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Post by toddmaples on Jan 7, 2015 12:37:18 GMT -5
tap into the exhaust header just after the flange and plumb back to the valve cover? ..Or remove the system all together. It robs powah!
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 30, 2014 10:02:56 GMT -5
I have a 2013 taotao that starts and runs for about 30sec and theyi it stops think it runs out of gas I think that it set for 5 or 10 mim and starts again for 30 40sec any ids alleyoop alleyoop, beachbum Check for vapor lock taotao gas caps are garbage. Take gas cap off tank and see if it runs alright. If it does get a new gas cap or drill a breather hole in yours. If this helped how about throwin some bones? |
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 28, 2014 8:27:59 GMT -5
I have a 2013 taotao that starts and runs for about 30sec and theyi it stops think it runs out of gas I think that it set for 5 or 10 mim and starts again for 30 40sec any ids alleyoop alleyoop, beachbum Check for vapor lock taotao gas caps are garbage. Take gas cap off tank and see if it runs alright. If it does get a new gas cap or drill a breather hole in yours. |
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 23, 2014 15:59:43 GMT -5
The VIP future champ has two lights I want both on at the same time. I will try and get some pics of the wiring Should be two wires to both lights, one green and the other another color. Take the non green wire, splice into it and run it to the other lights non green wire terminal. Im not responsible if you fry your stator from to much load. |
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 23, 2014 14:03:29 GMT -5
You can use helicoils by drilling the hole larger, inserting a helicoil, and then installing the new stud. Most auto parts stores have loaner kits. Wish you guys would push GOOD thread repair solutions as much as you do HeliCoils... For the BEST thread repair solution for exhaust studs view my thread on fixing stripped holes. It cam be found by going to my started threads or searching my username. Or here: itistheride.boards.net/thread/6971/fix-stripped-hole-pics |
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 23, 2014 12:36:27 GMT -5
Still trying to figure out how to get the front plastic off. There is DEFINITELY a steering bearing problem. I look up from the forks under the fender, and you can actually SEE the bearings in the lower cup... there is a huge gap. I'm hoping nothing is damaged and that none of the ball bearings is missing. That is my goal for my next week off... to figure out how to get to the upper part of the fork where I can tighten them. A video on youtube seems to indicate that you can unloosen all the screws and the front panel will come off exposing the upper part of the fork. Correct. There is a spanner-type nut and a hex nut used as a jamb nut in there. Tighten those up and this issue will be resolved. I suggest some grease on the bearings also if its already that loose shouldnt be hard to pack it good. |
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 23, 2014 12:35:30 GMT -5
Still trying to figure out how to get the front plastic off. There is DEFINITELY a steering bearing problem. I look up from the forks under the fender, and you can actually SEE the bearings in the lower cup... there is a huge gap. I'm hoping nothing is damaged and that none of the ball bearings is missing. That is my goal for my next week off... to figure out how to get to the upper part of the fork where I can tighten them. A video on youtube seems to indicate that you can unloosen all the screws and the front panel will come off exposing the upper part of the fork. Correct. There is a spanner-type nut and a hex nut used as a jamb nut in there. Tighten those up and this issue will be resolved. I suggest some grease on the bearings also if its already that loose shouldnt be hard to pack it good. |
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 8, 2014 14:08:09 GMT -5
Will do. I'll take it apart and have a look if the hole is wallowed out you may have to torque down on it real hard to get it to stay. Last one I done needed a 28" 3/8dr ratchet to tighten up good enough where vibrations wouldnt loosen it over short periods of time. |
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 8, 2014 10:11:45 GMT -5
The when using the center stand, the front wheel should only be affected by an incline the scooter is on. If on flat ground, the front wheel should remain in whatever position you put it in, and should not have a tendency towards any direction. This. When put on the center stand, the front wheel will flop over to the right rather than staying centered. When brought back to center, it will flop over the right-hand again. Check that the bars is in line with the tire. Center tire and check location of handlebars. Adjust as needed by loosening neck bolt and retightening in desired position. In my experience this is the only thing that'll make a bike "pull" unless something is bent or damaged. By neck bolt I mean the bolt going through the bottom of the handlebar assembly and the top of the fork assembly. If you cant find it let me know and ill posta pic if I can. |
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 5, 2014 13:12:30 GMT -5
May be a dirty carb or bad gas. Clean the carb the best you can as its a sealed carb from factory and try some known good petrol.
Check air filter for cleanliness and make sure your intake manifold isnt cracked. Check all vacuum lines also.
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Post by toddmaples on Dec 1, 2014 16:49:06 GMT -5
Check the bolts with a thread gauge and order the best quality nuts in that size and pitch.  Not everyone has a thread gauge at the house... Most home improvement/hardware stores have the ability to measure bolt size and thread pattern if you can get an old bolt or same size from elsewhere on the bike. |
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Post by toddmaples on Nov 25, 2014 12:46:50 GMT -5
it's 4.1oz vs 7.3 oz stock, Can't find much more about it or any of the others. I'm sure it will work just fine . I'm thinking about opening up my cvt cover a little more in the the spring to allow for better cooling . or I can just buy the ncy drive face fan thats made for the finless drive face . I have the Hoca drive face with fins, does a great job of moving air, but it is louder than stock due to the air movement. |
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Post by toddmaples on Nov 25, 2014 12:25:18 GMT -5
I would if I could find the part I needed. I went into a local shop and asked the "expert" there if they carried the part I was looking for, and he looked at me with a third eye. It's a Y connector for the fuel line. Go to local auto parts store and buy a "T" vacuum fitting, should be about the same size or slightly larger for a tight fit. May come in a pack of assorted fittings, so make sure to look closely. |
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Post by toddmaples on Nov 25, 2014 7:18:39 GMT -5
I'm back once again with another issue with my EuroStrada RX125. This time, I was riding home from work when I heard a clinking sound, like metal on metal, and that's when she bit the dust. I went ahead and took a look to see what was causing the issue. I'm getting spark, and there's no issue with my petcock, fuel lines, or fuel flow. However, when I tested to see if when I cranked my engine over if fuel would flow into a cup, it did not. But I did when I sucked on the vacuum line as opposed to having it connected. I'm not sure if this is because my Y-connecter is shredded and temporarily fixed at the moment, or another issue. I'm sure it's not starting because of the lack of vacuum, but I could very well be wrong. Fix your vac lines the correct way first. If that doesn't help, then check compression. Low compression means low vacuum too. |
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Post by toddmaples on Nov 25, 2014 7:13:45 GMT -5
OK guys, new question. Running lean at idle, popping and stuttering from cracked throttle to about1/3 the way through...I'd need a larger pilot if I'm more than 3.5 rotations out on my a/f screw right? Just trying to wrap my head around this Carb tuning thing... Did you notice if the header has a bigger diameter opening then the stock ? I've seem some that said high performance but turns out the chrome was the only difference . popping on excel could be a rich condition . something is not adding up here . I'm concerned your stock head is restricting airflow making the free flow exhaust and air filter inefficient. Found a cracked intake boot, was leaning way out since I first tried to tune the Carb. New one ordered, will try to tune again after install. |
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