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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 3, 2014 0:01:36 GMT -5
Yeah cleaning the carb is a common thing and easy to eliminate in troubleshooting . I have gotten bad gas with water in it before . My scoot had ran like a dream but the next day no start . Had fire , compression and fuel but no go . I drained the tank and carb , refilled with gas from a trusted source and it was new again . On my other scoot I had a vacuum hose come off and it ran terrible with a power loss . I put on a screw down clamp to hold the hose on and it was good again .
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 23:57:11 GMT -5
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 23:38:23 GMT -5
A buddy of mine broke off his exhaust pipe and muffler and rode it for two months like so . he did not upjet so it was running very lean which made it run hotter . The exhaust valve head broke off of the stem and ate up the head and piston and he had to buy a new top end kit
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 23:14:43 GMT -5
A worn belt will not be as stiff as a new one . A worn variator can also cause it to wiggle . Look up Minarelli variator by Koso on Ebay as it is better and cheaper than an OEM one .
My Gates belt was smooth riding I put on a Bando Kevlar and it had a vibration that the Gates did not . Same thing on my 150 but it smoothed out after 3k miles but on my 2T is got worse . So I ordered a Gates belt and Koso variator from Ebay to replace mine . Note the diff in the belt movements of a 2T vs a 4T
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 22:59:00 GMT -5
If you removed the exhaust restriction make sure to upjet which is install a larger main jet in the carb . Most use Mikuni VM11/22 Mjs . Remove and weigh your rollers . Lighter can rev higher but too light will have a top end loss . Heavier can have more top end but less on take off and up hill .
A BBK will do wonders ! The 50 had an exhaust port shaped like a D and only would hit 8k RPMs while riding even though it hit 10k on the center stand ( dumb idea to rev that high but I only did it for a split second ) . The BBK the exhaust port was an O shaped and now hits 10,500 RPMs since it flows better .
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oil?
by: skuttadawg - Jul 2, 2014 22:43:39 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 22:43:39 GMT -5
Make sure it says oil injector friendly instead of premix only if you use the oil tank
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premix?
by: skuttadawg - Jul 2, 2014 22:42:48 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 22:42:48 GMT -5
I premix at 50 to 1 , which is 3 ozs per gallon since 4 it ran hotter and not as good . Premix is safer but a hassle . You can always upgrade to a Mikuni oil pump later if you opt to but you may need another throttle cable part that has two leads instead of just one
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 22:38:14 GMT -5
Cheap oil with smoke and leave a com trail . Full or synthetic blend will smoke a tad bit at start up when it is cold but not or not much after it warms up . I like Maxxima Pro synthetic blend around 10 a quart . If you have the extra cabbage Motul 710 is great but 17 a quart . Make sure whatever oil you get says injector instead of premix only if using the oil tank . Smoking on startup is a great sign which means it is getting oil . A buddy ran his Elite oil tank dry and it seized up destroying the rings and piston .
You may have to ride it some more to burn up the old oil before smoking stops or lessens . If it still does with the premium oil beyond startup you may have worn rings which allows compression blowby .
I premix since my oil tank cracked and since it 100% sure bet and I use 50 to 1 which is 3 ozs per gallon .
Remove and clean the sparkplug as it may have carbon build up . Running at low RPMs will also cause carbon build up on the top of the piston , head and in the exhaust , so wind it up sometimes .
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 22:23:50 GMT -5
Is it a 50cc ? Mine came with 6g rollers but I mixed up 3 4g and 3 6g to equal 5g . Most run 4g or 5g on a 50cc 2T . You can get clutch springs that are 1k , 1.5k and 2k which engage at their rating above the RPMs of the stock springs to help on take off . You may need a stiffer contra ( also called torque spring ) which is under the clutch assembly .
Are you sure you have the right size belt ? The wider it is the more top end you will have .
I tried a racing pipe with no baffle and lost bottom end since lack of back pressure but it had more top RPM power and was as loud as a YZ 80 .
How many miles are on it ? Have you done a compression test ? It should be over 120 PSI and if less than that you may need new rings or rings and piston since aluminum is so soft it wears easy . Also get new gaskets if you rebuild it .
What size MM is your carb ? Many come with a 13 to 17.5MM but I was lucky mine came with a 19mm TK carb with a 68 MJ . I replaced it with a 75MJ and it was better . I was running a 120 with the racing pipe and Uni air filter but I went back to the stock pipe and a 110 MJ .
A NGK iridium sparkplug will fire and run better than a standard plug . Not necessary go faster but run better and not as prone to getting fouled by oil build up . A new plug can do wonders .
Follow the sparkplug wire as it is connected to the coil . My stock unit the boot was a that would come off and eventually fizzled . I bought the orange performance coil from ScrappyDog and it runs waaaaaaaay better , has a better boot and has not came off a single time . I did have to widen up the mounting bracket just a hair to line up both holes .
I put on a blue racing CDI from PFS when mine was new and still 49cc and it did have a hair better takeoff from an advanced timing curve but still topped out at 8k RPMs and would sputter if I went above that downhill . It is better made with a finned aluminum body instead of plastic . It did not have a mount hole like the stock one so I used a zip tie pulled tight with pliers to hold it in place . My CDI was between the seat bucket and body panel on the right side and a 5 pin type . I know some Adleys have it in the battery tray but unsure on Peugeot
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 21:54:50 GMT -5
If she uses an open face style helmet get some wrap around eye glasses ..
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 21:50:15 GMT -5
I have extended under and noninsurance coverage , road side assistance , med pay , which pays for the ER should I wreck up to 10k , for 145 a year from Progressive . Normally it was 89 dollars for just liability . RA is a deal at only 10 a year with no having to pay and wait to get a refund like with AAA . You can also get PIP personal injury protection as well .
If there is a motorcycle training class in your area I suggest taking it since she is a noob and may reduce your premium costs .
Make sure to get a GOOD helmet , gloves and boots too !
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 21:45:23 GMT -5
Rocky great video but let me ride that crotch rocket and the it would have a different outcome . In the book " Scooters For Idiots " it said HD was the first to use plastic and fiberglass on a scooter as Vespa and Cushmans were metal bodies . To my knowledge they were 2Ts . I would love to see a HD scooter with a v twin 50 or 100cc thumper  |
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 2, 2014 21:38:58 GMT -5
Sweet ! I too will be installing a Koso variator on my 2T in a couple of weeks as the stock one is small and myt Bando Kevlar belt is eating up . I also finally found a 788 ( 18.1) xx belt by Gates which is wider than my 788 17 30 Bando .
Get Dr Pulley sliders and see how much better they perform than rollers
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Post by skuttadawg on Jun 4, 2014 1:22:59 GMT -5
Here is some handy tips tips A repair manual that you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader or at least the plug in Adobe look on far right at the bottom of page . Here is the repair manual manual |
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Post by skuttadawg on Jun 4, 2014 1:10:38 GMT -5
What size are your tires ? My Echarm has 16s and I am 200 and have had people bigger than me on back with no issues . Yes if you upgrade your rear shocks to nitrogen type instead of oil they handle ride better and handle the extra weight . I upgraded my tires to Michelins and those bad boys can hold up to 630 lbs each . You can over stress the frame bushings by exceded the weight limitation if is stamped on it or in the manual . My scooter dealer told me about a customer who was a really heavy guy and only rode his 50cc around campus at college and the bushing gave out and bent the single rear shock . I have seen a few on scoots with 10 inch wheels and the rear suspension and tire was sagging . This is a very bad idea to do . Maybe a short ride around the block , but not on the streets . I have ridden a few on my old scoot that had 10s and it was not so stable and it put some wear on the rear tire , belt and clutch . With 16s on my Echarm it is to me like a crossover between a scooter and a motorcycle . To me a scooter should have " doughnuts " which means tires that are wide and 12, 13 or 14 inch wheels . The Echarm has wimpy dual rear shocks so I adjusted the spring dampening to the firmest setting . I replaced the stock ChengShin tires with Shinkos and it was such an improvement . My other scooter has 13s and a mono rear shock . I had ridden several pileons , but not as many or for as long of distance as I have on my Ecxharm . I have ridden boocoos of passenger miles on it . Back to the 13s , the stock tires seemed ok , and suspension too but it was a load on the engine when it was 50cc . After a 47mm or 70cc BBK it had plenty of power to carry a pileon up hill with a running start . With the Michelin PureSport SCs wow an amazing improvement in every category . I bought my Michelins here tires for the same price as generics in town with free shipping . Since you have a Ruckus clone and if anyone who knows for sure it Honda Ruckus suspension parts will fit here is a link to some parts but they are pricey Ruckus partsI have a buddy who has a Honda Ruckus who is bigger than me but added on a windshield , huge saddle bags , a bag up front and a tool box on back with no problems , other than slow since it is bone stock . He has ridden a couple of passengers but only a very short distance at a time . |
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