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Post by william42 on Jun 21, 2015 22:08:22 GMT -5
The thing is, what's it worth to you!? Search your heart and give him a fair price. But since you have it in your possession he was probably glad just to get rid of it and get anything for it. Offer him the $200.00 he paid the shop last time. I'd be willing to bet he'd take it. If not, give it back to him and tell him to sell it and give you a fair price for the time you have in it. He'll take the two hundred.
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Post by william42 on Jun 13, 2015 19:08:03 GMT -5
It does not. And now it doesn't have an odometer either.
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Post by william42 on Jun 13, 2015 18:14:09 GMT -5
That's exactly what I tried to do Paladin. But the wheels are, in some places, egg shaped, so the teeth on the wheels jam against the gears that drive them. The glass on the speedometer cover must have acted like a magnifying glass and melted them pretty bad. The wheels sagged and there's just no fixing them. I did try though.
And now I find, no matter where I look, that nobody has my instrument panel set-up. Bummer!
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Post by william42 on Jun 13, 2015 7:51:02 GMT -5
I forgot to cover my instrument cluster at work the other day and the sun was so hot that it distorted my Odometer numbers wheel so bad that the numbers no longer turn. The odometer is forever stuck on 2,870 miles unless I can replace the wheel. Can I buy just the odometer numbers or wheel separately or do I have to replace the whole instrument cluster as an assembly? Anybody know these things?
BMS Heritage 150.
Thanks in advance...
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Post by william42 on May 6, 2015 19:40:33 GMT -5
Translation please.
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Post by william42 on Apr 23, 2015 21:17:31 GMT -5
BMS Heritage.
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Post by william42 on Mar 15, 2015 16:06:09 GMT -5
Yessir! Everything is as it came in the box. 2,490 miles. How's it look?
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Post by william42 on Mar 15, 2015 12:05:39 GMT -5
What have you tried so far?
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Post by william42 on Mar 14, 2015 11:32:42 GMT -5
Just once. The Scooter keeps it charged.
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Post by william42 on Mar 14, 2015 4:41:46 GMT -5
I bought a 1 amp charger from Auto Zone for about ten bucks.
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Post by william42 on Mar 13, 2015 18:38:03 GMT -5
I believe you, but it makes no sense to me. If an engine is running lean that means less fuel right? Less fuel means a smaller explosion within the cylinder right? A smaller explosion means less heat right? But a lean conditions causes over heating? I don't get it.
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Post by william42 on Mar 13, 2015 11:26:05 GMT -5
Now I didn't mean to imply that you SHOULDN'T mod your scooter, that's up to you. I just decided not to, at least for the short term. What happens down the road will almost certainly change things. But initially, I left mine as-is and it worked out ok for me.
And as for running too lean, what are the long term affects of such a condition? And I have no plans of ever disconnecting the emissions.
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Post by william42 on Mar 13, 2015 8:44:11 GMT -5
It aint no biggy really. The only way I'm going to learn this stuff is if I participate and try things. It's good conversation at the very least. And let me clarify my vague meaning when I said I can ride at WOT all day. I can, but I don't. I too ride mostly at 45-50 mph. Mostly because that's the speed limit and I also don't want to stress that one little cylinder of mine for too long. Especially in this heat. I just wanted to connect the WOT riding before the break-in period brought on an issue that really wouldn't have been an issue had I followed the manufacturers break-in speeds per miles put on the odometer. I used to not be able to run at WOT for more than 5 or 10 seconds because the float bowl would run dry. I still don't know why that happened but now I can run at WOT "all day" (if I wanted to) and I have plenty of fuel. I'm a mechanic by trade, just not an internal combustion mechanic. I keep an eye on valve adjustments, tire pressure, oil changes, oiling here and there, that sort of thing. And I don't ride in the rain because lord only knows what will happen to the electrical system and connections and switches when they get wet. I'm just not taking that chance. This is my first scooter so I'm going to have to learn the hard way how and why things are the way they are. But I keep a sharp eye and ear out for things. She'll tell me when she's not doing so well. It is then that I will park her and not put on another mile until the problem is found and resolved. I'll go get a new plug this morning, then on Saturday I'll do a hard 5 mile ride in a 55 zone and pull the plug, take a photo and post it for y'all to have a look at. But I'm still going to make the final decision for my Betsy Mae!
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Post by william42 on Mar 13, 2015 5:28:37 GMT -5
This is exactly my point as to why I didn't do mods on my bike. I'm getting conflicting reports even on how to read a photo of a plug. Not my photo, the other photo. So I try to make a conclusion based on everything I read throughout a thread and base my decision from that. There's generally too much conflict so I leave it as is. Again, no offence intended.
Now, I would have to admit, based on what I've read so far, that I'm probably running a little lean. I also base that assumption on the way my scooter starts. It never fires right up. I have to coax it a little after it sits all night. She fires right away if she's been sitting for less than, say, ten hours but after that it takes a few seconds. Like ten seconds.
And down here in Mississippi, during most of the riding season, it frickin' hot! And Humid! I rode about half of December, less than that in January, and only once in February. I started it up the other day just to see how she fared after sitting for a month. All was normal. And I'm a fair weather rider. She stays home if it's raining or if there's a chance of rain. I don't know if any of that pertains to reading a spark plug, but I threw it in there anyway.
I'll get a new plug and do the chop thingy and post a photo for y'alls analysis.
But getting back to the original poster, if you're still reading this, just leave your scooter as-is and follow the manufacturers break-in procedure, then post any issues for these guys to help you with. I even left in the original oil for the first 300 miles. Just like the manufacturer said to do. Maybe it's a special blend for the break-in period? I don't know but I'm pleased with the results my decisions have yielded.
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