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Yup, that's the speedo cable. There's a worm gear assembly in the housing that spins the steel cable all the way up to the speedo. Just a little grease leaking out. No biggy.



The second picture is indeed brakes. If that leaks you need to fix it pronto.

Less expensive, but you get what you pay for.

I've got a mostly unmodified Chinese 150 with 12" wheels and a very restrictive exhaust and it maxes out on level ground at less than indicated 60. Run hard it will maintain 50-55 indicated. The GPS numbers are considerably less impressive. With some tuning that may yet happen, it might do more. Depends on how much money I want to throw at it.

The smaller wheels don't have as much effect on speed as they do ride comfort and stability. 12" wheels bash through bumps and potholes that 18" wheels don't even notice. At higher speeds the small wheels are skittish where bigger wheels just get their groove going.

Secondary roads and quiet times are no problem. At busier times you just need to plan your route carefully to minimize your exposure on the big roads. I generally avoid open state and county roads because it just won't keep up with traffic if there is any uphill slope. Plenty of secondary road options though that are nearly as quick with much less traffic to worry about.

If you can afford a 250, just do it. Especially if that's what you're already used to, then you won't even have to think about it. Next best recommendation would be if you must downsize then get a newer 4-valve, fuel injected motor. (Vespa, Honda, Kymco?) They're already tuned to get the most bang for the displacement.

Cracking the throttle is letting in more air. So your mixture must be too rich.

If it won't idle down, you need to back it down in steps, (idle stop, mixture screw), until it will.

Brain fart. I was thinking of automotive drum brakes that have a star-wheel and a spreader.

Scooter drum brakes only have a rotating paddle that actuates the brakes shoes.

What GEH said: If you've already run out of thread on the pushrod and you still don't feel any braking, then try removing the lever arm and repositioning it a notch or two to give you more adjustment range. If still a no go, (or no stop rather), then you'll need to check the drum and the shoes to make sure everything is assembled correctly and within spec.

Which one? The one at the end of the pushrod? Or the one inside the drum?

The one on the pushrod may or may not have a lock nut or a jam nut that needs to be loosened first.

The one inside the drum is more likely a victim of age and decrepitude due to being in close proximity to dust, dirt, and water. Just gotta squirt some stuff in there without soaking your brake shoes.

Definitely concerned about a replacement bushing fitting correctly. Every internet listing I find seems to have slightly different specs listed, (or none at all). Plus this is one of those Znen BN157QMJ motors that you always have to double check to everything to make sure which parts are standard and which are different. I was more than a little disappointed that there wasn't one included with the new kit that I could count on to mate up correctly. Especially since I spent the extra dollars to purchase a better quality name brand variator instead of a generic.

The original bushing seems to have lost it's chrome plating, (if it ever had any). Been through the normal learning curve of trying grease, and light oil, and graphite, and they all quickly gunk up and stick. I've needed to remove and clean the variator bushings at each oil change to keep it working correctly.

I'm surprised that the bushings are not more readily available as an individual item. That leads me to believe that they don't fail and require replacement all that often. Mine may be a one off defect. Or maybe the oilite bushing in the original variator was an inferior piece. Who knows? I'll just have to order a new bushing and twiddle my thumbs until it arrives.