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Post by toddmaples on Oct 31, 2014 9:10:26 GMT -5
are you sure i will need to have an oil cooler with my little 60mm bbk? Nope do not need one not even with a 63bbk I have a 62bbk Plus a Stroker Crank. I was looking at those striker cranks... what's install time if my engine is dismounted already? Very mechanically inclined btw. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 30, 2014 16:08:32 GMT -5
Got my new vacuum and fuel pressure gauge in today, and boy is it huge! ::)It takes up most of my hand. It's like the diameter of a can of beef stew! mmmm beef stew.  oh so I can't wait to try it out. I will try it out a little later.  I am looking forward to getting some readings for my data collection. Maybe you could play Mythbusters with the common PCV valve people install on the valve cover vent line and post readings with and without it... |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 30, 2014 12:58:31 GMT -5
thanks for the reply toddmaples,i'll check and see...thanks again Just cured my bike of the shakes too, both my tires were out of round from factory/shipping. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 30, 2014 11:36:52 GMT -5
hi everyone,i'm new to this forum and hope someone here can give me suggestions what to do to fix my scooter.the problem i'm having is i get a pulsing sensation in my arms when riding above 20 mph , the effect i get is when my hands are on the handle bars my arms are going from a front to back motion.i checked the front wheel and everything to me seems to be o.k. but i'm no mechanic,has anyone here had this problem and could tell me what to do to fix this,i have had this problem ever since new,but seems to be getting worse,thanks.......... Sounds like an out of round tire, or a loose neck nut. Where the handlebars meet the frame there should be a nut on top and another spanner-type nut underneath. Tighten these until you meet a little resistance on turning the handle bars. The top nut is meant To be a jam nut, so tighten accordingly. If the above doesn't fix it, get a new front tire. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 30, 2014 5:58:08 GMT -5
Alright guys and gals, I have a $500 budget for getting the most HP/tq out of a 150cc g6. Current setup is a stock gy6 engine. Cvt has a larger variator and drive face, hoca clutch and torque sleeve. I have clutch springs already and a yellow contra spring. What engine, intake, and exhaust parts should I get? Engine code 1p57qmj, dual shock rear drum brakes. How many bolts does your valve cover have? Normally the P motors have taller heads and the cam chain has 1 more link than your standard gy6 157 motor. It also has larger valves and larger ports it produces a couple more hp than the standard gy6 motor. Also if the studs measure 3" diagonally the stock 157 parts will fit EXCEPT for the chain. If it measures 3.25 then parts are harder to find for that motor. So saying that any BBK will fit that would fit a standard GY6 some have put in 63bbk in their 1p motors, remember the head is taller (73mm), chain and cam are different on these motors as well. Alleyoop Alleyoop Fore bolt valve cover, unless you count where the EGR bolts To the head also, then its six. I did notice the cam and rockers have an odd one-way bearing setup On them. I will be measuring the jugs inner diameter and head stud spacing soon as I have to put inserts in a stripped exhaust stud hole. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 29, 2014 9:14:34 GMT -5
Alright guys and gals, I have a $500 budget for getting the most HP/tq out of a 150cc g6.
Current setup is a stock gy6 engine. Cvt has a larger variator and drive face, hoca clutch and torque sleeve. I have clutch springs already and a yellow contra spring.
What engine, intake, and exhaust parts should I get?
Engine code 1p57qmj, dual shock rear drum brakes.
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 27, 2014 11:20:07 GMT -5
I am curious about installing a BBK on my taotao thunder, if I buy a kit that only comes with the piston,rings and jug can i change just that without having to upgrade anything else and still get some sort of power increase? I was going to upgrade to an 80cc kit. I know I did it once before on my 2008 VIP but the engine was a bit different. Sent from my LG Optimus G Pro Don't forget new gaskets sized to fit the new cylinder, these gaskets are NOT meant to be reused, especially the head gasket. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 27, 2014 11:17:36 GMT -5
Keylocking inserts from grainger.com would be the best, if slightly expensive, solution.
As a professional mechanic I hate helicoils as they need a special tool to implement. Jus'sayin my .02$
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 22, 2014 13:09:36 GMT -5
 (Try to find a station with a dedicated hose too) Haha, I'm stealing this pic. And yes, this is a dedicated system just for 100% gas. No other petrol is pumped through this pump. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 22, 2014 11:34:43 GMT -5
So, I have a service station nearby that has 100% gasoline, no ethanol.
Premium pump gas here contains up to 15% ethanol.
Which would be better for the carb/engine On these china bikes?
Price difference between premium and 100% is pennies on the gallon, so price is not an issue, just overall health of the bike.
I have noticed my bike runs alot better on 100%. My 2 cents.
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 21, 2014 11:22:50 GMT -5
I ran my Tao the same way for a while. You will need to really crank that bolt down tight or it will wiggle back and forth. I had to use a breaker bar with the appropriate socket to get more leverage. After that its been solid ever since. Yellow True here too, but usually up and down movement is due to loose bearing nuts, not fork bar connecting bolts... |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 18, 2014 7:32:30 GMT -5
Try tightening the spanner nut and jam nut on the neck, I've found they ship these things kind of loose after putting together a couple.
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 15, 2014 16:44:26 GMT -5
Vacuum is separate from this. It's source comes from the intake manifold of the other side of the carb. The pistons downstroke pulls air from the intake manifold, carb, snorkel, and cleaner/filter assembly. Having a nipple on the other side of the carb still produces vacuum, but (depending upon several factors) it is not as strong as at the intake manifold itself. Spray a cracked snorkel with ether or starting fluid and the engine revs because vacuum is drawing in the fumes from the outside of the snorkel. Your suggestion is viable for returning oil to the crankcase once the filter reaches saturation, but leaves the problem of the vacuum. This is where the PCV valve comes into play. The PCV valve only allows air out, so on the pistons up stroke it actually pulls a vacuum on the crankcase. I believe I'm going to combine our ideas. Between the valve cover vent and tee I will add a filter, then the pcv valve to where the line used to meet the snorkel. This should keep oil in the engine and vacuum pulled on both cracnkcase and gearbox. Anyone feel free to dispute my logic with this as I'm still learning. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 14, 2014 17:03:57 GMT -5
 The line in question is highlighted in red. This was like this from the factory. I'm assuming its a pressure equalization system to keep from blowing seals at high RPM. My new intake has no nipple for this line to connect. Would putting a PCV valve on this line solve this problem and keep a slight vacuum on the engine which appears to be the purpose of this setup? This bike still has its PAIR system on it, if it matters. |
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 12, 2014 15:22:27 GMT -5
So I have a vacuum line going from my intake to a "T" fitting, one line goes to the valve cover and the other goes to what appears to be the transmission gearbox.
My new intake does not have the nipple to connect this line back.
Wouldn't a PCV valve run to the valve cover and gearbox be a possible solution?
Thoughts, suggestions? Replacing the factory intake snorkel is the ultimate goal.
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