|
|
Post by hillbillybob on May 20, 2015 7:11:28 GMT -5
This thread is hilarious......I'm having trouble believing geh3333 is for real.... under your tongue ?....seriously? Look....If you want to monitor engine oil temperature you need to get a gauge that is designed to do just that, not something you can stick in a piece of meat to see if it has reached 160*, or under your tongue to see if you have a fever. Something made by Stewart Warner, or VDO....something that says "OIL" on the face of the gauge, and reads to at least 300*F. Then make sure you have the right sender for that gauge. A sender for a 240* water temp gauge, won't work right.....a sender for a gauge with a needle that sweeps 270* won't work right with one that only sweeps  *.....don't think I'd mix a gauge and sender of different brands either...at least not without knowing the resistance numbers. Our scooters need a sender that is a M12x1.5 thread. VDO's part number for one this size, and a gauge with a * sweep, is VDO 323092. I'm sure SW and other gauge makers offer them in this size also. This will replace the oil drain plug on the left side (CVT side) of your engine. You need to have a tool designed to do the job, to get it done right. This is all I'll say on this topic. |
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on May 19, 2015 4:23:11 GMT -5
geh3333, If your oil temps never went over 212* while running hard, then your temp gauge is not very accurate. Maybe a corroded connection, or bad ground. I have 4 vehicles with oil temp gauges (counting my scooter).....all will climb to over 220* in warm weather when worked.....and other than the scoot, they are liquid/water cooled engines. Both my Camaro, and my Forester, run in excess of 200* just cruising along at 60, on level ground. Now the scoot being air cooled, and only holding 24 ounces of oil, (as opposed to 5 or 6 quarts) is naturally going to run a bit warmer....and that's ok. Todays oils are made to handle higher temps than what they did years ago. Thanks to the EPA, engines run hotter today...my Chevy pickup came with a 210* thermostat, and that is what the water temp runs, winter, summer.....always 210*. Oil temps always exceed water temps on a hot day, or when engine is worked (higher throttle settings)
Wikipedi says this.....
In petrol (gasoline) engines, the top piston ring can expose the motor oil to temperatures of 160 °C (320 °F). In diesel engines the top ring can expose the oil to temperatures over 315 °C (600 °F). Motor oils with higher viscosity indices thin less at these higher temperatures.
Boy, that statement might make some people rethink what type of oil they want to use in their scoots, and lastly, if oil temps were supposed to max at 170* to 200* range, oil temp gauges would not read to 300*
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on May 18, 2015 5:04:16 GMT -5
Have to agree with rockynv.....use a new valve cover gasket on the valve cover. Twelve bucks gets you a ten pack of them on fleabay.
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on May 14, 2015 8:13:51 GMT -5
Don't have a spare scoot....but have two large displacement motorcycles.
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on May 14, 2015 7:54:14 GMT -5
A fellow named Shakespeare once said..."Neither a borrower nor a lender be". Guess you can better appreciate that phrase after your misfortune. Hope things work out for you.
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on May 10, 2015 7:06:04 GMT -5
I posted the following on another site a while back: VDO Oil Temperature, Electric, 120*f to 300*f + VDO sender installed in left side oil drain hole. Operating temps vary with ambient air temps, and engine load. I can start scoot, warm it up for 4 to5 minutes, ride 6.8 miles for coffee, and the oil will only get to 180*. Might add that the first 3 of those miles, result in an elevation drop of 1,000 feet. Longer trips of say 12 to 20 miles result with oil temps leveling off at 220* or 230*. Get on a good climb and 240* to 250* is not uncommon. Have seen 260* on occasion, when pulling in the driveway, but it has to be a really hot day. If parked on center stand, and allowed to idle 5 minutes, you can watch the temp drop 15 to 20*.. These numbers are what I've experienced......I don't ride at WOT, if you do, I would expect higher temps. If you ride in  or 100 degree weather. I would expect higher temps. In late fall, with cooler weather, I had days that the oil didn't reach 200*. Now, late yesterday afternoon, the bank thermometer in town read 87* when I started the 7 mile ride back home. In the last 3 miles of this trip, you climb 1000 ft in elevation. When I pulled in driveway, Oil temp was 240*. I run Mobil Delvac 1300, 15w/40.....and don't worry about the temps I am experiencing. |
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on May 2, 2015 5:07:20 GMT -5
I had not run across that one....saved a PDF copy of it in my scooter file....may come in handy someday.....thanks for posting
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on Apr 17, 2015 4:09:08 GMT -5
I have two belts here both 835 20. One is my old one and the other is a new one that I bought at a local shop here in town. The new one is 18mm wide and the old one is 14mm. Wassup with that? I worry that the width will mess up my drive face fan. It's difficult to get it all on there and bolted up. I just went through this belt width thing a few months ago. I run the same 835 20 30 belt you speak of...Gates Premium (PL30507). These belts measure 19.2mm wide when new in their package, not the advertised 20mm. My findings were verified on another forum, when someone measured two new Gates belts he had, a 835 20, and a 842 20.....both were 19mm. I believe you would find the same difference in actual and advertised widths in a Bando, for I have one of those with only several hundred miles on it, and it measures 18.66mm. |
|
|
|
fuel pump
by: hillbillybob - Apr 10, 2015 19:29:07 GMT -5
lain likes this
Post by hillbillybob on Apr 10, 2015 19:29:07 GMT -5
There is a big difference between a fuel pump, and a fuel petcock.
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on Apr 10, 2015 4:26:50 GMT -5
My little plastic, mainland China manufactured scooter, has disc brakes front and rear.
As SylvreKat said, it is not all that rare.....and as urbanmadness stated, there is nothing wrong with drum brakes on a properly maintained vehicle.....be it a scooter, my old 66 Pontiac, or the big rigs I made a living with for nearly 4 decades.
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on Apr 4, 2015 15:26:38 GMT -5
Lain, you are describing a classic case of excessive blowby.....your piston rings are not sealing the combustion chamber as they should. They are shot... and your engine is due a top end overhaul...or...if it has already been rebuilt or modified with a BBK, then the rings were installed incorrectly. It really doesn't matter which, I'd get it fixed.
The catch can I mentioned above won't help you, at least not until your blowby issue is resolved.
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on Apr 4, 2015 9:25:49 GMT -5
I just answered this same question on another forum.......Here is what I did. I might add, that I have never had one drop of any liquid drip from the output hose....it is bone dry after 5500 miles and almost 3 years of operation. catch canPS: If you click on each picture, you'll get a larger view, and the caption that is below each |
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on Mar 29, 2015 17:30:27 GMT -5
A lot, if not most of our scooters have AC powered head and tail lights. Brake and turn signals are DC. As far as converting to LED headlight, I know some bulbs will operate on both, and others state DC only, and if operated on AC, bulb will fail. So if you can find one that fits, and works on both, you should be ok.
I have a LED stop/tail light bulb in mine. I know it operates on both currents, engine needs to be running to light the tail light, and at idle it pulsates.....stop light will come on as long as ignition switch is on, engine doesn't need to be running. I converted to this LED bulb almost 3 years ago, still works just fine.
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on Mar 28, 2015 5:24:26 GMT -5
I tried to steer you to some help on another forum (different user name on that one). I don't remember you mentioning the shudder on take off, just the clink. Generally, a shudder ia an indication that the clutch pads are glazed, and easily fixed by giving them a light sanding. It doesn't take much.....just enough to remove the shiny areas. You are going to have to pull that cover off and have a look see at both the variator, and the clutch.
|
|
|
|
Post by hillbillybob on Mar 23, 2015 9:45:23 GMT -5
A 6000 mile change interval is reasonable, and I could live with that.....it's those that feel it necessary to replace them every 1500 or 2000 miles, that I don't understand. If it happens that your plug is shot that quickly, your scoot needs more attention than just a plug change. I too ran a bit over 6500 miles last season....Though not all on my scoot, because I have to split my riding time up between it and the 2 bigger bikes. Scoot logged 2,773....Schultz logged 1,586.....Dooley logged 2,164 [img src=" ![]() i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/rks3526/photo.jpg" src=" " alt=" "] |
|
*.....don't think I'd mix a gauge and sender of different brands either...at least not without knowing the resistance numbers. 
or 100 degree weather. I would expect higher temps.