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Post by toddmaples on Mar 1, 2018 2:22:42 GMT -5
Bad thing about them aside from the price, is the fact that they fail without notice, acid batteries fade gradually, so you notice it is going bad, lithium batteries don't. I hadnt thought of this. Guess this seals the deal then, im going to be upgrading to the 11 pole stator and getting a decent agm battery. |
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Post by toddmaples on Feb 26, 2018 6:03:50 GMT -5
why do you ask, what are you looking for? I spent the extra coin for cold starting and basiclly failed me. I run alot of auxiliary lighting at night, and tired of killing SLA batteries due to the extra drain on the batt. One SLA battery might last a season if its of good quality. The cheap chinese cells i go through in a month, maybe 1.5 I know I need to do the 11-pole stator upgrade to fix the issue proper, but my current battery is garbage so im debating trying lithium for the higher drain and better charge cycle(s), then if still having issues do the stator upgrade. |
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Post by toddmaples on Feb 24, 2018 22:53:33 GMT -5
Guys, whats everyones take on these lithium powersports batteries? Are they worth the extra coin or not?
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Post by toddmaples on Feb 24, 2018 2:58:06 GMT -5
Check intake gasket, and carb for vacuum leaks.
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Gasket
by: toddmaples - Feb 22, 2018 15:38:12 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on Feb 22, 2018 15:38:12 GMT -5
Can a scooter engine stall and run rough if the valve cover gasket is bad? Generally no, unless youre losing compression/vacuum around valves/valve stems. |
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Post by toddmaples on Feb 22, 2018 7:43:49 GMT -5
that feeler gauge is a .004mm I use .004 inch the intake valve look like its tight by your hand movement. It should rub but not really drag. I have had to do valve adjustments 5 or 6 times before they became stable. I suspect the jam nut was not tight enough. You can run the engine with the valve cover off, you will need to catch the oil (it gets messy real fast) make sure the oil level is good. The wires you show are for a side stand kill switch. I know the valve tool is some coin, but it helps a lot. John Use a strip of aluminium from the next soda (or beer) can. Works just fine for the cheapskates like me. I can second the remark about doing it four or five times to get the valves stable, hence my earlier post saying redo the valve job. |
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Post by toddmaples on Feb 20, 2018 22:39:53 GMT -5
your going to need to pull the head so you can inspect the cylinder wall and the valve faces for pitting or scoring so order a new head gasket or just get an entire new head for 40$ a new cylinder and piston can also be purchased for about 40$ or get the hole deal for about 60$ Before doing this, try the valve adjustment again. Check clearances after jamb nut is tight, if the gauge dont slide easily, re try it. |
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Post by toddmaples on Feb 18, 2018 4:14:23 GMT -5
I'll have to get feeler gauges Cut a strip from the side of an aluminum beverage can. This works in a pinch, until feeler gauges can be obtained. Personal experience. |
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Pair system
by: toddmaples - Feb 8, 2018 11:35:17 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on Feb 8, 2018 11:35:17 GMT -5
Ay, anyone knows where the vent hose that comes from valve cover goes? Can i just connect it to the air box or leave as it is? If you pull the line from the intake to valve cover, make sure to have the open end above the engine as far as possible (other end goes to valve cover), and i recommend a catch can, preferably with a pcv valve/breather so it breathes properly... |
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Post by toddmaples on Feb 8, 2018 11:28:16 GMT -5
OK so I got educated in the AC vs DC CDI. But I keep smoking CDI's. The first one I ordered in the blind and it was AC CDI... It fried in seconds. I determined I have a DC system. The one I bought is one of those $8 ebay orange CDI's. I ordered a different more expensive DC CDI, CASOLI "CF250". It also fried. What am I doing wrong. May be my scooter has different wiring. I saw one youtube video where you have to pull one wire out of the connector on the bike side? The video was poor/not clear, so I was not sure about it's relevance. Why change the stock one? Well the scooter runs fine but cuts out at 48 MPH like clock work, like the ignition is being turned off and then on... or like the throttle is instantly closed than opened again, IE Cutting out. I wanted to try a "racing" CDI with out a REV limiter. Not sure my stock CDI has a limiter. Checked the regulator/rectifier? I went through 3 CDIs before i realized the r/r was puttin out half DC and half AC, frying lights, CDIs, and causing other weird issues... |
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Post by toddmaples on Nov 23, 2017 3:09:32 GMT -5
So I ran into a bit of a snag. Trying to replace the bolt I noticed that it's broken off inside - hence why I lost it. Attempt to drill it out? Any other way of getting around this (replacement exhaust)? Local shop told me to just go a welder and have it mounted permanently due to the design you guys mentioned... Look for my head repair thread. Has pictures on putting steel inserts in the heads. Imho if you gotta pull the head may as well improve it. For an hour or so of work you get the peace of mind steel-on-steel threadng provides. |
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Rough starting
by: toddmaples - Nov 9, 2017 15:27:27 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on Nov 9, 2017 15:27:27 GMT -5
What voltage should it read? at the headlight socket and the regulator? Going to do a PDI over the winter, starting soon and hopefully can catch any other "problem" that the scoot could have. The regulator/rectifier and stators on these taotaos are junk, good for maybe one riding season in my four years experience with them. Replace r/r, clean and retighten all battery/ground connections, replace stator/pickup coil. When replacing use quality parts. I recommend tvnacman(John) for tested-good, quality parts. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 23, 2017 14:16:13 GMT -5
Before you put the new line on It may be worth it to you to put some heat shrink on the spots That got worn down on the old line I use electric tape but I don't care how mine looks Spiral-wrap wire loom works too, comes in varying colors, and is re-usable. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 9, 2017 20:21:41 GMT -5
The plastic fan doesn't look like the fans I have seen in the repair videos on youtube. I cant find a place where the little eye-hook piece broke off (the little piece in the pic with the spring) Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, this is my daily rider.. Here are pics of the insides.   There are tons of youtube videos about belt replacement, if you want to keep frm having to replace your fan every time a belt breaks there are performance setups with the fan and drive face cast as one piece. Usually comes with a slightly larger variator and roller weights/sliders. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 9, 2017 7:26:38 GMT -5
Anyone familiar with the bolt missing for the znen 150cc scooter? Goes through the exhaust bracket and into the case? Should be a standard ISO M6 thread I believe. |
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