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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 19, 2017 20:26:32 GMT -5
Youre thinking of the slide diaphram which uses pressure. Extra weight here wont matter much. yes, i'm talking about the main jet slide diaphram. i have to disagree with the added weight though. i'm pretty sure if you add weight to the diaphram, scooter performance will suffer. add enough weight and it won't open at all. the question is, how much is too much, especially for a temporary fix. that is something i can't answer. i've had my carb apart a few times and i didn't run across an accelerator pump. it had an air cutoff valve that eliminated backfires on closed throttle and an "enrichener" (choke). i had a 250 though. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 19, 2017 12:26:29 GMT -5
it definitely sounds like the carb.
i would check to see if the float works properly, and that the slide moves up and down freely and smoothly.
also, there should be about 1/4" play in the throttle when closed.
i would also check the fuel valve.
if your tank is higher than the carb, you might be able to use a manual shutoff valve.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 18, 2017 9:08:21 GMT -5
if the scoot was running good before the parts replacement then do the following:
replace all of the new parts with the old ones.
then replace one old part at a time.
i would start with the carb.
it also sounds like your valves might be out of adjustment.
but you said the scoot ran perfectly before the parts replacement.
another thing to be aware of, loose electrical connections.
while removing/ replacing parts, some of these connections might have been jostled around and they got loose.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 17, 2017 15:49:32 GMT -5
my diaphram resembled the type of rubber used in faucet washers, neoprene.
remember, air pressure makes this thing work, so whatever method you use, try NOT to add any excess weight to the diaphram.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 16, 2017 23:54:23 GMT -5
it all depends on how bad the hole/tear is.
if it's a tiny hole, then a drop of rubber patch glue might work for you.
i would try patching it with just glue if i could, and just enough to get a seal.
when replacing the diaphram, seat the bead in the groove, install cover, install screws but only tighten them halfway.
push up all the way on the diaphram, while holding diaphram up finish tightening the cover screws.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 15, 2017 21:57:30 GMT -5
the thing about OEM jetting is, it's made with the idea that the stock airbox and muffler will be installed.
also, the type of carb used makes it hard to use lessons learned from car type of carbs.
a car type of carb will typically need rejetting at higher altitudes whereas a scooter type of carb might not.
i never messed around with the jetting on my ride.
it came with a uni filter, but i switched to a stock airbox when the filter element began falling apart.
the bike seemed to run and sound better after the switch.
but wheelbender is right, i can't think of a more perfect thing than a chinese scooter when it comes to learning how scooters work.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 15, 2017 21:44:34 GMT -5
If none of your friends and family are mechanically inclined, your only option is to learn the hard way and screw up a few things. A China scooter is great for that, since replacement parts are affordable. -With our help, the newbies will get the hang of it instead of giving up on the hobby. -I am just happy when I see a young (or older) guy that is willing to pick up a wrench and try something. there ya go. i hardly knew what a "scooter" was when i bought my 50cc, much less knowing anything about how they worked. then i got my 250cc. everything i know about scooters i owe to that bike and sites like this. actually, my 250 was pretty simple mechanically. at least i could service the tranny, and that isn't easy on a car. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 14, 2017 9:55:30 GMT -5
So what I want to tell you is DO NOT MOD your scooter! I was SO pissed at myself. It ran totally perfect before. All I really wanted was quicker acceleration and I could have totally taken care of that with rollers, springs and clutch... a great lesson for all the newbies. altering the jet size is a little more complicated than simply replacing the old with the new. i don't recommend it at all unless you plan on getting a big bore rebuild kit. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 9, 2017 9:54:15 GMT -5
Sounds like operator error to me. it was, and it's called failure to follow the shop manual. the '  -'  elite manual i have calls for the valves to be adjusted cold (ambient<95F) on a non running engine. the '89 manual i found online makes no mention of the running method. i haven't been able to find any official word from honda motors regarding the running method. i know this, if a manufacturer says to do something in the manual like adjust the valves on a cold no running engine, and you decide to adjust them while it's running, then said manufacturer is not under any obligation to fix any damage cause by your mcgyveresque procedures. like i said, the ' -' elite manual makes no mention of the running method, nor does the later '89 manual. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 6, 2017 16:26:31 GMT -5
i would imagine that such things as "balancing beads" and "fix a flat" can have detrimental effects when plugging tires.
i'm not sure about MC tires but it's inadvisable to plug sidewall punctures on car tires.
one thing to remember, a blowout on your car can be scary, but you only have 2 tires on a MC, and a blowout on either of them at highway speeds will most likely result in severe physical injury.
BTW, i've driven cars for many miles on plugged tires with no problems.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 6, 2017 11:48:57 GMT -5
be advised that i have tried the running method.
my exhaust adjuster now flops from one end of travel to the other with NO resistance.
it's your engine, you can do whatever you want with it.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 6, 2017 8:03:37 GMT -5
If either valve is open, you already screwed up. The rope trick works fine...when done correctly! i tend to agree with rocky on this one. you will be introducing a lot of foreign debris into your combustion chamber. a bent valve is a definite possibility. this reminds me of those videos you see on how you can adjust the valves on a 244cc while it's running. DO NOT try this, it WILL screw up your adjusters, i know, been there done that. the shop manual for the 244 calls for adjusting the valves cold on a engine that isn't running. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 5, 2017 10:47:41 GMT -5
I suppose one could use a oil filter wrench or even your leather belt to hold the Vari, I just bump mine with a impact, that maybe Not the thing to do if one has Never had any experience with a impact. i tried an oil filter wrench, didn't work. the variator on my ride had little vans around the outside circumference, not the cooling vanes on the outside face. the design of my CVT case allowed me to fashion a wedge of hard rubber to hold the variator. another thing i noticed was that 2 variator halves, vane to vane, interlocked perfectly. an old variator vane half can serve as a holding tool if the center hole is bored out to accept the socket, and a handle attached. another thing, i didn't torque the nut. i got it as tight as i could with just my hands, then gave the wrench handle 5 or 6 whacks with a hammer. no thread lockers either, but i GOTTA remember that zip tie trick. that one deserves a bone. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 5, 2017 9:39:39 GMT -5
about the rope thing, it's simply not the right thing to do.
the rope wraps around one of the open valves, holding it open.
the piston moves up.
one of the following will happen:
1. due to close tolorances the valve punctures the piston.
2. the valves doesn't puncture the piston but warps the valve stem instead.
3. god comes along, issues a miracle, and you are able to complete the task with no ill effects.
also, do not try the screwdriver in the variator fins trick either.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 4, 2017 11:02:48 GMT -5
 Ive been running this Ankle Biter set-up since last September. I have encountered no such "O" rings on my 150 Vari's, there simply nothing to keep the grease in the Vari. my 244cc certainly had one, and without an o-ring, it's very likely a variator WILL sling grease. oh . . my . . . god. reminds me of my rear axle nut coming loose. i had the socket, but i left the breaker bar at home. i managed to get it tight enough to get home with the socket and pair of pliers. it's a miracle i didn't lose the nut. but yeah, that zip tie trick is pretty neat. melting the tie into the threads would also serve as a thread locker. i gotta give ya a +1 for that one. |
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elite manual i have calls for the valves to be adjusted cold (ambient<95F) on a non running engine.