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Post by toddmaples on Jun 12, 2015 15:29:51 GMT -5
Also forgot to mention, the engine ran with a sawed off exhaust tube to make it loud it's entire life, it has about 500 miles on it. I see so many scooters in Boston with sawed off exhausts, then wonder why I don't se them anymore a month later, I bet this is why lol, stupid kids. *SMH* Probably caused a lean and overheat condition... Only way to know for sure is to wrench on it though. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 12, 2015 9:15:48 GMT -5
So I picked up an engine for a spare, got it for free so no biggie, when I turn the flywheel I get to the T and it gets stuck, and if I turn it the other way it gets stuck about a half turn of the flywheel. Seized piston maybe? Is that how a seized piston would act? If it is can I ditch the topend and put on another topend? Never seen a seized engine in person before so I can't say for sure if it is what I think it is till I order some topend pieces at least. Maybe that, severly out of time, or timing chain broke/kink/to slack. Pull the valve cover and check the timing. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 11, 2015 15:13:30 GMT -5
My variator doesn't have any Teflon coating. I'm starting to think it's from the clutch assembly and clutch pads. I noticed my take offs are somewhat jerky. Like the clutch grabs the bell almost instantly, than slips a few times before it solidly engages and I pull away. Clutch pad dust? But still weird why it would all gather inside the variator. Other than that I have no clue the source. Weights look fine, belt is fine, there is no Teflon coating, just simple stock variator I believe your correct. If the belt and rollers seem ok , then that only leaves the clutch pads. But man , that's a lot of dust , and in a very short time . I'd tear the clutch completely apart and inspect everything. Remember to grease the clutch bearings when you reintall the clutch. I believe you have a broke clutch spring and one pad is instantly slinging out and wearing... Tear it apart and inspect. Let us know what is found. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 9, 2015 10:29:15 GMT -5
Quoted for truth. TaoTao caps the adjustment screw at the factory. Simplest solution is buy an adjustable carb, especially if any other mods are planned in the future. Cheapest solution is drill a small hole in the cap and pry it off or CAREFULLY drill the entire top off the cap. Note the bowl screws are tamper-proofed also, so the new adjustable carb will save time in the long run. My 0.02$ I agree. It is so much easier to just buy an aftermarket carb from Scrappy Dogs or other online sellers. The plus side also is that you will have spare parts in case of problems. Salvage everything you can from the stock carb, then scrap/trash the rest. Grinder works good for getting to the bowl components on tamper proof carbs but this is only for scavaging spare parts as it will not be repairable afterwards. Id also suggest getting a jet kit if you are planning on other mods such as a freeflow exhaust or bbk or head work. Any questions just ask, I have built one of the TaoTao engines to "100cc" and will be happy to provide help. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 9, 2015 8:53:01 GMT -5
itistheride.boards.net/thread/12/4ts-carb-tuningeverything you will need to know about carburetor tuning (although watching a video or two wouldn't hurt) Also, if is possible that your carb may need a little modification, I have a taotao and the carb on it was ment to be "tamper proof" i guess would be the phrase basically they cap off where the adjustment screw is Quoted for truth. TaoTao caps the adjustment screw at the factory. Simplest solution is buy an adjustable carb, especially if any other mods are planned in the future. Cheapest solution is drill a small hole in the cap and pry it off or CAREFULLY drill the entire top off the cap. Note the bowl screws are tamper-proofed also, so the new adjustable carb will save time in the long run. My 0.02$ |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 8, 2015 12:57:27 GMT -5
Hi guys. I discovered my bike was stored with a disconnected fuel line, which meant the carb is empty and clean. However the fuel line was disconnected between the carb and the vacuum operated sending unit whatever it's called. I found the fuel filter in the under seat bucket. Each end of the fuel line has the little clamps so I am pretty sure that's where the fuel filter WAS. My question is shouldnt the fuel filter be placed in the line right after the fuel tank and not just before the carb? Could there be another one lurking under the plastic covering the tank? There is no issue with having two is there? Thanks! Vince having two means more places for a failure point. Line from vac-operated petcock to carb bowl usually holds the filter. |
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Headlight
by: toddmaples - Jun 8, 2015 12:54:08 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by toddmaples on Jun 8, 2015 12:54:08 GMT -5
My high beam is not working do I just replace the bulb? If so does anyone have info on how to do this and if I can put in a led etc...... If the bulb is blown, replace it. If no electricity to the bulb then its either the hi-low switch, Regulator rectifier, or stator. Or bad wiring between any of those components. Try replacing the bulb first. If no change let us know and we will help as best we can. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 8, 2015 10:50:20 GMT -5
I'd say by run adjusting the float. If its the float , bigger fuel line won't help. Seconded. On an unrelated note i had this happen today. Plug boot was loose and high speed vibrations was causing it to miss giving the illusion of fuel delivery problems at speed. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 8, 2015 10:47:25 GMT -5
Another good idea is not to buy avariator with the Teflon coating. It seems as if most of the more expensive variators don't have the coating. I had one put out so much dust that it jammed the boss inside the variator. I had to pound the boss out of the variator !! This has happened to me on other peoples bikes also, teflon "glued" the boss and variator together due to heat i believe. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 8, 2015 8:16:25 GMT -5
I agree that is excessive. If no visible wear has occured you can safely bet everything is good. Try blowing out the entire cvt with compressed air, lube the rollers with graphite, reassemble and try 'er again... Edit: Forgot to specify what to use the graphite on. I actually have slider weights. Do I need to use graphite on them too? I never used graphite in the past and never had any problems with the variator. Rollers require less lubrication (graphite) than sliders, but its always a good idea to put a small amount on each roller prior to assembly. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 6, 2015 7:24:15 GMT -5
I recently replaced my variator and clutch and after a single ride for a few hours, I noticed there is a ton of black-brownish dust under the variator plate and all over the weights. The belt is in good condition and the variator is fine as well. I don't really see any dust outside of the variator. The rest of the CVT area is clean. What is causing this massive build up of dust only within the variator? The weights are still in good condition as well. No plastic is worn off.  Wow , that was clean before the run ? That's a lot of dirt/dust. I agree that is excessive. If no visible wear has occured you can safely bet everything is good. Try blowing out the entire cvt with compressed air, lube the rollers with graphite, reassemble and try 'er again... Edit: Forgot to specify what to use the graphite on. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 4, 2015 6:53:39 GMT -5
The engine mount is different on the two, you have to modify the frame mounts from below to above the engine. I do not know if those particular designs have non-standard mounting points. Looks like it may be time to brush up on my welding and machining skills at work then... Projects like this can be fun or a nightmare, lets hope I can make it fun. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 3, 2015 17:56:31 GMT -5
You're going to have to swap out alot more than just the engine just my thought but you can get a really nice 150cc for the price of that 50 or less I have a nice 150. I prefer the sportbike riding stance, which is why i want to swap my nice 150 into this frame. Im talking about unbolting the entire engine assembly from the frames and swapping. My current bike can be found in the show us your scooter for reference. |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 3, 2015 17:32:42 GMT -5
Ok guys i have been eyeballing this bike for awhile now. www.motobuys.com/ninja-50-scooter.htmlI have a perfectly good 150cc gy6 with rear drum 13" wheels on my current bike i would like to swap into the above frame. They offer a 150 version of this bike also, but it is out of my price range. Judging by the pics my current 150 should bolt right in place.... My plan is to swap the engines and frames and give the old frame and new 50cc engine to the GF to learn on. Now my question is has anyone here got experience with these new "ninja" style frames? If so, does this swap seem possible with minimal effort? (IE, no weld/fab) |
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Post by toddmaples on Jun 3, 2015 17:23:50 GMT -5
Only effect wet weather has on my bike is belt/clutch slip after sitting in the rain for awhile.
I have a chromed, and vented cvt cover so that is to be expected though.
After about 3mi it dries out and only the wettest conditions affect it then. Nothing to the point of being unsafe though.
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