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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 22, 2017 18:15:14 GMT -5
That (the squealing) speaks to a car horribly out of alignment and with more problems than just cheap tires on it. Its even possible the tire dealer was a shady one and sold you old out of date tires that were cheap because he picked them up from a lot sent to be recycled.... I'm pretty sure it wasn't alignment 'cause I could feel the slipping as I turned. I remember it startled the heck outta me first few times 'cause I hadn't realized I was going so fast. Then I started paying attention to my speed. I *wasn't* going that fast. >'Kat i agree with rocky, it certainly seems like a front end alignment problem |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 14, 2017 10:12:22 GMT -5
in my opinion, the only reason to run high octane in your scoot would be to prevent preignition and/or dieseling.
83 octane will be just fine if you aren't experiencing the above symptoms.
i've run both grades in my scoot, and the higher octane seemed to give a slightly better performance, but i usually stuck with the lowest grade available (not sure if it was 83 or not).
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 9, 2017 4:38:09 GMT -5
my guess is that you have AC headlights (my 50cc did)
it's likely that the 150 produces more AC output that the original 50 cc engine did.
solution:
get 12v headlights and run them from the battery, or purchase AC headlights made for your 150
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 7, 2017 11:18:21 GMT -5
i may have been looking at the wrong bike.
the bike i looked at was in the roadrunner.travel link.
it appeared to be in an apartment building parking lot, i've never seen "visitors" stenciled in a dealership lot.
plus, i'm positive you would offer any buyer a test ride.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 7, 2017 8:17:38 GMT -5
CDIs come in 2 flavors, AC and DC.
these 2 types cannot be interchanged.
another possibility is a defective or grounded pulse pickup.
yet another possibility is a defective ignition switch, this can keep the pulse pickup grounded if it's defective.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 4, 2017 18:42:46 GMT -5
you only have 2 of them, sudden air loss in either of them would be unnerving to say the least.
i hear similar things about putting inner tubes in tubeless tires.
some say aye, some say nay.
if you really want to talk about unsafe, then what about semi recaps?
i can't imagine what it would feel like to see a big chunk of that crap snaking its way right at me on a bike.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 4, 2017 7:27:10 GMT -5
I keep my bikes generally in as new condition ,,, some people are more fastidious about clean than other i'm not talking about clean, i'm talking about damage caused by the tires throwing rocks. you can't "clean" rock damage. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 2, 2017 9:35:52 GMT -5
that is one fine looking bike, and a 500cc automatic to boot.
but i'll be honest here.
i'm suspicious about a 10 year old bike with 18,000+ miles on it that shows no road grime damage above the tires.
i may be 100% wrong about this, but i find such a scenario impossible to believe.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jun 1, 2017 15:28:38 GMT -5
the first thing i would do is check to make sure that it wasn't stolen.
the next thing i would do is to take it to a reputable motorcycle person to make sure the frame hasn't been broken and rewelded, or bent and straightened
the rough idle could be as simple as a inferior sparkplug.
one curious thing i noticed was the rusted cooling fins while the rest of the engine appears to be aluminum.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 27, 2017 20:03:35 GMT -5
i also believe that you can't get something for nothing.
you aren't increasing the power output of the engine by altering the gear ratio.
IOW, you are going to have to sacrifice torque for speed.
- my opinion.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 27, 2017 19:39:33 GMT -5
OK changing belt and counted clutch 8.3 turns to 1 on tire. Any guess as to what gears my be behind the cover? . i'm not sure what you are asking here, but there are 3 shafts of gears in my ride. 1. the clutch shaft with 1 gear milled on the end. 2. the rear wheel shaft with 1 gear milled on the end. (see edit below) 3. a counter shaft with 2 gears, one engaging the clutch shaft, and a larger gear engaging the wheel shaft. there may also be shims on the countershaft gear, and these must go back where they came from. the countershaft gear can be separated into 2 gears, and i would imagine that either the large gear and the wheel shaft needs to be changed or the small gear and the clutch shaft needs changed. i've never altered the gear ratio of my ride, so i wouldn't really know what would be involved, but i have replaced final drive components so i DO know what's inside the final drive. my best guess would be the large countershaft gear and the wheel axle will need to be replaced to alter the gear ratio. if the tolerances aren't too close then this isn't going to be hard, but if they are, you might have some problems separating the 2 countershaft gears. EDIT EDIT EDIT: i'm not rewriting the above, but i just remembered that the wheel axle gear is a press fit instead of milled. this would imply that the large countershaft gear and the wheel gear would be changed to alter the gear ratio. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 24, 2017 23:02:41 GMT -5
Still got the autochoke from the old carb? Two screws, swap it out, and try it. Theyre pretty universal. Ive had new ones faulty from factory before myself. the above may be true for a 50cc, but for my 244, autochokes come in 2 flavors, 12VDC, and the one that runs off the stator. these 2 autochokes cannot be interchanged. sure, they look alike, and even fit. but interchanging a stator model with a 12 volt model will soon burn out the 12 volt model. my solution was to gut one of the burned out chokes and render it inoperable in the no choke position and then reinstall it. i manually choked the engine with my left hand over the airbox intake. i had no problems starting the engine in temps as low as 45F or so, i never tried it in lower temps because i rarely rode when it was colder than about 45F. like i said, the above might not apply to a 50cc. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 24, 2017 20:40:22 GMT -5
you mentioned gears in one of your posts.
do you mean the final drive gears?
if so, where are you going to get custom gears?
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 21, 2017 19:28:31 GMT -5
If you buy a new scooter, or even just a 'new to you' one...first thing on the agenda is to perform a comprehensive PDI, which includes, as cyborg suggested, a valve clearance check. i have to second that, and it's a time consuming process (PDI) when done properly. another thing to remember is, these chinese scoots don't seemed to be designed, they seem to be copys of whats already out there. my 250 was an excellent example of that. yeah, once i got the bugs out of mine, it was a sheer joy to ride, and i rode it hard. you know you are leaning when you hear the centerstand scrape the pavement my number one "no start" scenario was electrically caused, not mechanical. give the electrics a thorough going over, making sure each connection is solid. i just couldn't deal with it so i rewired the scoot using direct crimp on connections. i kept the OEM connectors for the CDI, pulse pickup, and regulator. anyway, yeah, there is probably a PDI thread here on the site somewhere. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 20, 2017 18:26:49 GMT -5
this might be a possibility, but the OP said the scoot ran fine until he put a new carb and airbox on. i don't have much experience with 50cc carbs, i have a 250. |
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