Not sure what you mean by the "tranny compartment". R U referring to the GEARBOX (where the clutch and rear axle are), or just to the area behind the CVT cover? I'll guess you mean the CVT cover.
Then pull the cover (NOT hours or days of playing mechanic) and see if the leak is from the seal in the front (crankshaft) or the seal in the back (clutch shaft) ..... or ...............
from around the new jug you just installed (I'm guessing THIS is the culprit, since that what was just fooled around with). Oil from the jug might be dripping down and appearing to come from behind the CVT cover, though usually it just drips down and appears to come from the bottom of the plastic engine shroud.
But step 1 is the easiest one - take the CVT cover off and make sure it's not one of the 2 seals. If they are OK, then remove the shroud and you will see for certain where on the new jug/head the leak is. One common source is the chain tensioner. Another the paper gasket between the jug and the crankcase. Obviously you would want it to be the tensioner before the jug, since the fix is 1,000 times easier.
And for God's sake don't go through the rest of your life sideways like that!
Last Edit: Aug 22, 2016 16:30:04 GMT -5 by rcq92130
If you changed the brake pads, or for some other reason pushed the current pads (and thus the piston) back into the cylinder) just keep pumping the brakes. As soon as the piston is pushed far enough out to contact the disk (and thus move no farther), braking will resume. Just keep an eye on the level in the master cylinder.
Air in the system will generally NOT lead to a loss of all braking pressure - just a "spongy" feeling.
That video tortise posted was way annoying, what with the camera attached to the guy's hat and flipping around all over the place, but it was also way systematic.
My own personal bias is to leap to the exhaust valve. Could be vacuum leak, or coil failing, or pump-petcock failing, but these GY6's seem to so often have the exhaust valve tighten up so when under load going up a hill (i.e., hot) they die. But perhaps wisest to go through step by step as the video shows.
The real question, though, is - EIGHT THOUSAND MILES, 25 EACH DAY, AND THIS IS YOUR FIRST VISIT ? What's wrong with you, Buddy? Come up for air!
A little late, but here are procedures and pix of replacing the leaking right side seal (a simple, 1-hour job):
1. Drop exhaust manifold, remove fan cover
2. Drain oil
3. Remove fan & flywheel (special tool needed to remove flywheel). First remove the nut (use your Harbor Freight electric impact wrench). THEN MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE WASHER BEHIND THE NUT. Screw the special tool into the flywheel (reverse threads, unless I'm mistaken), screw down the plunger and the flywheel pops off.
4. Remove stator and ignition pickup. Here is the right side cover ready to remove, bolts circled. Keep track of which bolt goes into which hole as they are different lengths:
5. Here is the leaky seal. No apparent damage, but that sucker didn't want to do it's job! Just bang it out with a socket and hammer - comes out easily.
6. New seal gets gently "banged" in with a socket that is small enough to fit in the housing, but not so small it fails to push against the shoulder of the seal. The seal installs on the right side cover from the inside.
7. New gasket. Right side cover back on; tighten all 6 or 7 bolts. Put stator and pickup back on. Put stator back on crankshaft making sure the woodruf key in the shaft is aligned with the slot in the flywheel. Drift the flywheel into place with a socket and hammer, hitting the socket gently. Washer on the extended part of the crankshaft, locktight, nut. Tighten with your H.F. electric impact wrench (NOTE: DON'T USE AN AIR POWERED IMPACT WRENCH AS IT IS TOO POWERFUL AND CAN DAMAGE THE CRANKSHAFT!!)
8. Install fan & fan cover. Add oil. Replace exhaust manifold. Have a beer.
Last Edit: Jul 28, 2016 14:35:17 GMT -5 by rcq92130
You drill a small hole, 1/2" deep, down the center of the stub. You put the easy out into the hole & turn counterclockwise. It has "reverse threads - ribs, really" that catch when you turn backwards. And the bolt unscrews out of the hole. Unless you drill toward the side, into the threads, nothing touches the threads.
But I would in a heartbeat use the dremel. Just did that with a stub on one of the intake manifolds of my Goldwing. Much faster, safer. Only "damage" is a tiny slot, maybe 1/8" long, on either side of the bolthole - which I could not care less about since it's no more than 1/16th inch deep.
I know you know how to fix this, 'cause I remember you speaking of this before.
Option 1: Get a small drill bit and an EasyOut. Drill right down the center of the stub - need to go maybe 1/2" deep (you do NOT want to all the way since then drill chips would get down into the case). Stick the EasyOut into the drilled hole, turn counter clockwise and the stub will EASILY just screw out. I'm guessing it would turn so easily you could do so by hand.
NOTE: you can't screw another bolt into the hole, hoping to push the stub thru, since it will just bind against the stub and lock up.
Option 2: SMALL metal cutting bit on dremel, cut a small slot in the stub. Yep - it will also probably cut a slot on either side of the threaded hole - but so what? You are only going 1/16th inch deep. Flat screwdriver ... unscrew. Easy. A lot easier than Option #1, but if you don't want the ends of the slot in the case because you find it artistically crude, then go with #1.
ps: about torque wrenches. I know WELL exactly what happened to you. The tiny torque (17-ft-lbs?) is way too low for cheap clicker-style torquers. That's why so many people say we should stick with beam-style torque wrenches. A SMALL beam torquer is cheap and impossible to screw up with, though for larger torques it's less accurate.
Last Edit: Jul 25, 2016 16:15:31 GMT -5 by rcq92130
Geeze Louise - don't toss the engine! Just drill the bolt stub and use an easy-out.
The stub should spin out with almost zero effort. You just gave to get something to grip it so you can turn it. Or, take your Dremel and see if you can cut a small slot in the top of the stub, then use a screwriver.
Only caveat is to very carefully cover holes so no shavings get down in the engine.
I'm not sure what bore Dan Martin put in my engine --- 63 or 64 I think --- but that's not much bigger than what you have. Did you put a crank in? I recall Alley saying that was a big torque booster ... I don't have a reference point of an engine this size without a crank, but with one it's pretty strong.