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Post by rcq92130 on May 26, 2016 13:29:04 GMT -5
Mark - did you ever get this figured out?
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Post by rcq92130 on May 23, 2016 21:06:53 GMT -5
Ha, I remember when you were talking about doing that, P-Guy. So .... you ended up taking a dull hack saw and chopping up the casting?
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Post by rcq92130 on May 22, 2016 21:12:20 GMT -5
Been a while since I lived there, but as far as I know beantown, p-town, key west ..... all the same thing. And that would be a no!
BTW - why do you suppose "P-Town" is named after "P-Guy"?
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Post by rcq92130 on May 22, 2016 13:52:37 GMT -5
Wandering idle sounds like a vacuum leak. Hard to tune the carb until all vac leaks are corrected.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 22, 2016 13:24:54 GMT -5
Ha! I luv you too, P-Guy. Not in a "Boston" sense, mind you. I might live in Calif but ..... well, you get it.
Goldwing (lovingly referred to as a Leadwing) comes with Showas on the back. But they bottom out all the time, have crappy damping, etc.
Those things you showed look G R E A T !!! Are they mainly / only for dirt, or also for street?
ps: Have you heard from GEH? He seems to have dropped off the edge of the planet ...
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Post by rcq92130 on May 21, 2016 18:21:24 GMT -5
What is that clicky thing?
And what is that BEEEAUTIFUL LCD display, and all those cool colored lights, doing on a scooter??? Me want!
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Post by rcq92130 on May 21, 2016 11:41:18 GMT -5
THERE ya go! One of the first things I did was to pull out the crappy springs in the forks and put in Progressive's. Helped a lot. Goldwings also come with on-board air compressors, so you can vary the air pressure in the forks. For me (and many others) still too "spongy", so the common remedy is to add a bit of  -weight until you get the 'feel' you want. Right now it's perfect - but I need to go after the rear shocks b/c they still suck even with the max air pressure that's allowable. Will first try some heavy weight oil added to what's in there (20-weight fork oil) and hope that sorts it out. On the rears, getting them apart to replace the springs is way tougher, so i hope it doesn't come down to that. And, anyway, I don't ride the thing all that much any longer now that I have the scooter with Martin's SuperEngine. WAAAY easier and perfect, except for longer rides! |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 19, 2016 20:03:48 GMT -5
Given the refineries blend different viscosity oils together to get the 20-weight or 30-weight they wish to sell, it's not serious to say "you can't blend oil" or call it "a cocktail" (yep, YOU, P-guy!)
Honda Goldwings weigh about 900 pounds and are notoriously spongy in the front end. It's a common practice to "TUNE" your suspension for the ride you want by mixing up oil viscosity. Why tuning a scooter front end is crazy is unclear to me.
Tune your variator by changing weights. Tune your front suspension by changing viscosity. It's America.
ps: just don't mix traditional oil (including almost all "fork oil" and transmission oil) with synthetic oil. They just don't play well together.
pss: some people advocate changing your fork oil every 10k to 20k miles, though there is no specific standard. Others say to do so when a seal leaks. Whenever doing a complete change (not just a viscosity tune), it's always a good idea to clean the fork internals thoroughly. Lain gave an excellent method of doing so several comments up.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 15, 2016 16:37:56 GMT -5
Instead of just randomly replacing compnents, it's actully simpler (and cheaper) to just find the source of the problem with your multimeter. www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/This is long winded, so here is the Cliff's Notes version: With the key OFF: 1. Disconnect the (-) wire at the battery. 2. Make sure your multimeter leads are plugged into the AMPS socket (probably the same socket for the black (-) wire, but for the red (+) wire NOT the same as when testing volts or ohms 3. Start with the multimeter set to high amps (say, 10 amps - varies by meter) just to be careful about not toasting your meter 4. Clip the black meter wire to the battery's (-) terminal post and the red meter wire (+) to the battery ground cable you disconnected in step 1. In this way all current drawn by your scooter will go THROUGH the meter. 5. Make sure the current drain isn't more than an amp, then switch your multimeter to the lower setting (milliamps). Normal leakage current is less than 50 milliamps. If yours is low like that the problem is a bad battery. Presumably you will find leakage current higher since you already tried a new battery. Let's say your current drain is 100 mA. 6. Just start disconnecting plugs until you see the leakage current on the meter drop. You just located the problem, which may be either bad wires, an incorrect connection, or a bad component DOWNSTREAM of the plug you disconnected. It can't be easier. Just make sure you give it a rest every few minutes by disconnecting the multimeter lead from the battery (or ground strap - either one) so the internals of the meter do not heat up and get burned up. On something as simple as a scooter - as long as you have access to the plugs - you can go thru the whole wiring system in 15 or 30 minutes max. |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 14, 2016 14:38:56 GMT -5
I'm confused. Didn't you hook up your ammeter to see what the drain current is? If you did, it's not that hard to track down where the problem is - just start unplugging connectors until the drain current drops (anything less than 40 or so mA is fine - and if you are there and the battery STILL craps out it's the battery, not the scoot). Aftermarket alarms are notorious for drawing a lot of idle current ...
ps: always hook the ammeter on the (-) side of the battery (disconnect (-) and hook the ammeter between the (-) ground wire and the (-) battery terminal where it normally attaches. Doing so on the (+) side always runs the risk of a short that trashes your meter.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 9, 2016 13:21:23 GMT -5
Yeah, I had a bad experience last year also. Got yelled at here for writing about it.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 3, 2016 14:00:11 GMT -5
Like I said, fork oil is approx the weight of transmission oil (except that the weight of trans oil is not controlled). There are different weights available - 10 02 12 ... maybe 15. And like I said - try just adding a small bit of weight to what is already in there to stiffen it up. You can remove the forks and make a big deal out of it if you wish ... but just opening the top (unweight the wheel first!) and with an eyedropper squirt in a little blurt of heavy weight oil. It will mix with what's in there and make it a higher viscosity. |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 2, 2016 13:35:27 GMT -5
Assuming you have a triple tree, the shocks are held at the top by pinch bolts to the triple tree.
you can try loosening the pinch bolts (atop BOTH struts) and see if you can then straddle the front wheel and tweek the handlebars a little bit in the direction you need as you would with a bicycle.
Better if you unload the front (jack or blocks under the floorboard so the front tire is just touching the ground) so the shocks are not pushed up in the pinch bolts when loose.
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 30, 2016 16:59:59 GMT -5
I have a Honda Goldwing - much, much heavier, but with the same issue.
Fork oil normally isn't synthetic. I doubt China has synthetic oil in anything. Thus, you can add any conventional oil to your fork oil, which is about weight 10 to 15 (unfortunately, fork oil is not well controlled like car oil). I actually used ninety weight oil added to normal fork oil (so a little would make a significant difference). Worked great.
Can't advise how much to add - just do a trial and error. But make sure you MEASURE and add the same quantity to each fork.
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 28, 2016 7:02:01 GMT -5
Hi John!
But actually removing the cover ...
Once the flywheel and stator are off, it's just a matter of unscrewing 1/2 dozen 8mm bolts ... right? Maybe some fumbling with the gasket when putting it back together.
Other than the seal removal itself - is there anything hidden or is it as simple as I suspect?
Oh yeah - have to dig out the woodruff key
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-weight until you get the 'feel' you want. Right now it's perfect - but I need to go after the rear shocks b/c they still suck even with the max air pressure that's allowable. Will first try some heavy weight oil added to what's in there (20-weight fork oil) and hope that sorts it out. On the rears, getting them apart to replace the springs is way tougher, so i hope it doesn't come down to that.