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Post by scooterpookin on Oct 24, 2014 14:08:07 GMT -5
So brand new cylinder head right, bolting on my muffler and I strip the threads right out on one side ?. I know it's aluminum so I should have been careful but i don't feel like I was cranking that hard on it. I was using my old bolts on it too so maybe it got angled without me knowing. Either way I sound like a chopper coming down the road, and it's not a good feeling haha. I also should invest in a torque wrench. Now, do you know of any good metal glues or cements that I could glue the bolt down Into the head with? I feel like if I can secure the bolt in the head then I should be able to secure the muffler without out it sounding like a chopper.
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Post by newbscootdude on Oct 24, 2014 14:35:19 GMT -5
i would try to tap it with the original size bolt see if that works if not go up one size that will definitely work youll just have two different size bolts.. if you try to glue it next time you want to take it off itll be a getting out and youll have to clean the hole out then reglue it and thats no fun. also you would have to get some really high temp glue otherwise itll break down on you at some point when your riding and that wont be good either.
my advice do it the right way.
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Post by surfpick on Oct 24, 2014 14:59:31 GMT -5
A larger bolt seems like the best solution but if you have to resort to a glue, JB Weld is strong & it is good up to 550 degrees. They also have a Hi-Temp formula but it says it's good for up to 500 degrees? It is a putty. The first link is a 2 part tube which flows into nooks and crannies better.
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Post by pmatulew on Oct 24, 2014 18:18:20 GMT -5
Do it right.
Time for a Heli-Coil
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Post by william42 on Oct 24, 2014 18:19:04 GMT -5
2 votes for JB Weld.
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 24, 2014 21:09:03 GMT -5
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Post by scooter on Oct 24, 2014 22:30:50 GMT -5
Mine were damaged when I got the bike so I tapped them bigger. I used the stud's outside diameter as the basis for the hole size and selected a tap accordingly. It worked out fine and I like the bigger bolts.
The hole being easy to strip out could be a sign that the metal is a bit soft. Careful you don't leave metal chips in your exhaust port. (One of my holes went all the way through so getting chips in the port was inevitable.)
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Post by rcq92130 on Oct 24, 2014 22:52:26 GMT -5
There is no way JB Weld would last for any length of time right at the exhaust port of the cylinder head.
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Post by scooterpookin on Oct 25, 2014 11:28:05 GMT -5
Thanks guys for all the info, it looks like my best option is taping or rethreading. Do you think lowes would sell anything like this?
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Post by xyshannen on Oct 25, 2014 12:04:26 GMT -5
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Post by scooterpookin on Oct 25, 2014 13:28:36 GMT -5
Yea your right so much cheaper! Lowes it's like 50. Would I still need drill bits with the harbor freight kit?
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Post by scooter on Oct 25, 2014 16:17:55 GMT -5
Thanks guys for all the info, it looks like my best option is taping or rethreading. Do you think lowes would sell anything like this? What size do you want to make your threads? For instance, homedepot.com has a 3/8-16 tap for 5 dollars. Add in a few more dollars for a drill. You can get a chart that shows you what drill you need. Let's say you had a 1/4" bolt in a hole and it stripped. The hole should be close to 1/4" (.250) at this point. Look at what tap uses a hole about that size. In this case, a 5/16-18 would be a good choice. It uses a size "F" (.257) drill. In aluminum, a .250 hole would be fine for this tap and you would not even need to drill it out. If you do not know how to use a tap, you should watch some videos. You can use an adjustable wrench to turn the tap but a tap handle is nicer. If anything is unclear just ask and I'll help you. If I am over-explaining then sorry in advance. use some tapping fluid, wd40 or something as a lube. even vegetable or motor oil should work in a pinch. Here is a metric tap chart. An m5 has an outside diameter of 5mm. If your bolt stripped and left you with a 5mm hole, the nearest drill size is a 5mm drilled hole for an m6X1 tap. If the hole is out of round or oversized or otherwise damaged, you might want to upsize to an m8. Acehardware.com has a metric tap and die set for 15 and 20 dollars. Ebay has a set with a handle for 8 dollars and free shipping. They also have an m8 helicoil kit for 15 dollars. a drill bit is another 3 or 4 dollars. for later use, you can often find big nice 115 piece drill sets on sites like msc. they have one for about 100 dollars plus 25% off. I used to see them on special for $20, many years ago.
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 25, 2014 18:06:24 GMT -5
Measure the bolt thickness they come 6 and 8mm do the conversion to the next size in inch . You don't have to use studs you can use bolts . I would suggest using the Oval gasket and snug it till it does not leak .
John
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Post by toddmaples on Oct 27, 2014 11:17:36 GMT -5
Keylocking inserts from grainger.com would be the best, if slightly expensive, solution.
As a professional mechanic I hate helicoils as they need a special tool to implement. Jus'sayin my .02$
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Post by rockynv on Oct 28, 2014 4:11:29 GMT -5
Never use bolts on a heads ports unless you are slapping it together to get rid of it or its not your own bike. Hardened steel studs are used so that the wear is between the hard steel stud and the nut and not a steel bolt wearing away an aluminum head. You put the studs in first and then attach the exhaust flange washers and nut otherwise you increase many fold the chances of stripping out the head.
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