|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 27, 2016 12:06:19 GMT -5
Request for advice:
So my scooter sat for a while and one of the super high-tech Vton seals developed a "weep". Making this a little more challenging, I'm still sort of working with only 1 arm (surgery on the left shoulder), so I'd appreciate knowing clearly about what's involved in removing the cover before starting.
The cover is on the right, behind the flywheel. I've removed the flywheel and stator on this engine, so I know that. But I've not gone beyond the stator. Looks like just 1/2 dozen bolts and the cover comes off - but with only 1 wing to work with, better ask ahead of time
Is there anything else I should know about before launching into this?
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 26, 2016 9:45:36 GMT -5
Hahahaha. You're mocking me, P-Guy! I need a safe space!
Yeah, this operation (it's the 2nd time - did it a decade ago and promptly wacked the thing 4 months later) isn't very painful but recovery is sloooooow. Trying to be a good boy this time and follow orders. Which for me is like a pig trying to fly.
Am not "supposed" to be using the left arm yet, but .... :
So the scooter sat for a while and one of my high tech pton seals has developed a weep. It's the case seal on the right side, behind the flywheel. Probably the easiest one to get to, thankfully. Slight weep - but it bets me homicidal every morning when I go out and there is that little wet spot on the floor. Damned thing has no manners or couth.
I have a flywheel puller. Any other special tools needed to remove that case part?
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 23, 2016 15:14:25 GMT -5
They do not ship with a full gas tank. put gas in that puppy
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 23, 2016 14:05:39 GMT -5
Dunno, but it's a lot. Took mine to a local machine shop (small - they had a free-standing press driven by a 20 ton hydraulic jack) and it was tough for them to get the old gear started and off.
But a mach shop will only charge $5 or $10, even here in Ca. Why bother doing it yourself?
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 18, 2016 19:29:31 GMT -5
Nice lookin scoot!
Love the color. Almost like GEH's scoot (the fastest 150cc scoot east of the Mississippi).
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 18, 2016 19:26:43 GMT -5
Shoulder surgery 10 weeks ago put the Martin SuperScooter out to pasture ... but finally riding again. A few weeks earlier than Doc permits, but what the heck. And it's been in the low 's last 2 days, impossible weather to pass up! SOOO nice to be back in the saddle!
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 15, 2016 12:29:33 GMT -5
Hi John!
Did you ever get a chance to look at those 2 CDIs I sent you in December?
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 13, 2016 12:50:43 GMT -5
Put this together last year when thinking thru the gears for my 190 Taida. Maybe it will be of some value.
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 12, 2016 21:14:28 GMT -5
After all was said and done with hidden fees, etc., this was the place that offered the best price for the scoot I was looking for: www.killermotorsports.com/scooters-and-mopeds.htmlMost sites have hidden fees. Be especially careful about mandatory "registration or titling" fees they don't disclose and you only learn when you are about to pay. Just by going to the DMV yourself with the Manufacturer's certificate of Origin you can save $100 off the hidden fees most want to charge.
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 12, 2016 15:16:17 GMT -5
If someone can explain what gy6 is saying or asking, maybe we can help. I've now read this 4 times and for the life of me can't figure out what the question is or what was said.
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 7, 2016 21:23:02 GMT -5
If the starter motor is turning but the engine isn't rotating, it can only be the clutch (the idler gear, which connects the stater motor to the clutch, almost never is the problem)
But if it's working OK and not a risk of stranding you - and not too irritating - why not just live with it?
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 5, 2016 6:56:46 GMT -5
Like Rocky said.
But even a ton of rubber dust, after a while, is normal.
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 4, 2016 23:47:31 GMT -5
There is basically no way to get a 1-cyl GY6 engine below 1K and have it running. Even getting a standard China built GY6 below 1500 is a challenge. Normal idle for a 150 is 1700 or 1800, unless you have a BBK (then slightly higher).
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 4, 2016 23:16:25 GMT -5
You now have it set correctly.
You want it to COUNT 1 spark for every 2 revs. Counting every spark would be proper for a 2-stroke.
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Apr 1, 2016 11:53:51 GMT -5
He cannot get a sensible compression reading because he can't yet get the engine to turn over. it turns until it hits the high point in the compression cycle, and stops. So - compression readings remain meaningless.
WOT should not have any effect at all on the ease of turning over the engine. All that does is make sure the engine breathes as much as it likes. Of course, it might or will affect if the engine actually starts - but not if the engine will turn over. At this point, Mark is still trying to get the thing to just turn over. Something is preventing that - first guess of insufficient starter torque seems to not be the culprit. Starter clutch seems to not be the culprit. To my knowledge the variator belt is off, so some weird lockup on the transmission side seems to not be the culprit. Not much left other than the top end and the crank itself. (Oh - and he took pix some time ago to verify the valve timing was correct). The oddest thing is that when the spark plug is out the engine spins just fine - which, again, implies insufficient starter torque - except Mark ruled that out.
|
|