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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 4, 2017 9:10:25 GMT -5
why no grease? i literally slathered the inside of the variator with grease. I tried that on my OE vary when I was tuning it, all it did was throw grease all over, get on the belt and Glazed it up real good. ended up getting the grease on the Clutch pads, threw the belt away and had a mess to clean up. I knew better but tried it anyway. i put almost 10,000 miles on 3 different variators, and none of them slung grease. even after multiple removals of the cover plate, the o-ring still sealed the variator. if i remember correctly, honda calls for 4 ounces of grease in one of its variators, and that much grease completely filled mine. so i tried it. i never did experience a grease slinging variator. i would imagine that you used a type of grease that liquifies too easily. this would allow it to drip out from the top when not running. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 4, 2017 8:09:09 GMT -5
why no grease?
i literally slathered the inside of the variator with grease.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 4, 2017 2:29:33 GMT -5
well, regardless of what rocky said, it just seems obvious to me that squishing a rope against an open valve, is going to bend the valve stem.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 3, 2017 21:37:43 GMT -5
Very Nice! Thank you for your Continued Honesty.  i'll never own a manual chain drive motorcycle, but that doesn't mean i don't admire them. and most associate the looks of the bike with a 50cc, not realizing it's a 250. most of the people that seen it called it a moped. they did a double take when i told them it would hit 70MPH and gets 52 miles to the gallon. it was probably closer to 75MPH with the 22 gram rollers i was using. the laws in my state disallow moped riders if they have been convicted of a DUI. IOW, you lose your right to ride a moped when you lost your license. no matter if it was a 50cc or less. i remember rolling up to a red light on my 50cc looking 250. this guy in the left lane starts to roll down the window. just as he was sticking his head out to say something, i gave the throttle a quick twist. i can still see that look of stunned amazement. he expected a chainsaw but got the throaty sound of a header. hilarious. mine started with "can i take it for a test ride?" |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 2, 2017 23:14:27 GMT -5
My Title states MC, My Registration States MC and my Plate States MC but in the end its a Scooter and so is yours, lets Not get in a Silly/Discussion of the Definition of what a True MC is and a Scooter is. It is what it is...... I love my Scooter and MC for what they are. scooter sounds so unappealing though, and "twist and go step through design" is too much of a mouthful. and they really aren't a motorcycle, only because motorcycles deserve their own place. so scooter it must be, although i need a MC endorsement to ride it. i don't know, i think a 300 to 350cc would be all i would ever need on a bike. even my 244cc was nothing less than a sheer thrill ride. and to think, my encounter with a chinese 50cc started it all. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 2, 2017 9:04:08 GMT -5
Its is a cheat or a gamble at best which you do at your own risk and don't reccomend to others without stating the risks. it just seems obvious to me that when you squish a rope in your firing chamber, and the rope gets hung around the valves, yeah, i suppose it could get bad. my variator had little fins around the outer circumference which made it pretty easy to fashion a "door stop" type of tool out of a hard piece of rubber. also, i used to hear about putting "thread locker" on bolts and such. i have my doubts about this with aluminum engines. the gaskets used on these scoots seems to be easily removed. in this respect, an aluminum engine requires more TLC than the same sized steel one. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 2, 2017 2:41:33 GMT -5
First have you ever owned a MC? my chinese 250 is a MC, so yes, i own a MC. if you are talking about a manual shift chain drive type of MC, no, and i doubt if i ever will. the question is, is this a symptom of poor design or a symptom of inferior quality. my guess is it's the inferior quality of the parts. this is a good example of poor design. i believe making the CVT a part of the carb intake will eliminate this type of problem. again, is this a symptom of poor quality, or poor design, or maybe even poor maintenance. flat spots on rollers do seem to be a problem, albeit a minor one. my scooter didn't like moisture, at all. if it even smelled like rain my scooter wouldn't start. the electrics was the cause before i revamped the electrics, even the moisture thrown up by the tires (no matter how minor) would kill the engine. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on May 1, 2017 19:53:50 GMT -5
the thing about DIY in regards to airflow, are you taking advantage of natural airflow.
for example what is the airflow like underneath a car?
it would seem the air should flow one way, but due to certain designs, the airflow is actually opposite.
yes, i know we aren't talking about a car.
but the same thing applies to chinese scooters because of body plastics.
the only thing i can say is, go with what works, trial and error my man.
BTW, radio shack sells a 6 inch, 12VDC, brushless "computer fan"
it doesn't seem to be very weather proof though.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Apr 30, 2017 18:54:03 GMT -5
it certainly seems that the CVT tranny wins in the maintainance dept.
i need to make a correction here.
i mentioned earlier you don't need any tools to replace a CVT belt if the CVT didn't have a cover.
that's just plain wrong.
you need the tools to remove the variator.
not only do you need the socket for the crank nut, but you also nee a "tool" to hold the variator.
i read an interesting solution somewhere, and it went like this:
remove the sparkplug.
get a 2 or 3 foot piece of rope.
start stuffing it into the plug hole.
this will prevent the piston from going past TCD.
i've never tried this, so i can't vouch for if it works.
for example, can this bend the valve stems?
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Apr 28, 2017 5:34:34 GMT -5
I lubed the chain every 200 miles in daily use and did several 500 mile days with zero issues. i assume you are talking about 8 to 12 hours of nonstop riding. talk about your iron butt awards . . . |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Apr 28, 2017 5:26:29 GMT -5
Riders cope by waxing the chains instead of oiling them, going to double o-rings instead of single, cooking them in a pot on the stove to get the oil grease out and suck the new in as the pot and chain cools. There always seems to be some new wiz bang cleaning system being hawked to help deal with the issue too. i've heard quite a bit about the pros and cons of oiling chains. one side seems to think it's the natural thing to do, while the other side says oil and grease picks up all kinds of dust and debris which turns the oil into a scouring paste. waxing would seem to be the best option, but it too turns to liquid and you are right back to the problem above. i wonder if there could be chains made out of teflon or some similar material. this is one of the things i liked the best about my chinese ride, its mechanical simplicity. you could dismantle the entire bike with a hand full of tools weighing roughly 5 to 10 pounds. another interesting point. its been said 2 pairs of shoes being worn alternately will outlast the same 2 pair if worn one after the other. does this mean that 2 belts rated at 10,000 miles will last 30,000 if swapped out every 1,000 or so miles? this is a very simple job with a CVT, and if the CVT doesn't have a cover, requires no tools. i've given this some thought in regards to my overheating problem and i came up with the following but never tried it: i was thinking about making the CVT a part of the carb intake. ducting the carb intake to the CVT and let the engine itself pull air through the CVT, but i couldn't figure out how to connect the air filter to the CVT. not to mention crushing the variator oil seals. this isn't as easy as it sounds. first, the bearings are deep inside the clutch, too deep for your fingers. second, grease is fatal to friction surfaces such as clutch pads, and too much grease will be slung out. i found that a popsicle stick works to massage the grease into the needles. and it needs to be the type of grease that stays where you put it a really great post rocky. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Apr 27, 2017 14:53:12 GMT -5
i haven't had a belt failure on my ride, even after 10,000 miles.
the OEM was starting to show signs of failure at around 7,000 miles (pieces were starting to flake off the outer surface) but i replaced it before it failed.
there seems to be some kind of fabric interwoven with steel strands on the outside of the belt covered with a layer of rubber, and this fabric started to shred.
these steel strands breaking is what probably destroys most belts when they fail.
i would imagine a kevlar belt would outlast a "steel/fabric" belt under the same conditions.
these steel strands is probably responsible for the "grooves" in the variator.
i blame the particular design of my CVT case for the above because there wasn't enough clearance between the case and the variator.
the belt rode so high in the pulleys it (the case) shaved off one edge of the belt which led to the steel fabric breaking.
the OEM belt was the 1000mm outside circumference
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Apr 26, 2017 22:28:37 GMT -5
i don't know man, after i got all the bugs out of my chinese ride, it was pretty dependable.
the number one problem with it was the electrics.
before i ironed that out, i was never sure it would start, or it was likely that it would die somewhere between here and there.
after i revamped the electrics, it never failed to start and i could ride it all day with no problems.
it also had a overheating problem, but i managed to solve that too.
i would certainly get another for the price i gave for mine, 1000 bucks with 82 miles on it.
the guy apparently sold it because the fuel valve prevented WOT.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Apr 26, 2017 4:10:05 GMT -5
i agree with wheelbender.
a dual range CVT would be a perfect match for a scooter
this would allow you to use lighter weights for great acceleration, but yet would allow you to have a great top end.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Apr 25, 2017 20:48:55 GMT -5
the service manual i've been referencing is: elite CH250 '  - '  service manual. my engine was indeed manufactured by cfmoto and was of very good quality. the only difference i found was the countershaft bearings, but then again i never completely disassembled my engine. the variator on my ride had the cfmoto logo and CN250 stamped on it. |
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service manual.