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Post by toddmaples on Sept 25, 2014 11:55:29 GMT -5
Just wondering whats everyones favorite method for getting these bolts off. Used lube/penetrating oil, let it sit for ~45Mins, still cant turn these dang bolts. Even broke out my long allen wrenches (12" long versus the standard 4-6") and just managed to strip one bolt... GRRR Its going to have to be drilled out now, should I just save some headache and drill the other two while I'm at it then E-Z-Out the lot of them? Any suggestion on replacements, or will any good-grade bolt about the same length work?
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Post by jerseyboy on Sept 25, 2014 12:15:08 GMT -5
Well jesh,,maybe a little heat if its that stubborn..just watch the rubber boots,,but heck these parts are so cheap even if you burn up the seals using a torch at least you wont have to drill and tap..any bolt will work these aren't sport bikes..lol
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Post by toddmaples on Sept 25, 2014 12:24:58 GMT -5
I drilled the head off the bolts and surprise, surprise... EPOXY used as Loc-Tite... Considering I have a brand new tap/die set I've been die'n to use I think I will drill out the old bolts and tap some new standard holes. Will report back later today with pics and stuff if I think of it. these aren't sport bikes..lol No these are not sport bikes, but there is a lot of force on a 13" rim going 65-70MPH down the highway, and even more force on a rotor trying to stop that rim from that speed. Edit: I feel much better with a 3/8" grade 8 bolt in there versus factory. Medium Loctight and split washers keep em in place. Note the rotor will need a clearance increase for the larger bolts for OEM rotors. After drilling with a 1/2" drill bit: Honestly, it wasn't that difficult and if anyone else has to do this, a few tips: have good drill bits, and the rotor is TOUGH so be sure to use cutting fluid/lube.
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Post by rockynv on Sept 26, 2014 3:47:06 GMT -5
I have a silly question - Why were you removing the bolts in the first place? Did you need to have the rotor turned by a machine shop?
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