live the bike but it could stand or some wheel balance. Not sure who does this on scooters Suggestions appreciated. Balancing beads or balancing gel. Prefer gel as it clings to tires while slowing/stopping. Cant remember name of gel but will post if i find out.
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Post by toddmaples on Sept 26, 2017 13:33:09 GMT -5
It came up a while back it is a relay, I think JR settled this the last time. John Id say its a high/low beam realy... Hot, switched ground, and two outputs, would make electrical sense if using high watt dc bulbs.
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 30, 2017 0:00:45 GMT -5
Does that assembly mention anywhere if it's the 64mm or the 69mm version? Edit: I think I have found another suspect to the cold-starting issue. The spark plug may not have been seated correctly. It looked worn out when I removed it , so I'm going to try replacing that as well. Im not sure exactly, but you can call them and ask, there is a number on their contact page. I reccomend and iridium spark plug, lasts longer.
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 29, 2017 2:12:28 GMT -5
Better or cheaper? Best would probably be get a quality rocker arm assembly. Be careful, there are two different valve lengths and two differing rocker arm assemblies to go with it. Think one is a 64mm valve length and the other is a 69mm. Should be a youtube explaining how to tell them apart so you dont order the wrong parts. The rocker seems okay. It's just the screws that need to be replaced. If the threads on the screw are marred up, then most likely the ones in the arm are marred up. This is not something i persobally would take a chance on as it can grenade your whole top assembly. (Head, cylinder/piston, and rocker arm assy) under the right circumstances. If it were me, Id feel much better knowing the tappets and jam nuts are not going to come loose and wreak havock inside my engine while WOT on a ride... To each their own though. If you feel its an acceptable risk, then by all means order some tappets and jam nuts and go for it. Edit: Heres a complete assembly for $15: www.partsforscooters.com/164-41_GY6-Rocker_Arms
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Running rich
by: toddmaples - Jul 28, 2017 16:17:42 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 28, 2017 16:17:42 GMT -5
If its hot go larger, not smaller. Rich engines run cooler... but as the jets do not seem to make it run more lean and still hot what can i do to make it at least not hot as it is my main problem, the engine gets to hot and just after 10 or 15 minutes on the road it lose power and the engine produce a lot of heat You could always switch to a watercooled cylnder, althogh expensive and alot of work. Are all the plastic covers in place? Make sure no broke fins on cooling fan, and all plastic around engine is in place.
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Running rich
by: toddmaples - Jul 25, 2017 19:55:37 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 25, 2017 19:55:37 GMT -5
I change the main jet with a smaller one. Still running hot, what can i do to fix it guys? If its hot go larger, not smaller. Rich engines run cooler...
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 24, 2017 19:12:08 GMT -5
Holy crap, it worked! That magnet literally saved my life!! Now I just need to figure out assembling the pieces back together. Another good news was that I was able to remove that stripped screw off of the rocker arm. Now I'm wondering if I can clean the rocker arm and engine blocks and reuse them or should I get them replaced? All I would need to do is get a set of replacement screws. Here are some pictures attached. Based on the condition , would it be better to get the screws replaced or the rocker? Better or cheaper? Best would probably be get a quality rocker arm assembly. Be careful, there are two different valve lengths and two differing rocker arm assemblies to go with it. Think one is a 64mm valve length and the other is a 69mm. Should be a youtube explaining how to tell them apart so you dont order the wrong parts.
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 22, 2017 13:27:20 GMT -5
Hello, I did an oil change today, so i warmed up the scooter for a few minutes before draining the oil. After i refilled with new oil, i changed the spark plug with a new one. I then noticed the color of the old spark plug, and i don't know if it's too lean or too rich. It's kind of grey/white at the bottom and black at the top. See attached picture. The scooter run fine, no problems. Is it like that because i ran the cold engine for only a few minutes before i changed the oil? Thank you. Looks slightly rich to me, but ive never been good at plug reading so lets see the rest of the community's opinion.
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 20, 2017 11:35:30 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 20, 2017 0:47:34 GMT -5
Hey guys, I am new to these forums and scooter repair, so please bear with me. This whole thing began when my scooter was having issues trying to cold start. But when I start it again while the engine is warm then it starts right up. So I suspected that some possible solutions were: cleaning the carburetor, replacing the choke, and adjusting the valves. I took off the underseat storage and did some visual inspections. One of the first things I saw was the air intake tube was cracking and breaking apart. Maybe that was causing the scooter not to start? So now I gotta replace that intake tube. And the carburetor is located right under it so I had to take it off regardless. The first thing I decided to do was to do the valve adjustment. I watched many Youtube videos on how to do this and I thought I was well prepared. I took off the engine head as instructed, removed the 4 bolts. After that, things did not go as I planned, it actually has caused me more problems to deal with! First of , after using the feeler gauge, I was tightening down the bolts on the valves , but the inner screw just would not stay put when I held them with the pliers. And then I found out that screw has been stripped , in other words it won't screw to the hexagon nut. The second problem was that I was being so clumsy (I was working outside in the summer heat) that I've accidentally dropped a screw into the camshaft hole. So I've had to try disassemble the rest of the engine head, ended up removing more screws and bolts , since there were so many tight spots my wrench wouldn't fit unless I removed part of the plastic frame. This whole process took me a few days to get through. I've already removed the camshaft off of the chain , removed the muffler bolts that were attached at the bottom, removed the manifold, along with many other screws, then I was able to take off the head. But now I've reached to a point where I'm suck. There was another hole I found what seems to be the inside of the oil compartment, the screw must have fell in there. Well f**k! I've done all that removing engine head for nothing. So I drained the oil out from the engine , and now I just need to figure out how to get inside the oil compartment to get that screw out. This whole thing has become a hassle now, what I thought was going to be simple and easy turned out to be a nightmare. At least from all this I've gotten the opportunity to learn more about my scooter. Hopefully somebody can help me with this what else I need to do. Preferably someone who's had a lot of experience and knowledge with Chinese scooters / GY6 engines. In the end I hope I can revive my old scooter, do a few modifications, and make it like new again, even better! If anyone needs pictures or anything , please let me know. And if anyone wants to know what kind of scooter I have, here's a link with all the specs: www.df-motor.com/product_show.asp?id=683 get a telescoping magnetic pickup tool and feel around down the timing chain hole for the lost bolt... If that fails remove the cylinder and try again through the bore cutout in the case. Make sure the magnet is small enough to fit down the cam chain hole before spending money on this. These pickup tools really come in handy grabbing anuthing ferrous from a tight spot such as in engine bays or (as in your case) a crankcase While you have this tjing tore down this far, might as well throw a bigger piston/cylinder kit on it. Carb rejet will be required if you do this.
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 15, 2017 0:40:55 GMT -5
Perhaps he meant valve seals. A leaking valve seal will as you know do just that. Admit oil to the intake or exhaust that is. And a bad seal will not hurt compression. But the runny oil sure sounds like rings. Well new seals valves and rings will probably run a wapping $15 Yeah meant valve seals. Not the angled faces but the seals around the shaft portion that protrude thru the head... Im not very savvy when it comes to the technicalities of the head.
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Valve Question
by: toddmaples - Jul 12, 2017 23:11:30 GMT -5
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Post by toddmaples on Jul 12, 2017 23:11:30 GMT -5
Hey all! So- i have a Taotao Quantum 150-2016. Do my valves need to be adjusted because they will get tighter with time? Or looser? Valves are usually set to tight from factory, and need readjustment out of the crate usually. Then adjust as neccesary, checking them every oil change.
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