|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 25, 2014 12:24:58 GMT -5
I drilled the head off the bolts and surprise, surprise... EPOXY used as Loc-Tite...  Considering I have a brand new tap/die set I've been die'n to use I think I will drill out the old bolts and tap some new standard holes. Will report back later today with pics and stuff if I think of it. these aren't sport bikes..lol No these are not sport bikes, but there is a lot of force on a 13" rim going 65-70MPH down the highway, and even more force on a rotor trying to stop that rim from that speed. Edit: I feel much better with a 3/8" grade 8 bolt in there versus factory. Medium Loctight and split washers keep em in place. Note the rotor will need a clearance increase for the larger bolts for OEM rotors.  After drilling with a 1/2" drill bit:  Honestly, it wasn't that difficult and if anyone else has to do this, a few tips: have good drill bits, and the rotor is TOUGH so be sure to use cutting fluid/lube. |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 25, 2014 11:55:29 GMT -5
Just wondering whats everyones favorite method for getting these bolts off. Used lube/penetrating oil, let it sit for ~45Mins, still cant turn these dang bolts. Even broke out my long allen wrenches (12" long versus the standard 4-6") and just managed to strip one bolt... GRRR  Its going to have to be drilled out now, should I just save some headache and drill the other two while I'm at it then E-Z-Out the lot of them? Any suggestion on replacements, or will any good-grade bolt about the same length work?  |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 15, 2014 7:03:04 GMT -5
Nice! I really like that CVT cover and the lights. Dunno where you are but here in Jacksonville FL you can't drive around with any red or blue lights on like that. Some BS about emergency vehicles. Least that's what the cop told me many years ago. In NC, as long as they are not flashing the cops don't bother you. You see larger bikes lit up like christmas trees, so I figured "Why not?" |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 15, 2014 6:29:01 GMT -5
Hello im new to scooters you guys helped me alot with my last problem so thanks for this great community  . on to the real topic. I'm going to be putting aftermarket parts on my taotao 50cc ATM50-A1. Scooters in my area are still in the baby stages. I'd like to add a windshield,100cc bbk, and a new speedometer to show rpms. Here are the products im getting mostly i wanna know if the 100cc bbk is worth it for this price? I also have an ATM50-A1 that I have done the performance upgrades for. I will warn you, the kit you are looking at is cheap, and you get what you pay for. One problem I ran into was the exhaust did not come with a bracket to hold it, I had to fabricate one. I still have it installed on my scoot and can take a pic if you need it. Do not ride hard/far with the muffler just bolted to the header, it WILL eventually crack and break. |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 14, 2014 13:04:35 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 14, 2014 12:45:49 GMT -5
Well the problem with the performance bushing, er boss, was that the end of it actually was behind the splines on my crank shaft, not allowing the outer drive face to seat where its supposed to, luckily I didn't mar the splines on the performance face when doing this install.
On a side note, the chrome with this kit looks excellent with the chrome vented belt cover.
|
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 13, 2014 16:57:46 GMT -5
In my experience, even with one of the "Racing" CDIs, the bike will fire over just fine with a stock engine. In fact my P139qmb engines first mod was the blue racing CDI, red hot coil, and a good plug.
Note that I use electric start on all my bikes though. Make sure your battery is good and fully charged and try to crank it over again with the racing CDI.
Also check all the pins in the plugs on those racing CDIs, sometimes they come lose.
|
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 13, 2014 16:33:23 GMT -5
Okay guys and gals, got it figured out. This is one of those quirks of these chinese scooters. Bike: Taotao Lancer 150 Limited Edition Engine code: 157QMJ Quirk: Hoca 115mm Variator kit comes with its own bushing, DO NOT USE THIS BUSHING ON THIS BIKE!  As you can see, the one that come with the kit is quite a bit shorter than the stock one. Also, the ID(inner diameter) is different. Easy fix, just use the old bushing as the OD(outter diameter) is the same. |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 13, 2014 15:33:10 GMT -5
These head gaskets are not meant to be reusable, once the head is pulled, the gasket should be replaced.
If you torqued the head down, better safe than sorry, replace it.
|
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Sept 13, 2014 15:28:15 GMT -5
Ok guys, pulled my CVT apart today to install the HOCA performance kit from partsforscooters.com.
Rear clutch assembly went smooth, liked the ball bearing bushing they provided. far cry from the stock stamped metal one.
Variator assembly went pretty smooth, lubed with graphite, installed.
With the CVT cover off I cranked it over to make sure everything was functioning properly.
Reved it once, belt rode up in the front, down in the back, RPMS dropped belt returned to original position.
Reved it the second time, and the nut, washer, weights, glidekeys, whole nine yards spin right off/out and go flying...
Nothings permanently damaged (thank goodness).
Any ideal what could cause this? I impacted both nuts on there pretty good, about a second after 0-turn.
|
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Aug 25, 2014 18:40:25 GMT -5
There you go the R/R is bad. Alleyoop Quoted for truth. Replaced R/R this evening and both blown headlight bulbs. I can see to drive at dawn/dusk and will be riding to work in the early morning tomorrow |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Aug 22, 2014 18:56:21 GMT -5
Question when you turn on the key your gauges work and your instrument lights come on is that right? Correct, dash, tail/brake, and turn/caution all work with key on, not running. Only lights I can tell are powered by stator is headlights, so they are the only ones that blow because incorrect voltage coming through the R/R. |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Aug 21, 2014 18:19:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the input guys, I have ordered a new R/R from forum sponsor partsforscooters and it will be here Monday. I look forward to being a part of this community and helping any way that I can.  |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Aug 19, 2014 19:55:36 GMT -5
I wold suggest checking the grounds . Did you make any lighting changes before the trouble started ,change to led's change a light assembly with less bulbs ? John John, No lighting changes, everything is stock, except CDI Its a blue no revlimit one. All grounds are good as all plugs green wire goes no Ohms to frame, at various points. Going to order a new R/R. Any suggestions? Its the four, flat, male prong type. Edit: somewhere that ships FAST... can't wait a week for my main ride to be down. |
|
|
|
Post by toddmaples on Aug 19, 2014 18:44:26 GMT -5
Hey guys and gals,
First post here, but I'm a fairly accomplished scooter guy.
Here is my issue: Headlights keep blowing at higher revs.
Installed new stator a few days ago. been through six bulbs trying to figure this out...
Upon inspecting the bike with my meter, I find 13-14.3 volts at battery while running (terminals unhooked of course)
I'm getting 10-11V at idle on the headlight plug, low and high beam.
Rev it up and it jumps up to almost double voltage to 24V.
No resistance from any plugs to ground.
Should I assume I got a bad rectifier/regulator?
What started this all: stator shorted out. Replaced it, replaced rectifier also as the stator shorting caused the rectifier to go also.
Bike Model is a Taoto Lancer 150 Special Edition
|
|
these aren't sport bikes..lolNo these are not sport bikes, but there is a lot of force on a 13" rim going 65-70MPH down the highway, and even more force on a rotor trying to stop that rim from that speed.
